palchiu Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Beautyful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livewire Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Shweeet! Very clean build. <<two thumbs way up!>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Yeah, very nicely done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Really nice! And tidy looking, actually! What switch did you end up going with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Thank you ! I am waiting for a Bulgin from Mouser, as well as the male XLR chassis mounts from Markertek for the loop outs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Noticed you didn't have one of the little AMB e24 thingys like you had on your first build - were you doing a Bulgin with or without LED (their LED switches I believe are good for at least 24v)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwzhan Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Very beautiful! Great build! I'm wondering if there is a source for high quality black momentary push button... I've only seen those very cheap chinese ones on chinese trade sites... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggil Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 This one is a latching switch. No need for the e24. The frozencpu I currently have gets s tuck in the on position. The one I ordered is 117-MP0045/1E2BL012 from Mouser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Does it also need a low voltage connection for the LED or is in done within the switch itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Datasheet should be right there on Mouser. Look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 I did, thanks. But their "datasheet" is pretty low on information. It seems that the switch itself does up to 250v ac, but the led appears to be offered in two flavours with one being 12v and the other being 220v - but I am just surmising. edit: I see now - he is using the 12v dc version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headinclouds Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 That's a very good looking build eggil. Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 If anyone's looking for a cheaper price on peek stuff, there's http://www.solidspot.com/shop/ They sell some parts in < 100 pieces, etc. I haven't really checked in detail. Many of these places are located in silicon valley, I'm trying to see if I can just stop by their warehouse and pay for parts haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 I've bought from them and they were excellent to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palchiu Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 Dear all, I've collected all transistors, and ready to next parts collecting for KGSSHV. I'm newbie with Stax amps my project is use with 007A, should I config with 450V or 500V for better performance? And about CCS, should I use 2SA1968 or IXYS which is better? Needs your kindly advice. Thank you everyone! All The Best, Pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 No real performance benefit for using either the 450V or 500V option. The bias is the same so there is more power at 500V but that's about it. Same thing for the CCS's, the A1968 is more stable when warming up so less drift but that's about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palchiu Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 Hi spritzer, Thank you so much to solve my doubts! All The Best, Pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_r Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Got the dissipante in from modushop, now I can start the hard part of the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipsupt Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 I like what you did with the front! Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Got the dissipante in from modushop, now I can start the hard part of the build. P1070107.JPG How long did it take to reach you from Italy? I think it's been like 2 weeks since my case has been in the states according to their tracking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_r Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 They shipped it out on thursday and I got it tuesday morning, so pretty quick. Then again it arrived in canada on friday, so most of the shipping time was spent between customs and me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_r Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 So after powering on the PSU board the first time (450V version) I get +459, -459, +15, -15, and +569 for the bias before the 4.7m resistor. Is 9V over on the HV rails anything to worry about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwzhan Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 As long as it's stable and nothing blows up, it should be fine. The difference might be caused by resistors in the ladder or the zeners not being precise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 So after powering on the PSU board the first time (450V version) I get +459, -459, +15, -15, and +569 for the bias before the 4.7m resistor. Is 9V over on the HV rails anything to worry about? When you measured the bias before the 4.7M, did you let it warm up for a while? I found the bias to creep up a bit after 5-10 min and then sit solidly at ~ 580 (580.2 in my case). Can't speak to your + and - . Mine are at 504.0 and 504.3 and they seem to be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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