sbelyo Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 My hairless cat sits next to my 2 channel dgardner build for the radiating heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Sawyers Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 How did you manage to shave it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbelyo Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Hah... she’d never let me do that https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphynx_catSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penmarker Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) Loving this out the balanced as its intended but because my chassis is very cramped the transformer is inducing a lot of hum. Tried removing the boards from the chassis away from the tranny and it was silent as balanced. Looking as how it is, I cannot fit a tranny can over it. Distance between tranny and the boards' reservoir caps are only a few mm apart. I think my next project is to get another PSU board and chassis and house them separately. I guess the transformer is too OP at 160VA. Gain with the gain resistors at 51k is just the sweet spot for me. Volume knob on my DAC pre out is about halfway for my listening volume. Can go very loud real easy with this gain setting. *edit: Does anyone experience sibilance or slight roughness in the treble? I'm comparing it with my Matrix Mini-i headphone out and it sounds a little rougher in the treble region. Edited April 4, 2018 by penmarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbelyo Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 10 hours ago, penmarker said: Loving this out the balanced as its intended but because my chassis is very cramped the transformer is inducing a lot of hum. Tried removing the boards from the chassis away from the tranny and it was silent as balanced. Looking as how it is, I cannot fit a tranny can over it. Distance between tranny and the boards' reservoir caps are only a few mm apart. Can you get some grain oriented steel and wrap it around the transformer. That's what I did with my 2 channel build in one box. It reduced the hum to almost nothing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penmarker Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 Been up all night coming up with the proof of concept. Moved the transformer out into a wood tidbits box and hum disappeared completely. Monday I'll go look for a proper project box and connectors+cable for it. Very happy. But my R channel THAT340 is also noisy like some of you. Started to develop around yesterday night. Kinda thinking about the converter boards now but the matched or buying a lot of LSJ/LSK for matching is so expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 If you buy the duals in the linear devices, you can just go with what you get. The 2 devices in package are matched pretty well, and Kevin said that CCS will take care of the N-P differences you have. The ones I bought from trendsetter (LSK489/LSJ689) weren't too bad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penmarker Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) Hey that is great, I guess I missed those devices. One question, how accurate are these cheap DMMs with thermocouple type k? My Dynahi reads 55°C at the heatsink wall closest to the output devices (not the fins). Manual says Its resolution is 1°C, and accuracy of 5% rdg + 4 dgt. *Edit: added picture Edited April 8, 2018 by penmarker Added picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skooby Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) 55C sounds about right (forgot what was my bias). My Dynahi runs at about the same temp after 30 min (measured via an IR-based meter, a few degs off here and there is not a big deal). Have you checked with Steve about where he got his tranny shieldings? I run with Anteks and they seem to shield adequately. Single-box saves quite a bit of space; if run two boxes, do consider umbilical resistance. Edited April 8, 2018 by Skooby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jose Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Change the THAT340 for 2SK170/2SJ74. Yes, it's expensive but it's worth it and this amplifier deserves it You have Linear on DIYAstore or you can search some member that have Toshibas. I think that 55º is right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti5002000 Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 i have been using for the input of my dynalo some 2sa1349/2cs3381,that i bought from Justin at a very good price. Even with no matching,they are working very well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 i have been using for the input of my dynalo some 2sa1349/2cs3381,that i bought from Justin at a very good price. Even with no matching,they are working very well Yes, those would work nicely as well. Just be careful in that even though these share the same 7-pin package as the 2SJ109/2Sk389 Toshiba JFETs, they are not pin compatible. Therefore, a THAT340 adapter made for one will not work for the other. 2SA1349/2SC3381: BCE-ECB2SJ109/2SK389: DGS-SGD Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti5002000 Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 I am using an adapter that Kevin made specially for them ,so it´s ok . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penmarker Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 (edited) Thanks everyone. I decided to get a set of adapter boards from the group buy. I'll try to get my hands on all the various devices available, especially LSK489/LSJ689. Nelson Pass seem to love using 2SK170/2SJ74 in his designs so I hope those will be great too. Minor update, yesterday during lunchtime I went to the electronics store and got some project box with the fittings and cables, etc. Rehoused my transformers for the amp and channel switcher in it. The wooden box is too soft, like balsa wood. Still haven't drilled the front panel for the jacks and knobs. Busy moving to a new house now so will buy a bench drill after the dust settles. Edited April 11, 2018 by penmarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirko Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 Hi guys, quick question; what´s the current draw of the VAS transistors on the dynahi? Measuring the R17-R20 resistors gives me 4,6V (15mA). Is this the correct value? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penmarker Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Is there a probably some sort of hierarchy from best to less when it comes to THAT340, 2SK170/2SJ74, 2SA1349/2SC3381, 2SJ109/2SK389, and LSK489/LSJ689? Do they influence a lot or are the differences between each other minimal/negligible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 I prefer the FETs (170/74, 109/389 and 489/689), but it isn’t a night and day difference. The offset will be lower with them. For the 3 Dynalo minis that I built, 2 of them used 489/689 FETs and one used THAT340. I haven’t listened to them extensively, but didn’t notice huge differences. The FET boards were easier to bias and seem a bit more stable.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 I tossed together a BOM for the SS Balanced Dynahi using the PZTA SMD transistors, MJE15030/15031 outputs. It is missing connectors, etc. but looking at the v1.5 gerber file (ssdynahibalsmt.zip), it matches the board (I think) SS Balanced Dynahi BOM.xlsx 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penmarker Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 (edited) Goddamn sorry wrong post and wrong thread. Edited September 7, 2018 by penmarker my mistake sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbelyo Posted December 12, 2018 Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 I need to make sure what resistors are the feedback for gain. Are they the 10K or 200K on either side of the input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 R52/R53 and R56/R57 (200K/10K) dynahibalbjt.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jose Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 And 2pF cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbelyo Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 On 10/21/2012 at 2:32 PM, sbelyo said: Balanced gain will be 10 by changing R52, R56 to 50K and C1, C3 to 5 pf. Got it... Thanks for the schematic Chris. It's the 200K resistors. The cap has to increase to 5 pf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joehpj Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Made some multi-coated front panel recently. This is a small project @ang728 and I ran together. This is our first attempt to try multi-coated for the front panels. I don't know if this kind of finishing will start to peel off in longterm. We'll see. We are thinking making more interesting colors, too. Maybe "Hulk" green or something like that... The blue one has tapered feet while the red one has real spiked feet. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumina Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 superb that are some nice amps :-), well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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