eggil Posted April 30, 2013 Report Posted April 30, 2013 (edited) I had some issues with the casing, since fixed (kind-off), but haven't had time to finish it. Just hope I don't have an early 4th of July when I reconnect the wires. The Stax jacks are for Justin's jacks. Wiring is like Spritzer, or similar. The letters in the back are too big for my taste, but don't feel like writing another 90.00 check to FPE. I may though, when my wife is not looking. The only amp I currently have is not even an amp: SRD7Mk2. I know, the IEC is cheesy, but have not received the new one yet. Edited April 30, 2013 by eggil
RiStaR Posted April 30, 2013 Report Posted April 30, 2013 I had some issues with the casing, since fixed (today), but haven't had time to finish it. Just hope I don't have an early 4th of July when I reconnect the wires. The Stax jacks are for Justin's. The letters in the back are too big for my taste, but don't feel like writing another 90.00 check to FPE. They do a great job. The only amp I currently have is not even an amp: SRD7Mk2. I know, the IEC is cheesy, but have not received the new one yet. Nice build eggil!
n_maher Posted April 30, 2013 Report Posted April 30, 2013 Looks good to me. What are the plans for an attenuator?
spritzer Posted April 30, 2013 Report Posted April 30, 2013 Looks good. The only thing I'd change is to use male XLR's for the loopout so that is conforms to the XLR standard.
eggil Posted April 30, 2013 Report Posted April 30, 2013 (edited) Thanks. Will look for a male XLR with screw in slots. I'll be using the alpha pot with Spritzer PCB. Edited April 30, 2013 by eggil
spritzer Posted May 1, 2013 Report Posted May 1, 2013 I just told Enrique by PM but I should point out that the above is 100% the wrong way of using the PCB. The pot goes on top of it with the shaft pointing where "front" is written.
eggil Posted May 1, 2013 Report Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) LOL. I hate to be 100% wrong. 90% is OK, but 100%? Thank you Birgir Edited May 1, 2013 by eggil
spritzer Posted May 1, 2013 Report Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) LOL. I hate to be 100% wrong. 90% is OK, but 100%? Thank you Birgir Purrfect!! You are not the first one to make that mistake though. Edited May 1, 2013 by spritzer
eggil Posted May 1, 2013 Report Posted May 1, 2013 Yeah, it would help if I read the label that says "front".
GeorgeP Posted May 1, 2013 Report Posted May 1, 2013 ImageUploadedByTapatalk1367433621.180310.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1367433628.530350.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Where did you find these? I just finished making my own from a 1-inch wide roll (it was not the really thin version, but this stuff is a real pain to work with so definitely not round). But would you still cut out the centres where the solder pads are, or just have the cap leads pierce the tape?
justin Posted May 1, 2013 Report Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) you could have the cap leads pierce the tape, but then you're not going to get solder flow to the top side of the PCB. most people probably are not skilled enough solderers for that anyway. but ideally you'd want to remove the centers for that to work just search for kapton discs. these particular ones came from www.caplugs.com and if you want to spend a fortune you can get custom die cut tape Edited May 1, 2013 by justin
GeorgeP Posted May 1, 2013 Report Posted May 1, 2013 this stuff is certainly cheaper than buying kapton tape by the roll - and it is already cut to shape. Thinking you could either fold them in half (before peeling them off obviously) and cut out the centre, or use a single hole punch to make two holes for the leads. Definitely a great find!
justin Posted May 2, 2013 Report Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) maybe i'll put them on ebay, $5 for 10 circles well that would be hard to cut, how about 9 circles Edited May 2, 2013 by justin
eggil Posted May 2, 2013 Report Posted May 2, 2013 Those are expensive circles! Has anybody had any problems with frozencpu's latching switches? I have used 2, and both sometimes get stuck in the on position. If I tap it, it seems to fix the problem, but I am now concerned about reliability.. Certainly they are easier to deal with than the momentary switches, which need a relay.
Lil Knight Posted May 2, 2013 Report Posted May 2, 2013 Those switches from frozencpu are pretty low quality, they will wear out after a short while. Mouser does stock some high current rating latching switch but they are all silver and quite expensive (>$40/ea).
GeorgeP Posted May 2, 2013 Report Posted May 2, 2013 Allied carries Bulgin, which are very high quality (so does Mouser but they charge more for some unknown reason). For about $15 you can get a 250v (but no led), or 24v with led. Never came accross a version with 250v and a led (guessing it would need a resistor built in).
RiStaR Posted May 2, 2013 Report Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) Just chanced upon this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEWEST-AVR-Transistor-meterTester-NPN-PNP-MOSFET-diode-triac-resistor-capacitor-/330877091484?pt=US_Battery_Testers&hash=item4d09cfbe9c Would this be of any use to test for fake parts before plugging them in? Or is the DY294 our main option? Edit: Checked it out - it won't work if anyone else is wondering. Edited May 6, 2013 by RiStaR
eggil Posted May 5, 2013 Report Posted May 5, 2013 (edited) Well, Bach and Jack Johnston came to life through my new KGSSHV. Wiring is what distinguishes the pros from the amateurs, and much as I try, is hard to make it as neat as some of you guys. Couldn't be happier though. Nothing blew this time. I kind of missed the fireworks from my first build The off board build was more challenging, this one was easier and looks nicer. Lots of thanks to Kevin and Birgir. Megatron, here I come! Edited May 5, 2013 by eggil 1
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