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Posted

I would definitely go with the 550v caps.

 

depends on the voltage range of your power.

 

if you go with standard voltage +/-5% you might squeeze in to the 500v

 

but if its standard voltage +/-10%, that's pushing it.

So if 500V or 550V is needed one needs two times the cap in order to be able to serialise and still maintain the capacitance?

Posted

might be a stupid question, but don't you need the 20k resistor to maintain a drop of 10V?  something like (Vcc-10V)/0,5mA = total value of two resistors in series ?

so in case one cannot get the resistor values needed, the 20k can be changed a bit up/down as long as there are 10V across ...right?

 

Pretty certain he means the two 390kOhm resistors. For 450V you'd sub in two 440kOhm (or any two that add up to 880k).

 

 

Posted

Pretty certain he means the two 390kOhm resistors. For 450V you'd sub in two 440kOhm (or any two that add up to 880k).

I guess that is obvious .... but not that obvious that you need to maintain 10v across the resistor  that is currently 20k ...it might be higher/lower as far as I can figur out.

Posted

I have some question concerning the SIC Psu

 

What is the rating of the 330pf caps? 1kv? 

Why do the 500k bleeding resistors need to be so big? Is it just because they need to be rated more than 550v and nothing but the 3w is available with such a rating??

 

Furthermore I wanted to ask if there would be any noticeable benefit in using the goldenreference LV supply instead of the tight and small standard LV supply?

Posted (edited)

330pf caps are 1kv

on the old power supply 2 caps were in series with a resistor on each cap, so the

voltages just made the ratings of the resistors, actually slightly more than ratings

on the 500v supply.

the new supply is only one cap, and that would exceed the voltage of a rn60

so the 3 watt (or 1 watt) things are actually rated for voltage. obviously you need only .5 watt

could go with 2 resistors in series, room for that.

sorenb wants to use the higher quality lv supply. don't know if it makes any difference, but the lower

noise might definitely make it better.

Edited by kevin gilmore
Posted

As promised, I started a separate thread for the KGSSHV Carbon and the GoldenReference HV PS group buy: 

 

Due to the options for different PS boards, I need to ask those that have already expressed interest in the GB here to read the new thread and post your response again over at the new thread.

 

I am also going to need some help checking the boards.

 

Thanks! 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Is this the correct part for the tantalum cap in the psu? http://www.mouser.ch/ProductDetail/AVX/TAP476K035CCS/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui71WG8SrZyHASq76qCrPj52xoQTMHd5BCDxIOadHKMAA%3d%3d

 

Never bought a tantalum cap before, but quite expensive...

 

Which heatsink is recommended for the 7815/7915 combo? 

http://www.mouser.ch/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/531102B02500G/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduh5%2fZtDq%2fcwTRGN9T%2fczmwSyk%2fScPY%2fv0hYslkXdMgYig%3d%3d

Is this one fine? Length is 1.5inch. Or is 1inch also sufficient?

Edited by insanity
Posted

For the impatient ones, one of my Carbon PCB orders was thought to be lost so I had to double up the orders.  It turned up on Friday though so now I have too many PCB's.  This version hasn't been tested but it is just a smaller take on the ones I've been using so issues aren't likely.  These are my own custom boards so smaller than any of the other ones and with shielding on both the front and the back.  Price is 47$ each so 94$ for the pair of boards thanks to my expensive tastes and Icelandic taxes...  :) 

Posted (edited)

here is the final stuff unless someone finds an error

 

http://gilmore.chem....shvcarbonv2.jpg

http://gilmore.chem....fetdual2new.jpg

 

http://gilmore.chem....fetdual2new.zip

http://gilmore.chem....shvcarbonv2.zip

 

remember on the +/-15 regulators, the tabs are hot, so insulators

on both parts, and either plastic screw, or metal screw with the plastic rings

on both sides.

Edited by kevin gilmore
Posted (edited)

did not know that, makes it easier

 

amp board 5.45 x 4.05 inches 211 holes

 

psdual board 6 x 6.48 inches 287 holes

 

ps single boards 3 x 6.48 inches

 

if there was a 3U heatsink chassis that was only say 10 inches wide on the inside

I could do the power boards for that.

Edited by kevin gilmore
Posted

Considering all the questions coming in about voltage ratings for the caps on the PSU boards, would you considering updating the silkscreens (for both dual and split) to include all those notes? 1kV for the 330pf, 35V for the 47uF (and note that tantalum is needed). Maybe some others I missed. Should reduce the number of noob questions in the future.

Posted

What should the forward voltage on the LEDs be? 2.1V?

 

Also earlier I meant how the current for the amp is calculated, not the PSU. For example, what resistance at the current adjust would yield 20mA per leg?

Posted

A suggestion.

In the single right fat supply board, the 10m90s on the small heatsink should be mounted on the main al bracket.

 

If going along with this, maybe move the 7815 and 7915 on the left board onto the bracket as well.

Posted (edited)

that is unnecessary but i could probably do it.

the result would be that those parts would get hotter.

 

i have updated the fat boards to be exactly the same

size as the amp boards, makes doing the bottom panel

easier

 

with the fat power supply boards, definitely fits in this one

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cfcbccb96

 

iec hole already in the back panel

Edited by kevin gilmore

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