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Posted

For the moment, I will have to enter the KGSShv unbalanced (DAC asymetrical outputs only). Is there à way to go balanced before the quad pot : there are some active module with opamps but I'm à bit afraid of quality lost. Is there any advice ?

Posted

The DRV134 is a POS and causes far more issues than the slight loss you get with the natural phase splitting in the HV.  Just make a RCA-XLR cable with the - grounded. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Justin, any news on the 2SA1486's you were selling?

By the way, thank you for the SR-009 :)

 

i posted in the T2 thread.  i can get a good price on 'real' ones and i can get a better price on 'possibly real' ones.  i'm checking them out first.  most likely they will be fakes and i'll move on.

Posted

I am doing my build while living in the UK, but will move back to the US in a few years.  I am finalizing my transformer order (Sumr) and was considering getting a dual primary winding.  Is there any downside to having the dual windings?

Posted (edited)

Not that I am aware of. I always order dual primaries for any transformer (custom or other).

Edited by Pars
Posted (edited)

I always get dual windings as well. I can't see any downside to it.

Are you still using the latching switches from that computer case place Birgir? If not, what?

Well I bought a pile from them so I still have some but I also bought 50 more from Alibaba. I might have a problem with stockpiling stuff.... :D I also just ordered some PCB's for these switches to make them easier to use. Built in spot for a resistor to drop DC voltage higher than 12V etc.

Now I'll get back to designing the PSU for the single ended Stax amp... :)

Edited by spritzer
Posted (edited)

I always order dual primaries for any transformer (custom or other).

I do that as well. Gives us the flexibility to change voltages. Perhaps 115v for the US and 230v for the UK. Edited by Victor Chew
Posted

The only downside to dual primaries is cost.

Birgir, how are you implementing the latching switches? I thought that most of these weren't capable of switching the voltage and/or current levels that we need them to. Or am I just over thinking this?

[edit]I just looked at the specs of one of the 22mm Bulgin latching switches, clearly I'm wrong since they're rated for 250VAC/5A which should be sufficient on the primary side of most headphone amps.

Posted

Most of these switches can indeed handle 5A/250VAC but sometimes you have to track down the manufacturer and the actual spec sheets.

 

Spritzer, will you any boards for sale for the latching switches?


Sure, I bought 100 of them... :laugh:   They were on the expensive side due to the routing required but it wasn't too bad.  I also have pcb's for the Alpha pot, pots too and the teflon Stax sockets should anybody need them. 

Posted

Is the NTE2588 an acceptable substitute for the Toshiba 2SC4686A, which is near impossible to track down now....

 

I compared data sheets and they are very close, but there are some subtle differences, but it seems like the major specs match and physically they should fit... I think.

Example, the continuous collector current on the NTE is 30mA, the Toshiba is 50.

 

NTE2588 Data Sheet http://www.nteinc.com/specs/2500to2599/pdf/nte2588.pdf

2SC4686A Data Sheet http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/408/7834-30958.pdf

 

Of course if there is another alternative, this is the first I've found and investigated.

 

I'll be doing the same for the 2SA970 and 2SC1815 next...

Posted

The best alternative would be the 2SC4686 which is the same part with a lower voltage rating.  Still in production last I heard. 

 

I'd like to buy 3 of each (PCB's) if you don't mind.

 

No problem.  The switch PCB's should be here in a week or two so drop me a line then.  :)

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