Recabling A K701

[elnero]

Thanks for the info guys, I'll pass it off and see what he says. I had forgot about the K702 having a detachable cable, that's probably why he's considered just going that route, it would certainly make future problems easier to deal with.

[mypasswordis]

Trying to fix a crappy headphone cable as well, and didn't figure it warranted a new thread because it's lame. I Deoxit'd the bits of the driver that needed Deoxiting... again, so the drivers measure what they're supposed to. And the plug solder joints are all good (measure 0 ohms) and the cable wires measure well enough (~2 ohms) except for the + on the right channel which measures anywhere from 20 ohms to 15k, so there must be a break in there somewhere. Anyone know of a good way of figuring out where exactly the break is? I've physically inspected the cable and there is only one small opening/cut on the cable but the wire that is "cut" is measuring fine.

[Craig Sawyers]

I wasn't really sure where to post this, a friend at work has a set of K701's whose cable has apparently crapped out, can anyone offer any advice on who he might contact to see about getting them recabled at a reasonable price?

Just latching onto this thread - but if your friend can phone international call Russ Andrews. They recable K701's with Kimber stuff. I have a pair with that cabling - and they do it themselves. Phone them on +44 1539 797302 which is John Armer's personal line and mention my name - I'm sure that they will tell you the secret methods of disassembling the beast.

[mypasswordis]

Trying to fix a crappy headphone cable as well, and didn't figure it warranted a new thread because it's lame. I Deoxit'd the bits of the driver that needed Deoxiting... again, so the drivers measure what they're supposed to. And the plug solder joints are all good (measure 0 ohms) and the cable wires measure well enough (~2 ohms) except for the + on the right channel which measures anywhere from 20 ohms to 15k, so there must be a break in there somewhere. Anyone know of a good way of figuring out where exactly the break is? I've physically inspected the cable and there is only one small opening/cut on the cable but the wire that is "cut" is measuring fine.

So I ended up just replacing the whole cable with an actual CAT5 cable since I'm too lazy to braid and heatshrink and sleeve and all that other crap. Terminated with 4 pin Neutrik XLR so I can't even listen to it yet until I make an adapter but it measures fine. 47.6 ohm left channel, 48.1 ohm right channel.

[Dusty Chalk]

I actually have an amp for that -- if I can find the power supply, we can try it out tomorrow. And I have an adapter, but it's at work, but if you remind me to bring it home (along with the Koss Pro 4AAAAAAAAAAAFonziAAAAAAAAA), you're welcome to look at both/either.

[mypasswordis]

Er, are you going to work tomorrow or are you at work right now (so I know when to remind you)? Or uh... I can like. Now remind you. *reminds*

wut

But yeah, I made the 4 pin XLR to 1/4" adapter so everything should be ready to be plugged in tomorrow. The CAT5 is a bit stiff though, I used solid core and all 8 conductors.

[mypasswordis]

Damn this one driver is trolling me hard. Was fine yesterday but not so much today. The diaphragm measures fine when I take it out of everything, and the brass rings measure fine. I screw almost everything in, everything is fine. I screw in the final screw, it measures ~1 ohm. Something must be in there that is conductive and touching the two brass rings, I can't think of any other reason. But I can't see anything there.

[Fitz]

What headphone is this? And the cat-5 cable simply will not do, I'll give you something better than that to use.

[mypasswordis]

Nah it's cool, I'm pretty used to doing things the ghetto way. Just trying to get this dang thing working for an upcoming meet.

Pics of the headphone, Concept CE-H