jose Posted February 10, 2015 Report Posted February 10, 2015 What's the project we can peek at the lower left corner of your picture ? At that time I was working on the Krell clone. Quote
GrindingThud Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 Foo! Mistakenly swapped +/- on one of my boards... Fortunately I caught it quick and only the opamp and 7915 smoked. Was a slow day so I decided to do some chassis work and biasing. Quote
Pars Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 One reason I never use those terminal blocks, much preferring these Quote
nopants Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 if you use molex connectors is it possible to make cables without a crimper or some other specialty tool? Quote
luvdunhill Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 if you use molex connectors is it possible to make cables without a crimper or some other specialty tool? Yes. Quote
UFN Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 Not much experience with Molex, but I have used equivalent JSTs quite a bit (VH, XH, PH types etc.). With a bit of care then they are quite easy to solder (as long as you have something that can hold the connector) and a needle-nose plier is then all that is needed to shape the connector to fit in the housing. However, cripting is still a bit easier so on a trip to Japan last year I bought one of these. That will crimp most of these connectors without the need for a dedicated tool per type. Quality is quite good although I can't comment on how long it will last. //UFN Quote
GrindingThud Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 I have those for my pinball machine boards. I might try those on my next build. One reason I never use those terminal blocks, much preferring these Quote
Pars Posted March 1, 2015 Report Posted March 1, 2015 I usually crimp with something similar to what UFN posted, shape with needle nose pliers, check the fit, then solder them. Once done, with the keyed housings, it is impossible to fuck up when plugging in. Of course if you use 3 pin for both power and signal or something else, you need to watch that or mark them somehow. Quote
mahdi8 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 Hi All, I'm new to Dynahi and hope to learn a lot from here. My last amp built was the bottlehead crack with speedball add on. I've recently purchased a prepopulated balanced Dynahi board with 2 sigma22 power supply. It's never been powered on so I'm trying to find where is the reference of voltage check measurement for the board? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've been reading the thread but couldn't find it. I might missed it. the board I'm getting is from this design http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/dynahibalbjt.PDF Quote
Pars Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 Try posts 312, 315 and 319 and around that area. You do realize that a single balanced dynahi board is 1 channel (+ and -)? Hope you got two boards... Quote
mahdi8 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 Thanks parse I'll check those post out. Yes you're right its 2 amp board and 2 power supply board Quote
kevin gilmore Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 because I'm being picked on elsewhere for using obsolete components... surface mount versions of the dynahi in the boards directory. smt pzta56 and pzta06 replace mpsw06 mpsw56 ssdynahibalsmt.zip ssdynahibalsmth.zip second one is on board heatsinks 2 Quote
mahdi8 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 Oh no a new board when mine is not finished yet Quote
mahdi8 Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 Looking for a case Idea. What do you guys think putting the Dynahi Balanced in a well ventilated acrylic case? is it a bad idea? Looking for a budget way of making the case and acrylic seems to be the cheapest way since I know someone who has a laser cutter. Quote
kevin gilmore Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 there is no functional difference in the new boards, just for people without the mpsw parts probably lots more surface mount updates on everything else soon. the idea is 100% mouser available parts Quote
nopants Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 using modushop cases you should be able to find something that fits whether it's the offboard or onboard version Quote
kevin gilmore Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 new feature for the freaks over there that don't like square corners... all board files with "m" at the end have mitred corners. I don't see the difference, but it only takes a few seconds to convert. Quote
spritzer Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 Yeah, I'd love to hear about the influence of right angle traces at these frequencies. Seems a bit like Ray saying you need thicker wire for the bass molecules to get through... Quote
kevin gilmore Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 so far total length difference on the longest trace is .3 inches works out to about 100 picoseconds. if I was doing work in the 100mhz to 1ghz range, it would make a difference. Quote
spritzer Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 Yeah, my point exactly. 100kHz or less... not so much. Quote
kevin gilmore Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 wouldn't the bass molecules like longer wires? Quote
spritzer Posted April 11, 2015 Report Posted April 11, 2015 Sadly not, they bounce around the long wires and suffer impact damage as they hit other molecules which makes them smaller. It's a real problem... 1 Quote
G600 Posted April 11, 2015 Report Posted April 11, 2015 And as they are fat bottomed, they need larger wires too... Quote
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