luvdunhill Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 Can a mod please move this thread to Head Fi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 I guess that would be the final push I need to turn off PM's over there. I swear if I get one more PM asking me about the price of some random Stax item... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebby Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 I guess that would be the final push I need to turn off PM's over there. I swear if I get one more PM asking me about the price of some random Stax item... Say Stax Sensei-san, what will be the price of that newfangled Omega3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 Ok, now I'm off to sharpen the axe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckledragger Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepak Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 I like this one :varg: on another forum after Varg Vikerness (I realize he is Norwegian and not Icelandic ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ujamerstand Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 So I ordered some LSK389A in TO71 packages directly from Linear Systems' Canadian sells representative. It was pretty hassle-free. I was told they will be shipped in 2 weeks; so it really shouldn't be too hard for people to source these parts, if they do decide to use them. There is a question I want to ask though. The input stage of the kgsshv is a common source amplifier, is this correct? What would be some desirable characteristics for the jfets in this configuration? The reason is that I found an thread by EUVL recently: A Compact, High-Performance Source Follower Module - diyAudio Where he describes desirable characteristics for jfets in CS loaded source follower. So I am wondering the same thing about the circuit in the kgsshv. He also blasted the 2SK170 on its actual noise level, and distrust LSK389s' manufacturing tolerance. (how's that for hyperbole?) The article he linked down in a few posts shows that the manufacturing tolerance for these device was on the rise from 2006~2007 though, but that was three years ago, so I am also left wondering what their manufacturing tolerance is like now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 ujamerstand: let me ask the question this way. what manufacturing tolerance, specifically, would be an issue with this amp? Once you've proposed this, then we can answer the question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ujamerstand Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 I'm not sure, this is not a field that I am an expert in. But I wanted to understand the circuit a little better, that's why I asked. I'd guess differences between the individual jfets within the dual fet? But they are on the same die, so the difference should be minimal, and because they are on the same die, thermal drifting should be minimal... Would the difference between the dual fets be a problem between the channel? I have a feeling that it would not. Jesus, I felt like I'm taking a test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MASantos Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Any news over here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Due to busting up my foot a while ago, i have had to slow down a bit. I want to get the next 5 x T2 chassis out the door first which should be about 2 more weeks. That will leave only 3 left. I have shipped the board files to someone that is going to make me a small run of prototype boards for a rational price. Someone else has the board files for the KGITSOJC so that is moving along too. I'm installing hid lighting over my workbench at home today to make it easier to build stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les_Garten Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Due to busting up my foot a while ago, i have had to slow down a bit. I want to get the next 5 x T2 chassis out the door first which should be about 2 more weeks. That will leave only 3 left. I have shipped the board files to someone that is going to make me a small run of prototype boards for a rational price. Someone else has the board files for the KGITSOJC so that is moving along too. I'm installing hid lighting over my workbench at home today to make it easier to build stuff. What'd you do, drop a T2 Heatsink on your foot! J/k Can you describe the lighting? I'm looking at lights presently for a few work areas as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Chalk Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Sorry to hear about your foot, but this was my first thought as well:What'd you do, drop a T2 Heatsink on your foot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MASantos Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Sorry about your foot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) See i injured my foot pretty good, stress fracture... Now if i had stayed off it for about 3 weeks then (like my doctor told me) i would not have injured it 3 more times in the following 2 weeks. Finally it got to the point that i just plain had to slow down, and be much more horizontal much more of the time. Great for listening to music. (with headphones of course). Lousy for just about everything else. (queue dr. wood) Anyway, most people would be happy with 2 or 3 of these. These really are great, and cheap, i have 2 in cans lighting the fireplace. EcoSmart PAR38 18-Watt (75W) LED Flood Light Bulb (E)* - ECS 38 WW FL 120 at The Home Depot but i went a bit overboard with 2 of these. Miletus PAR-38 Dimmable LED Light Bulb (20-Watt, High-Power Nichia LEDs) : PAR Series : Ultimate : LED Light Bulbs (warning this company is a bit hard to deal with and lies about delivery times like you would not believe, fake tracking numbers and all...) (neutral white/spot) I get about 6000 foot-lamberts at the work surface with the bulbs about 4 feet above the work area. I already broke the cheap home-depot fixture as it really was not designed for this amount of weight and after adjusting it, one of the two swivels broke. Should be fixed shortly. I'm going to have to put a dimmer on them, because this is more overkill than i need. In a few days i will probably start a thread on the lutron radio ra2 setup i'm installing, complete with about $1500 in led light bulbs. Combined with a few other items, this is slick on a stick (and yes i broke loose a copy of the software without having to spend 2 days in a class with a bunch of blue collar electricians) Edited November 7, 2010 by kevin gilmore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhellow Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 In a few days i will probably start a thread on the lutron radio ra2 setup i'm installing, complete with about $1500 in led light bulbs. Combined with a few other items, this is slick on a stick (and yes i broke loose a copy of the software without having to spend 2 days in a class with a bunch of blue collar electricians) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Any recommendation for something I can mount under a cabinet that would be effective for soldering and what not? It will be about 3-4 feet from the light to the work area. Something that is a flush mount with cords that come out of the side would be best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhellow Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Any recommendation for something I can mount under a cabinet that would be effective for soldering and what not? It will be about 3-4 feet from the light to the work area. Something that is a flush mount with cords that come out of the side would be best. There is nothing really suitable on the LED front for under cabinet mounting like the 2 foot fluorescent lights. The few LEDs in that size work at a very white color temp and are pretty expensive. There are some nice LED desk and work lamps out there. JHellow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les_Garten Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 There is nothing really suitable on the LED front for under cabinet mounting like the 2 foot fluorescent lights. The few LEDs in that size work at a very white color temp and are pretty expensive. There are some nice LED desk and work lamps out there. JHellow I've got a long work bench in my Garage. It's 16' x 32". Ceiling is 9 1/2'. Would these Can lights KG mentioned above be good for workbench illumination? If so, how many? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Anyway, most people would be happy with 2 or 3 of these. These really are great, and cheap, i have 2 in cans lighting the fireplace. EcoSmart PAR38 18-Watt (75W) LED Flood Light Bulb (E)* - ECS 38 WW FL 120 at The Home Depot are there switching supplies in every bulb? my experience w/ CFLs has been the switching power supply starts to die long before the specified lifespan of the bulb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 (edited) yes of course there are switching supplies in them. Which is why the cfl's die because they have a big electrolytic cap, and boost the voltage to about 300 volts. The led's are way different, the good ones don't have any electrolytic caps of any kind and the latest nat semi chips do a great job of dimming all by riding the ac input power. i'm not doing this to save power or save money. this is clearly a money loosing proposition at this point. i don't believe the bulbs will last 30 years. i want them because of the color and intensity of the light, and bunches less heat. Edited November 10, 2010 by kevin gilmore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 yes of course there are switching supplies in them. Which is why the cfl's die because they have a big electrolytic cap, and boost the voltage to about 300 volts. The led's are way different, the good ones don't have any electrolytic caps of any kind and the latest nat semi chips do a great job of dimming all by riding the ac input power. i'm not doing this to save power or save money. this is clearly a money loosing proposition at this point. i don't believe the bulbs will last 30 years. i want them because of the color and intensity of the light, and bunches less heat. what color are they? my CFLs are 2700K and it was close enough to incandescent for me. they only save money in the summer. but they paid for themselves in 2 months. dropped my electric bill about $15/mo for 6 bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 (edited) various different color temperatures available warm white 2500k-3200k neutral white 4700-5700k home depot bulbs are at 2900k (i actually measured these) cfl's and most of the led bulbs are within about 1 watt of each other. the ledwaves bulbs are put together with screws and come apart easy and i will have no trouble repairing them. the cfl's in the basement as they die will be replaced with led bulbs. dimming the cfl's really shorten their lives. if i actually save money on electricity, thats just a bonus. The basement was a total of 1320 watts of incandescent now its about 100 watts. plus the difference due to the heat. Edited November 10, 2010 by kevin gilmore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhellow Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 I've got a long work bench in my Garage. It's 16' x 32". Ceiling is 9 1/2'. Would these Can lights KG mentioned above be good for workbench illumination? If so, how many? Check this light out. Park Avenue High-Power LED Outdoor Light Bar : Wall Washers I just ordered one for the work area in my garage. Its available in warm white, which could be anything from 2700k to 3000k. If you can throw two 6 inch can assemblies up, the Cree CR-6 or LR-6 would be great and half the price. The quality of light from the Crees is astounding. I have six in my kitchen and its just unbelievable how comfortable the light is. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 I've got a long work bench in my Garage. It's 16' x 32". Ceiling is 9 1/2'. Would these Can lights KG mentioned above be good for workbench illumination? If so, how many? If you put them a little higher than i did, and space them every 3 feet, then you still need 10 of them. But it will really light the bench up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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