Lil Knight Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 I updated the KGSSHV's site a bit for more details. Ti/AMB works is exceptional, so please don't expect everything is the same.
RiStaR Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 (edited) Did I just say 450VA? Whoops, I meant 450V output. Yes. Reading about troubles people have encountered such as blown fuses is something I take note of. Comments like "awesome build!","great job!","thank you!" is something I don't need to read about. Anything that's about 230V is completely irrelevant to me as I'm from the US, not EU. If people made mistakes because information was left out (not mistakes like reversing polarity), then it can be very daunting. Ti Kan of AMB goes to great lengths to ensure a build comes out flawless and mentions every issue (i.e. the notes he makes when choosing parts or values) that builders need to know. It's very DIY friendly. The mistakes people often make on AMB are usually wrong part or reversed polarity and rarely due to missing information. There's a saying for this. "You don't know what you don't know." If Ti posted all his work in a thread like this, information gets lost and jumbled, which increases the risks of a failed project. Not everyone will have the patience to read through 146 pages to find relevant information. I am very grateful for Lil Knight's blog. Although, it doesn't mention anything about fuses so that's one example of missing information and a DIYer would have learned that the hard way if he/she didn't read through the 146 pages (actually I've already known about it from AMB, but what if I didn't?). Besides missing information, I have to worry about misinformation as well as my own misunderstandings (I'm not an electrical engineer). Speaking of fuses, I try searching "fuse" in this thread and all I get are "the fuse blew up" comments with no concrete answers. I read 2A slow-blow. Though, it might be wrong. Okay, here's a tip. The posts that say "great job" etc are good search terms for you to use. Here's why... these are often posts that follow a successful build with lots of tips and pictures. You know, the stuff that you actually want and have difficulty with (like wiring, putting in parts etc.) Make use of the search terms you "don't like" to do the things you want to do. When you find those posts you can quickly scroll back to find the ones that you're looking for without having to weed through all the posts that you're finding so troublesome. I don't mean to offend anyone but I believe DIY should be encouraged, even if one doesn't have an engineering background. I'm not asking for entitelment. I do learn along the way. I feel embarrased when I have to ask newbie-esque questions. Why? It shows others that I'm inexperienced and so it'll ilicit this response "if you have to ask these things, then you shouldn't be doing this"; a big discouragement. The only thing I'm uncomfortable with are SMD so I don't go there much. I've read through the first 20 pages and it's mostly preliminary stuff and still in the prototype stage. That's when I got a little impatient seeing I have another 120 pages to read and so I apologize to everyone. I will continue to read through it and gather every information and notes I can. So let bygones be bygones. I may contribute something in the future like a comprehensive guide. So... can I be pardoned? The vast majority of us aren't electronic engineers, too. You don't need to feel out of place. The folks here get agitated only when you ask questions - when it's clear you haven't tried to search. If you're looking for clarity over certain things with which you've researched you'll find help and answers really quickly from very helpful folks (I know I've benefited from that very quickly). I'm also going to bring to attention something that you've not picked up on also. The boards that you've just ordered (I'm assuming the onboard version) are based on a new revision (new layout; new replacement parts etc). The only folks who have really built this version are Lil Knight and Spritzer, I think. So please note that the vast majority of us don't know all the details, either. The majority of us have built it with the older (more expensive; hard to find) parts. If you're still not getting what I'm saying, it'll be good for you to focus on images for wiring, layout and things that have caused folks to blow their amps (which it seems to indicate you'll have problems with?). There really shouldn't be a need to worry about board issues like traces being reversed etc... the KGSSHV platform is relatively mature IMO. I'm going to wish you good luck and hope you can turn things around for you on the forum. Like I said, the folks here are really nice and helpful as long as you don't demand things from folks who don't owe it to you. Edited August 15, 2013 by RiStaR 1
RiStaR Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 I updated the KGSSHV's site a bit for more details. Ti/AMB works is exceptional, so please don't expect everything is the same. Thumbs up!
brncao Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 No. Good luck though. Well.. that was a discouraging comment. I guess some people don't forgive that easily eh? I've seen ignorant people on forums that never learn no matter what you tell them. At least I'm not one of them. I apologize for my impatience and would like to start over again. Thank you for your encouragement Ristar. I'm sure I'll get along just fine here I hope!
luvdunhill Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 Well.. that was a discouraging comment Just trying to keep you alive as well ss the next person that possesses this build.
particleman14 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 Hey guys, so a quick update. I was looking over the boards again and I noticed that my 10k led resistor (R51) is a little charred. You can clearly see marks on the resistor. Was looking at the circuit but wasn't sure why the 10k would be charring up. any ideas? here are some pics. http://imgur.com/2wNdVa2,vRrWyeM#0 Looking at the schematic, i'm not sure why the resistor would burn up as i'm getting a good 15v from the psu. I also replaced the 2sc1815 for good measure but still smelling dat burn...
justin Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 i cant recite my color codes at a Head-Fi meet, but is that a 100 ohm resistor? http://www.oddwires.com/100-ohm-1-4w-0-25w-1-metal-film-resistor-25-pack/
kevin gilmore Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Posted August 15, 2013 that gonna cause some trouble. better replace the resistor, the led and the transistor. and hope the input fet is still ok.
jwzhan Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 seems like 100ohm if it's brown black black black brown..... it's always hard for me to tell the difference between black and dark blue tho..
particleman14 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 oh wow I wonder if it is 100.. replacing whole section tonight. will give update later.
justin Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 well its probably not measuring 100 anymore 1
Kerry Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 (edited) @Lil Knight - I didn't know this site existed. Really nice. Thanks. I may have to get in on a balanced Krell knock-off at some point. Edited August 15, 2013 by Kerry
nopants Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 @Lil Knight - I didn't know this site existed. Really nice. Thanks. I may have to get in on a balanced Krell knock-off at some point. I was thinking about doing the krell balanced, that's enough caps to span my digestive tract though
eggil Posted August 15, 2013 Report Posted August 15, 2013 Hey guys, so a quick update. I was looking over the boards again and I noticed that my 10k led resistor (R51) is a little charred. You can clearly see marks on the resistor. Was looking at the circuit but wasn't sure why the 10k would be charring up. any ideas? here are some pics. http://imgur.com/2wNdVa2,vRrWyeM#0 Looking at the schematic, i'm not sure why the resistor would burn up as i'm getting a good 15v from the psu. I also replaced the 2sc1815 for good measure but still smelling dat burn... Isn't that resistor supposed to be 10K not 100 ohms?
Kerry Posted August 16, 2013 Report Posted August 16, 2013 Stuffing the boards. I've got to drill the heat sinks so I can mount the boards before I finish off the transistors.
Lil Knight Posted August 16, 2013 Report Posted August 16, 2013 Those are beautiful boards, Kerry. What is the thickness of the gold plating?
GeorgeP Posted August 16, 2013 Report Posted August 16, 2013 .... the amp runs as 500V (for IXYS) or 450V (for 1968s). I remember this had been how most people utilized the 1968s, but is it a given that that you cannot use a 500v PS with a 1968 build given the sanyo parts are good to 900v? I had thought Kevin or Birgir had posted on this previously but I am having trouble finding it now.
Lil Knight Posted August 16, 2013 Report Posted August 16, 2013 They are ENIG plated. Yeah, I know that. Just want to know the thickness of the plated layer. 1-3um is what I normally got from the the factory.
Kerry Posted August 16, 2013 Report Posted August 16, 2013 I just checked the OSHPARK website and they don't list that in the specs.
luvdunhill Posted August 16, 2013 Report Posted August 16, 2013 It is IPC-4552 compliant. I have never seen where you can specify thickness.
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