sorenb Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) @JimL: I believe that I've learned my lesson in that regard ) @Spritzer: "The heatsink is grounded so it doesn't make any sense that it shorts there. Also no traces too close to that spot... Weird... " Well ....maybe the heatsinks are grounded if you're done doing the mounting ... but since I was expecting something to go wrong I skipped the soldering of the heatsinks ... so even though the sinks will be grounded just by touching the side of the holes I actually manged to have a few that doesn't ... I guess that explains why I experience different readings on my DMM at the same spots after wrikling the board up side down a few times... The mark I've spotted is the only visual I could find, (apart from the two sources on the input fets) and assumed (wrongly) that the air hold edge was ground (I've checked my board and it is not) @nopants: I believe that the input fets in my Spritzer build is a pair of 170's ... and to my ears the Spritzer build sounds a bit better than mine BTW when putting on music for the first time I grabed a random CD from the box I have stoved them away in (only using NAS and good old LPs) ...turned out that it was in fact: Tower of Power's Monster on a leash ...in fact it is! @Joamat, Johnmclean: Thanks to everybody contributing to the thread I manged to pull it off. Edited May 12, 2015 by sorenb
kingofsnake Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 sorenb.......Happy that you have it sorted and is making sweet music. Excellent write up which i found most informative along with some very nice HD pictures.
spritzer Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 I would change to no conductive screws Sören, nothing in that CCS should be conductive to ground. As for me, it's been a busy couple of days... 1
nopants Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 Is that an amber LED for the switch? It looks nice for a silver face, might copy that for the multiamp
sorenb Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 Birgir, that is a really nice looking rack you have ... And in rgrds to screwing, I already ordered some plastic from Mouser ...
spritzer Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 Yup, that's an amber led. Quite partial to it which is why I just got 200 of these switches today...
sorenb Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 @Joamat, I guess Spritzer implies that I am screwing hard and therefore should use plastic
nopants Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 Are you using a torque driver to do this? I don't know how else you'd assess how you're actually screwing things (in/up). However I'll go ahead andl note that Craig Sawyers mentioned in another thread that thermal interfacing reduces the sensitivity to torque.
nopants Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 Yup, that's an amber led. Quite partial to it which is why I just got 200 of these switches today... Are all of these switches created equal? I'm looking at some Chinese stuff and Bulgin/Schurter options and the price differences are almost silly
spritzer Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 They are not all the same but most are of similar quality. Those that I just got are from China but feel a lot nicer. Need to do some more testing though...
sorenb Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 @nopants: "Are you using a torque driver to do this? I don't know how else you'd assess how you're actually screwing things (in/up). However I'll go ahead andl note that Craig Sawyers mentioned in another thread that thermal interfacing reduces the sensitivity to torque." - I use a light but firm grib, and as soon as my fingers tend to slip I let go ... I'm pretty sure that I do not over teighten things ...
nopants Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 It's pretty hard to gauge that just by feel, but I'll defer that to other people. I bought a torque driver for the T2 so I don't fuck that up
kingofsnake Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Put this together the other day boards are from the recent group buy that mwl168 organised (many thanks again). This is my first successful KGSSHV build and i am amazed i have actually assembled a working amp. Many thanks of course has to go to Mr Kevin Gilmore and Spritzer for this amazing ever evolving project. 1
sorenb Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Congrats: Kingofsnake is like if the dust have only just settled before the amp emerged ;o) pretty good build you have there, even the lead for the caps got a redtube ;o)
spritzer Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Looks good!! Where did you get that R-core? I've been trying to find somebody to sell me good ones for a while now...
kingofsnake Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Congrats: Kingofsnake is like if the dust have only just settled before the amp emerged ;o) pretty good build you have there, even the lead for the caps got a redtube ;o) Thanks sorenb. Farnell were out of 0.1uf/1kv film capacitors but had these o.1uf/1.5kv film capacitors in stock. there pretty big and this was the easiest way i could mount them. The red tube covering the leads is silicone to prevent any chance of shorting, being as there is so much lead exposed.
kingofsnake Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Looks good!! Where did you get that R-core? I've been trying to find somebody to sell me good ones for a while now... I got it from e-bay seller findhifi. Im not sure if he still goes by that name as when i click on his username it returns a homepage but with no items for sale!! Give sep_store168 a try as i think he has similar transformers. Thanks for the kind words by the way.
Aive Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Very professional build! Just wondering, what cabling did you use there - I can't make it out from the printing on the sheath.
kingofsnake Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 what cabling did you use there - I can't make it out from the printing on the sheath. Thanks for the kind comments. The cable i use for signal is this...http://www.audiospares.com/product.php?productid=2970&cat=490&page=1 the cable i use for voltage is this ....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-19-0-25-PTFE-teflon-silver-plated-copper-wire-/380366586627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item588f9d8303 he has quite a selection. good quality cable me thinks and affordable. 1
kingofsnake Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Great build Kingofsnake! Congrats! Thanks mwl168. These are of course the boards from your group-buy. May i ask how your build is shaping up regarding the temperatures you were experiencing. what would you say is the maximum temp the heat-sinks reach?
Aive Posted May 14, 2015 Report Posted May 14, 2015 Thanks for the kind comments. The cable i use for signal is this...http://www.audiospares.com/product.php?productid=2970&cat=490&page=1 the cable i use for voltage is this ....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-19-0-25-PTFE-teflon-silver-plated-copper-wire-/380366586627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item588f9d8303 he has quite a selection. good quality cable me thinks and affordable. Awesome thanks for the info - I'm always looking out for good internal cabling/wiring. Sick of using the canare stuff, that screen is a mofo.
kevin gilmore Posted May 14, 2015 Author Report Posted May 14, 2015 (edited) wow, all the holes on the bottom in a straight line. good job. resistors really did not have to be that far off the board, but looks nice, all even. I'm sure birgir has a picture of a particular persons build (cough cough henyo cough cough) where the bottom of the thing was attacked with a hand drill and he should post it. Edited May 14, 2015 by kevin gilmore
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