spritzer Posted December 26, 2012 Report Posted December 26, 2012 Stranded copper wire for me, some is silver plated. I really don't care about this any more...
RudeWolf Posted December 26, 2012 Report Posted December 26, 2012 I use 30AWG silver plated copper and teflon insulated multistrand wires for anything that isn't too high current. For soldering I actually prefer stranded wires as they suck up solder by capillary action just like solder wick. I used to use CAT5/6 wires but for soldering the insulation melts away too easily. Also the bare copper seems to oxidize in clamp type connections very easily. For high current and 220VAC level I just rip up some lamp cord do a nice twisted pair. Soldering these sometimes require a little more oomph from your soldering rod but the isolation usually holds up nicely. Just be sure to keep your heatshrink far away from the spot you are soldering, there have been times when I've shrunk some prematurely and had to reconnect the darn thing back again.
headinclouds Posted December 26, 2012 Report Posted December 26, 2012 I looked at the usual trade catalogues, but decided I didn't need the 25 metre reels. An ebay uk search for "teflon wire" brought up some suitable stuff.I bought a few metres of various colours and some is rated for 300v,600v and 1000v so you have a choice.You can get silver plated copper with pvc insulation rated for 600v also.I am honestly not sure I can tell the difference of what wire the power supply is connected with.http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=NAVSHIPS&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=TEFLON+WIRE&_sacat=0&_trksid=m194&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSRCHX:SRCHHappy Christmas to all the Headcases and am grateful for your helpful comments. Looking forward to having my KGSSHV built in a month (?) 1
jwzhan Posted December 26, 2012 Report Posted December 26, 2012 (edited) Then buy from here. UL approved 600V stranded tinned copper. They are cheap and as good as those silver plated and not UL approved "600V" wired. If you really really want silver plated.... here They also sell them.. also UL approved 600V and at a much cheaper price.. like 5 times cheaper then those sellers on ebay. Edited December 26, 2012 by jwzhan
schubert Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 My Schubert KGSShv front arrived !!!
Victor Chew Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 Nice. But "Pro" not required since you have only have 5 pins.
Voltron Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 (edited) ^^ You could have stopped with the first word of your post. The rest is totally unnecessary. Nice touch with the autograph, Schubert. Edited December 27, 2012 by Voltron
eggil Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 Schubert, do you have pictures of the innards?
jwzhan Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 If I'm not mistaken, this is a 2U case front plate. How do you plan on putting the PSU and AMP in the same case? (I assume that's what you are planning to do, since you have the switch mounted on this face plate.)
schubert Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 Yes, a 2U case, just as Spritzer did. I have à large case for that : 435mm*400mm. Headinclouds made a drawing of it, it is just but it fits in. I'll send pictures when I'll receive the onboard PCB
eggil Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 I have been to Avignon. Beautiful place. Have driven a car from Lyon winding all the way down to Barcelona. Hope to do it again sometime in the future. So you haven't started your build yet?
jwzhan Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 That's going to be a tight fit, real tight fit... Good luck on the build and I mean it, because you are going to need it...
eggil Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 I am also thinking on using a 2U case with my second build like Spritzer did. He did not use the E24 and that saved a lot of space.
jwzhan Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 Are you building an on-board version for the second one? That's going to run a lot hotter than the off-board version. Victor reported the heatsink temp. being upwards of 80C (+40~50C of room temp.) It sure can save some room if it can be crammed a 2U case though.
Victor Chew Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 (edited) Its 30C to 35C room temp between June to October. The amp runs at 80C plus and the power supply heatsinks are just as hot. You want plenty of ventilation for the onbaord version to reduce the high temperature "attack" on the parts, especially on hot days. Edited December 27, 2012 by Victor Chew
eggil Posted December 27, 2012 Report Posted December 27, 2012 (edited) Yes, the onboard version. The off board is very nice but big, about 30 lbs. I sold it and the 007 Mk1 so I could afford the 009. This one however is mine to keep. I think my wife will be happier with a smaller amp if I can pull it off. 80C? I am surprised. My understanding is it should run in the 60'sC. I am using the IXYS parts. I want to reserve the 1968 for the Megatron. Edited December 27, 2012 by eggil
Victor Chew Posted December 28, 2012 Report Posted December 28, 2012 Operating Max for the IXYS I believe is 150C. It gets quite hot and humid around here in the hot months. I believe Kevin said if you can leave your hands on the heatsinks for more than 5 seconds, its not too hot. I can do that, but I might have thicker skin. ! I would also like to build the megatron when the boards become available.
jwzhan Posted December 28, 2012 Report Posted December 28, 2012 Yes, the onboard version. The off board is very nice but big, about 30 lbs. I know... it's a pain in the ass to move that thing around, and it takes up so much space... I barely have enough room on the desk to use my mouse... I'd also love to buld a Megatron, but as of right now I can't really use anything that has a tube, because when the AC turns on, the floor vibrates quite violently... Anything other than SS means I will have to listen to the AC along with the music.. (also still have balanced Dynahi to build and have to swap out the wonky amp board on KGSSHV.)
spritzer Posted December 28, 2012 Report Posted December 28, 2012 My HV doesn't run quite that hot, about the same as the standard KGSS. To lazy to wire it up and test though but I did take a lot of care with cooling the amp boards.
schubert Posted December 28, 2012 Report Posted December 28, 2012 Spritzer, what kind of tricks about cooling boards ?
spritzer Posted December 28, 2012 Report Posted December 28, 2012 Vents above and below the boards to ensure maximum airflow.
schubert Posted December 28, 2012 Report Posted December 28, 2012 I have been to Avignon. Beautiful place. Have driven a car from Lyon winding all the way down to Barcelona. Hope to do it again sometime in the future. So you haven't started your build yet? Nice place, Provence. Not started yet, collecting all parts must be the toughest part of the build, but I'm almost done. And then assembly
luvdunhill Posted December 29, 2012 Report Posted December 29, 2012 Operating Max for the IXYS I believe is 150C. It gets quite hot and humid around here in the hot months. I believe Kevin said if you can leave your hands on the heatsinks for more than 5 seconds, its not too hot. I can do that, but I might have thicker skin. ! I would also like to build the megatron when the boards become available. Remember, that is max die temperature. Also, they don't specify how long they promise them to work at 150C. I'd recommend shooting at 50% the recommendation.
Victor Chew Posted December 29, 2012 Report Posted December 29, 2012 Thanks alot Marc. However, there is not alot I can do to cool it apart from blowing with an external fan.
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