Pars Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Those that were following my BOM need to make sure to use an isolation pad on the +/-15V regulators. Or substitute the units with 511-L7815CP and 511-L7915CP. On the negative rail, the tab is connected to the input pin, so the input could potentially short to the ground if isolation pads are not used... Really sorry about this. I would not use ST Micro regulators... I've had problems with them in the past, mostly the negative, Use Fairchild or National or ON instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 I'll second that one. Never figured it out either, i don't know how they can continue to sell those things, every time i try one even in a simple circuit i have trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ujamerstand Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Hrm. Is it because of bad regulation? Or are they very likely to fail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) ^ the one I recall was in a circuit (don't remember what it was exactly) that wouldn't draw enough current for the negative regulator to go into regulation. Increased the load and it would regulate. Replaced with a Fairchild (and then an ON) and both worked perfectly. EDIT: remembered what it was in: a dynahi board (+/- 15V regs for the servo opamps). 1 opamp would not pull enough current to convince the STM neg regulator that it should, umm, regulate. No problems with the other brands mentioned. Edited May 23, 2012 by Pars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 I could take two of those PCB's. Cool. The price comes to 2.71$ each and the shipping should be 2-4$ depending on location. Btw. Here is a pic: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jantze Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Those PCB's are still looking good PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvs_75 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 I just trashed four STMs (511- L7915CV). They all gave me between -18 to 19v output. I am going to try OnSemi (863-MC7915BTG), it has output noise only 90uV vs. others 250 - 350uV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 put a load on it before you throw it away... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzziguy Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Yeah, send them to Birgir. I'm sure that he'd be happy to step on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 put a load on it before you throw it away... Don't we have an emoticon for that here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) ^ Yes, we do.... Edited May 22, 2012 by Pars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Spritzer, I'll take 4 if you still have a few to spare Edited May 23, 2012 by eggil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvs_75 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) put a load on it before you throw it away... I know about the load and was absolutely sure that I tested it under the load. As you can see it’s the original KGBH board and not KGSSHV but the + 15/-15v sections are almost identical so it should not matter really in my case. To make long story short I was having problems with the amp board which eventually lead to problems with PSU. My old 7915 regulator, do not even remember which manufacturer, was working fine there before I screw it up. So after trying STMs I thought that my input voltage a bit high for this particular regulator. I am really glad to look dumb stupid now , if not this thread I would put the project on hold again. Now everything looks like working right, all I need is to find time to powder coat my panels and put this beast together. Edited May 23, 2012 by vvs_75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Spritzer, I'll take 4 if you still have a few to spare I have dozens and dozens of them so just drop me a PM with your address so I can figure out the shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ujamerstand Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Tested the power supply today. Low voltage rails test out okay, regulated at +/-14.97V. Fuse blown when I tested the -500V rail. Let troubleshooting begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livewire Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Ugh. Let us know what you find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) I finished the wiring today. Balance and Offset are within 1 V on both sides. Problem is, there is volume only on the right side even with the volume down to zero, then it sounds equal on both sides as the pot is increased to about 12 o'clock Because there is eventually sound on both sides I figure the connections are fine; since the balance and offset are fine, sound like the amp is fine too. I did not ground the Pot. Checked all the connections, I flipped the O- and O+ because of the flipped feedback. I am thinking is the Khozmo. Not sure yet. Edited May 29, 2012 by eggil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwmclean Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Sounds to me like left and right channels are mixed. I’d check the resistances over the amp board +/- inputs and +/-XLR inputs. If the resistance changes when adjusting the attenuator that’s confirmation for that channel. Just check it’s wired correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) One side of the pot is not working though. I get on open line (OL) in my DMM. John, I have the same pot you have. Edited May 29, 2012 by eggil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwmclean Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Arghh yeah ok. The only other thing could be where Arek has joined the wires together, I asked for 400mm length wires, thinking that it would be one piece of wire directly from inside the attenuator, instead he just extended it by soldering and heat shrinking a new piece of wire. So maybe the join is cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 is one single wire. I opened it and all are soldered to the boards. I am stumped and will have to return it. We'll see how good their customer service is. I now get OL on all the stacks, but when I measure the In and Out on the same stack get 51K (I have the 50K pot). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor Chew Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) How are you measuring them eggil? I believe 2 wafers control one channel (either right or left). Each XLR channel has hot and cold. Hot to one wafer and cold to the other wafer. One wafer will have "in", "out" and "ground". "In" will connected to the XLR and "out" to amp input. To check if the wafer/attenuator is working correctly measure the "in" and "out". Edited May 29, 2012 by Victor Chew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) That's how I am measuring them; I get an open line (OL) from all of them now, when measuring In from one wafer to Out to the other wafer. If unable to fix I think I may try the Goldpoint instead. Too bad it has only 23 steps, but I have found myself using the share screen in another computer to fiddle with the iTunes volume anyway. Edited May 29, 2012 by eggil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ujamerstand Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 (edited) Threw in a 3A fuse. No problem. regulates at 506V. Very Solid. Edit: Tested the negative postive rail separately. No problem. Solid regulation at +506V. Bias is very stable at 480V. Today is a happy day. Edited June 1, 2012 by ujamerstand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor Chew Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 (edited) Bias ought to be 580v instead of 480v. A need to use at least 3A fuse for the PS alone looks like it is pulling quite a lot of current. I am using a 2A with amp connected to the PS and source playing through the amps. Nevertheless, congratulations on get the PS up. Edited June 1, 2012 by Victor Chew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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