Kerry Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Back up Here's what I broke: Glad it wasn't more extensive. I'm going to keep the current where it is for not with the 100 ohm set resistors. If the heat in the chassis comes down to 120 deg F or less I'll probably keep it here. I've not put it up on the scope yet, but will get there at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 You got lucky there. I'm chasing ghosts in one HV channel I haver here as it makes a nice sssssshhhhh sound that changes all the time. All the front end has been replaced and everything checks out fine but still can't find it. Bloody annoying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted August 25, 2013 Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 You're right. Luck was with me I've been there too. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor Chew Posted August 25, 2013 Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 (edited) Any substantial difference in the sound with the current turned back down? Edited August 25, 2013 by Victor Chew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadlylover Posted August 25, 2013 Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 Hey guys just an update on the sato denki / 4686A sand group buy I was getting a long while back; Unfortunately I can't see myself having free time anytime soon to orchestrate the group buy, I really expected to have some time off recently but it just didn't happen. Please accept my apologies if I had delayed your builds or anything like that, despite my best efforts in trying to convey that the group buy was for stockpiling purposes only. I do have 500pcs of 4686A on me sitting around, so if anyone in the US needs a handful and is also up for helping me to distribute them, I could ship the lot to that person. We can work out the details later if anyone does volunteer. Again, sorry for letting you guys down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted August 25, 2013 Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 Any substantial difference in the sound with the current turned back down? Not substantial but it helps when using the 007's at crazy levels. That said I'm going to see how the amp is at lower voltage but higher current. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted August 25, 2013 Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 I haven't turned the current down on mine yet, but glad to hear that it isn't substantial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) / Edited November 11, 2015 by JoaMat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 birgir did that, and I never checked it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remolon Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 LSK389/PMBFJ620 substitute. The GKSS specifies for this function a 2SK389 double FET, as is used for the Dynalo. For my Dynalo, I substituted it for two BJT, first with the ksc1815 and later, with a different PCB, with the BC550. Both cases worked. I do not have the ability for soldering the PMBFJ620 and I do not have the LSK389 or the 2SK170. So, I am considering the possibility of using two BJT (with the base at the central pin) in its place: MPSW06 rotated 180º or BC550. I will appreciate any comments or experience on such a substitution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Have anyone used PMBFJ620 with the new KGSShv board? According data sheet pin 5 is drain(1) and pin 6 is gate(1). When checking the board I get pin 5 routed to gate and pin 6 to drain. Could it be that there is an error on the board or have I just mixed things up? I never tested it. Just compared it with the data sheet but I clearly got it wrong. Will fix now but it's too late for these boards... Sorry about that but the LSK389 is better anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Just FYI the 130V Zeners in some BOM's are listed as EOL @ Mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/Z4KE130-E3-54/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiEBNc%252b2yf67CKy6tKtPo0ZpShBe3I%2fQUB1Qd99z2ndSw%3d%3d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 (edited) Yeah I saw that as well. Believe it or not, Radio Shack sells them on line. Edited August 31, 2013 by Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Also just check zener and 130V on the bottom and show similar. 863-1N5952BRLG works just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I could have sworn I did that...maybe I didn't deselect Vishay. I'm really surprised about the ratshack info though, pretty annoying too as I just bought that vise that was posted on slickdeals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 You need to use 270v zener if opting for the ksc and ksa. Also, total of diode strings is 500v for 450vdc and 550v for 500vdc output. Can someone confirm this? I've been following the PCB and I see each rail's diode string as 3x150V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Knight Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 That is a silkscreen error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Yeah, sorry about that. Shrinking that part of the PSU board was especially difficult... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 No worries, at least we're keeping tabs on it. I would be annoyed with a board this dense if I had to go digging at the zener strings after everything else was populated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I've had to do that... Still if this PSU fails in a non spectacular sense then it's best to just start replacing the sand. Start with the pass fets and then go the rounds on the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_r Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 I'm getting some weird behavior out of the latching switch on the front of my kgsshv. I noticed the LED is dimmer than it should be and decided to do a quick check with the DMM to see what's going on. Apparently I'm getting +9V/-15V (relative to star ground) instead of +12V/-12V. Really not sure what to blame here, as the switch LED crapping out on me happened once before. At least it still 'works', for now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Do you have any pictures of how you have it wired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 What do you mean +/-12V? You should just put the +15V line to the + pole through a dropping resistor (I use 300ohm) and the - is connected to ground. Two switches dieing is not normal as I've used some 50 switches and no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 I'm guessing he's chucking 24V across the LED which would explain its rapid departure from the living world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) I milled the bottom panel out of wood to make sure everything fits and there is no hum. so far so good. Still need to get it on the scope. here's some shots...http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5108/t782.jpghttp://img824.imageshack.us/img824/2716/nocl.jpghttp://img855.imageshack.us/img855/1337/mdfk.jpg the back plates will be powder coated to match the heat sinks. Edited September 2, 2013 by Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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