i'm on a roll... the kgsshv

[spritzer]

Yup, that and the - voltages all over the datasheet means PNP. 

[Kerry]

KGSShv milling is proceeding

 

I had to buy a new controller for the mill.  I had one a cheap ebay one from china and it just messed up too often.  I ended up with the gecko g540.

 

This is the bottom plate.  It is 8.25" W x 14.25" D x 3/16" H.  I decided to go a 1/4" wider just incase I want to put a larger transformer in.

 

 

 

 

 

[kevin gilmore]

very sweet

[johnwmclean]

So much win...

[eggil]

Wow!

[livewire]

Oogly Boogly! Datz gonna B noice.

[palchiu]

lol

It's great have a machine in house.

[headinclouds]

Like eggil says "WOW"

[Cee Tee]

Nice!  I am trying to get the curves right on a faceplate design for the KGSSHV (printed by shapeways.com in alumide at 1/4 scale):

[Victor Chew]

Awesome Kerry.

[RiStaR]

Very nice Kerry!

 

Cee Tee that looks awesome as well! Sorry for the noob question, but is that the final finishing? What is it?

[chinsettawong]

The aluminum plate looks really nice Kerry. 

[Kerry]

Thanks.

 

@Cee Tee - I was always thinking about doing a curved face.  I always thought to mill it out, but printing might provide alternate options. 

 

I looked at the site and went to the materials section to look up alumide. 

 

I'm not clear that this material would be acceptable for a face plate.  What were your thoughts?

[Cee Tee]

Hi Kerry,

 

My plan is to prototype the faceplate design, revise until "good", and then go to CNC with a brushed aluminum faceplate as the final product.  I was hoping to see more custom case design and fabrication by everyone on the boards...so it's nice to see your work and machine! 

 

The gray model that you see is only a small-scale 3D print I made to try out the www.shapeways.com service and to give me an idea of the look with color applied. This "aluminide" material can only be printed in a fairly small size and I think it is just a white substrate sprayed with aluminum powder/dust (as it seems to come off easily).  In this small of a size, it isn't even that helpful for being able to visualize a full-sized part.

 

I also had a hollowed out but full-scale file (prepped for 3D printing parameters) to get a better idea of the shape.  This larger print showed me that my curves are too aggressive. I am going to reduce the thickest area of the plate and elongate/flatten the curve out a bit plus increase the thinnest portion of the "wave".  Glad I made a large prototype.  (This is my first design and DIY faceplate.)

 

For the small and large faceplates + the four knobs it cost me about $120 in two shipments for the 3D prints.  The gray one is very much like sandstone and sheds powder.  The white one is very thin and actually a bit pliable.  

 

Note: Text was enlarged on the white model to meet service's recommended 3D printing spec. Will retain much smaller text in the design and final CNC production.

[shipsupt]

After success powering the amp boards I started to box things up.  

 

Basically slowly mounting and making sure I have all my fasteners... I need to make a run to the hardware store tomorrow!  

 

 

[justin]

i got a good torque screwdriver and tested the M3 peek screws at the recommended torque which is 50% of the max torsional strength or 1.3lb-in.  This is no problem if you have the PEEK screw threaded into a thick heatsink or flange, but if its being secured with a standard M3 nut (stainless) that only has a few threads, the threads will strip on the screw long before there is an issue with the screw head. The max torque with a M3 machine nut is about 0.9 to 1.0lb-in.  If you are using a M3 nut, i would recommend getting a longer PEEK screw and instead of a nut get a M3 standoff of around 5mm length and use that as the nut instead so there are more threads

Edited September 19, 2013 by justin

[spritzer]

That's a lovely box you have there. 

 

i got a good torque screwdriver and tested the M3 peek screws at the recommended torque which is 50% of the max torsional strength or 1.3lb-in.  This is no problem if you have the PEEK screw threaded into a thick heatsink or flange, but if its being secured with a standard M3 nut (stainless) that only has a few threads, the threads will strip on the screw long before there is an issue with the screw head. The max torque with a M3 machine nut is about 0.9 to 1.0lb-in.  If you are using a M3 nut, i would recommend getting a longer PEEK screw and instead of a nut get a M3 standoff of around 5mm length and use that as the nut instead so there are more threads

 

Good point.  We need Kevin to start work on some stronger, non conductive screws... 

[Victor Chew]

Congratulations Shipsupt.

[luvdunhill]

i got a good torque screwdriver and tested the M3 peek screws at the recommended torque which is 50% of the max torsional strength or 1.3lb-in.  This is no problem if you have the PEEK screw threaded into a thick heatsink or flange, but if its being secured with a standard M3 nut (stainless) that only has a few threads, the threads will strip on the screw long before there is an issue with the screw head. The max torque with a M3 machine nut is about 0.9 to 1.0lb-in.  If you are using a M3 nut, i would recommend getting a longer PEEK screw and instead of a nut get a M3 standoff of around 5mm length and use that as the nut instead so there are more threads

 

This is the TO-220 torque guidance that I usually reference: http://www.vishay.com/docs/72674/72674.pdf

[justin]

ive read that as well, would like to see it updated with some of the latest insulator pads

[Remolon]

I agree that every DIY project is a opportunity to learn, and the KGSSHV is an excellent example.

 

I am mounting one of the Amp PCBs provided by Lil Knight. Because of the lack of some parts, I made some substitution (probably some mistakes). So, I am using two BC550 glued with cyanocrylate to replace the LSK389,

 

 

for Q20 I am using BC550 rotated 180º, BC556 for Q17 and Q18, and KSA1156 for Q15 and Q16. Would be possible to use KSA1156, with the correct pin connection, for Q5 and Q6, if the power supply do not pass +/-350VDC?

[kevin gilmore]

you will probably have to adjust the resistor in series with the offset pot, but otherwise everything

should work. Since you loose a few volts you can probably go to +/-375v

[eggil]

Remolon. Those are some very impressive substitutions right there.

[Remolon]

Thanks Kevin.

The substitution is the option I had because some transistors are almost impossible to obtain.

[nopants]

Ironically enough I'm having trouble sourcing the 1156 for the blue hawaii

Edited September 22, 2013 by nopants