spritzer Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 The Carbon is a SiC KGST, not a BHSE. Whether some of the stuff that makes up the BHSE is necessary or even makes it better is something Kevin and I have discussed with no real result. Removing the tubes makes the amps much less likely to break down, in fact I run the Carbon 24/7...
gepardcv Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 the taller caps are really useable in 3U boxes Meaning that downgrading from 680uF caps is a bad idea, and therefore a 3U box is required?
sorenb Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 Meaning that downgrading from 680uF caps is a bad idea, and therefore a 3U box is required? Lay the caps flat, two layers a tad screwed ....they fit inside the 2U
kevin gilmore Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) old power supply (per rail) (just the unregulated primary) 680uf x 2 caps in series, about 600v. total energy storage 61 joules new power supply 500v 1 x 680uf cap total energy storage 85 joules so you can certainly get away with 470uf which is 58 joules and that one is only 60mm high but if you are insane, you can go with the 1000uf cap which is still 40mm diameter but 105mm high and get 125 joules I'm clearly a fan of overkill, but 125 joules is in the range of a heart defibrillator (memories of Mikhail and his 4700uf/450V juice can caps) run at almost 500v and then he put 2 In parallel Edited June 30, 2015 by kevin gilmore
JimL Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 HA! Wimp! My tube phono preamp has over 100 joules in the power supply. Heart defibrillators run between 120 and 300 joules. BTW, here's another enclosure that should work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/141252736876?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
kevin gilmore Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Posted June 30, 2015 that is just one of the caps, there are 4. so up to say 500 joules
JimL Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) Point taken - of course my phono preamp only puts out a few measly volts. Edited July 1, 2015 by JimL
mwl168 Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) Those boxes aren't all that great so I won't be touching them again. What did you not like about the box? I am contempating getting a smaller one for my Carbon build. Edited July 1, 2015 by mwl168
kingofsnake Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 What did you not like about the box? I am contempating getting a smaller one for my Carbon build. I too have used those box's. The Anodising / Plating rubs off! I have several Dings in mine (They must have been packed like that as the box it arrived in was intact and i do not believe it was opened by customs). Three of the threaded holes had to be re-tapped, one of which was tapped on-the-piss. I had to run a drill through it (at 90deg) and re-tapped it so that the countersunk screws would sit properly. One of the air intake slots is out of alignment approx 5-6mm which is quite noticeable when all the others line up properly.
nopants Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 don't know how much PayPal matters when the qc on all the cases is garbage to begin with
Laowei Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 If the delivered casework is shit, I'd sure as hell dispute the purchase to get all my money back.
nopants Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 sure that's totally fair, but I think that's what Birgir was kind of getting at. It's what I would be getting at after using as many chinese cases as I have
Laowei Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 I know. Believe me, I know about Chinese quality.
kevin gilmore Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Posted July 1, 2015 cleaned up schematic for both versions http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvcarbonproduction.pdf
spritzer Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 Some of the Chinese boxes are ok but the anodizing on all of them is shit... pure and utter shit. I use a very strong cleaner to wash the Modushop stuff after drilling to degrease them but if I use that on any of the Chinese boxes... they turn green.
sorenb Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 turning pure utter shit into green, sounds like your on to something
Aive Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 Great design with optocoupler in servo! Is it possible to implement this servo on the dynahi - if so I may give it a try... Do you know what range of offset it could correct?
kevin gilmore Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) for the kgsshv that opto servo has at least half the peak to peak range. reason it exists is that its used as the current control in the latest version of the circlotron. thinking of applying latest ssdynalo design elements to the dynahi but thats going to be a bit. in other news, this is likely the final circlotron output stage, output stage current setable with a pot. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/circlotronoutput.pdf and then this http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvcarboncirclotron.jpg lots of realignment work to get this to match the driver board Edited July 2, 2015 by kevin gilmore
nopants Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 to bring it back around to the regular hv...I had the boards and case lying around and I was able to find a new faceplate by itself- for some reason it took me forever to figure out how to case all these into the galaxy box... how do I bolt down the edcor? hard to use the existing end bell holes without messing up the wires I tore up my hand trying to punch an xlr in the back plate though... maybe I just need to resign to getting them machined now. are you supposed to clear the entire punch bolt with your hole or just the threaded part? I wasn't sure how to ensure the most centered punch hole.
spritzer Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 Mount it in standoffs though the holes in the core. That's what I did on Tyll's amp. Make sure you insulate the holes well though, they must not be grounded!!! What about mounting the small trafo on a side wall or indeed the back panel. I'd prefer to keep the transformer in the back but that's just me..
nopants Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 I can go ahead and try to use the insulators that were attached to the end bells. I don't get clearance for the schaffner inlet then (what I had on hand). That's why I only drilled out a light hole on the front. I do want to put the transformer closer to a supporting foot though...
kevin gilmore Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Posted July 5, 2015 if you are having power supply boards made make sure the board files have todays date on them or later. the new capacitor footprint should take care of any possible cap you can shove in there.
gepardcv Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 Speaking of the new power supplies: what is the procedure for adjusting the output voltage? Unlike the KGSSHV or KGST-mini, no zener string on these (except for the bias one).
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