mtoc Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 hi kg, any upadtes on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted March 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 (edited) Kerry was going to publish code soon Edited March 23, 2016 by kevin gilmore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtoc Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 will we get better result when using vishay resistors rated at .01% (some of them are 5 ppm, seems be the king)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 You'll get a tighter match to the ideal resistance curve of the attenuator. Whether it will be audible or not, doubtful. 0.1% should be good enough. Some might say using the naked Vishay s102/z102 would be the best (and most expensive), but I don't think these are available in surface mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 It's more important to use E96 series resistors than the tolerance levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtoc Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 On 2016/5/16 at 9:59 AM, luvdunhill said: It's more important to use E96 series resistors than the tolerance levels. Wow, why E96 is the key? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UFN Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Closest to the ideal values probably? //UFN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Exactly. I suppose you could parallel each position and calculate closest parallel equivalent, but yes - this is more important than 0.01% because in fact a 1% might randomly get you closer to then ideal value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) I've got my controller boards working pretty well now with the digital attenuators. I like the larger one because it has a really nice feel as you turn the volume knob (...yes I see it ). I went and added a USB input to the board itself, though this is really overkill - which is why I did it. Here I'm updated with the TX / RX LEDs blinking away. EDIT: I've got to do one more round of cleaning... Edited March 19, 2017 by Kerry 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted March 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 Outstanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 Great thing the usb port - makes life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) Here's the code. Just rename the PDF to Zip and expand it into a folder under your .../Documents/Arduino directory. The code works well now, though there are a few things I'd like to keep working on. It will drive one of the I2C 1" OLED displays. I typically comment this out at line 101 in the main program (EDIT since I don't use the display in the amp)... // If not using display just don't create it activeOLED = new OLED (128, 64,SSD1306); // I2C Display //activeOLED = new OLED (128, 64,SH1106, OLED_MOSI, OLED_CLK, OLED_DC, OLED_RESET, OLED_CS); // 1.3" SPI Display I'm happy to keep working on it. I can post the Gerber files as well at some point. VolumeController.pdf -> rename to VolumeController.zip EDIT: I just wanted to add a note that this will work on an Arduino UNO or Pro Mini. Pretty much anything with an Atmel 328P. Could probably support other chips as well. EDIT 2: This code will run the older and larger I2C boards (requires a slight code change) as well as version .4 and .5 of the current SPI boards. Edited March 19, 2017 by Kerry 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti5002000 Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi guys Does someone have boards that don't need and can sell it to me? They can be only the pcb and also can be already populated. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swt61 Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 On 3/19/2017 at 4:23 PM, Kerry said: I've got my controller boards working pretty well now with the digital attenuators. I like the larger one because it has a really nice feel as you turn the volume knob (...yes I see it ). I went and added a USB input to the board itself, though this is really overkill - which is why I did it. Here I'm updated with the TX / RX LEDs blinking away. EDIT: I've got to do one more round of cleaning... That is just all kinds of cool! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horio Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 7 hours ago, ti5002000 said: Hi guys Does someone have boards that don't need and can sell it to me? They can be only the pcb and also can be already populated. Thanks for the help I think I have a couple boards I could sell you. Send me a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 On 8/14/2017 at 7:11 AM, ti5002000 said: Hi guys Does someone have boards that don't need and can sell it to me? They can be only the pcb and also can be already populated. Thanks for the help You can check with @sorenb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti5002000 Posted August 24, 2017 Report Share Posted August 24, 2017 Thanks @cspirou i already talked with other forum member for that. Thanks for your help anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomislavkufrin Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 On 7/23/2015 at 10:59 PM, kevin gilmore said: for the V2 attenuator, there was one missing wire, will fix soon. fixed http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/attenuatorsmtv2.zip http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/attenuatorsmtv2.pdf i have a question. i have tried to get quote for this board, and when i have uploaded the gerber file, system detected 3 layers. i can choose between 2, 4, 6. if i were to use 2, what happens if this inner layer is discarded? or in case of 4 layer, i suppose this inner layer is then duplicated and then there are two 2-layer boards pressed together with same inner layer? thank you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 its a 2 layer board. not sure why it is being detected as 3 layers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 There is one layer labeled Inner 1 in the gerber files. attenuatorsmtv42flipground7 - CADCAM READ-ME.doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 that one is indeed 3 layers, extra complete ground layer in the middle. forgot about that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbelyo Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 Did anyone ever put this together with the selector boards that were run? I was looking at AMB's setup for volume and selecting sources but I seem to remember somebody saying that his attenuator won't work with the amps here. It would be cool to put this together with the SE/BAL to BAL/SE board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aive Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 On 6/6/2019 at 4:09 AM, sbelyo said: Did anyone ever put this together with the selector boards that were run? I was looking at AMB's setup for volume and selecting sources but I seem to remember somebody saying that his attenuator won't work with the amps here. It would be cool to put this together with the SE/BAL to BAL/SE board I got a set of two boards I’m planning to build soon - too many projects but this has come back on the radar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randytsuch Posted June 14, 2019 Report Share Posted June 14, 2019 Anyone still have boards? Decided I'd like to give this a try if I can get my hands on the boards. Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 On 6/14/2019 at 9:49 PM, randytsuch said: Decided I'd like to give this a try if I can get my hands on the boards. If you can't find spare boards then you could just add a 4th layer (like just duplicate the middle layer) then you could get new boards made quickly and cheaply at a place like https://oshpark.com Otherwise 3 layer is less commonly available and you might have to go to a more expensive PCB manufacturer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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