The Headcase Stax thread

[dvse]

GPH: Thanks for the impressions, the KGSS is an amp I definitely have on the menu as a potential main course. Regarding your impressions of its drier tonality next to the T1 - is it simply a drier tonality than the T1, or a dry tonality in the absolute sense? I love the liquid, "wet" sound that I'm getting out of the O2 in my rig, and I would hate to lose that. I haven't hooked up the 717 yet but I am afraid I may lose out on that liquid aspect even with the supposedly warmer-sounding 717. Right now, the rig is magically fluid and organic, but the transformer box doesn't have the power to make the bass as tight as it should be.

In my experience, KGSS with BG power supply caps (which may not make any difference ) is actually more 'liquid' and 'musical' sounding than the SRM-717 which can be a bit 'diffused' and 'grainy' at times. KGSS is more source dependent though, where as the 717 may help to smooth out some of the upstream deficiencies. This is all pretty subtle and unless you spend a lot of time comparing, SRM-717 is competent.

[GPH]

dvse, I'll keep in mind the comments about the source. I have to let my wallet recover for a while before investing anything though. I'm bringing my setup at a meet next week so we'll see how it goes.

is it simply a drier tonality than the T1, or a dry tonality in the absolute sense?

Sorry, I wasn't clear, I meant compared to the T1. It's still the SR-007, and the overall "wet" sound is still there.

[spritzer]

I'll also check out the EH1.2b, if it ever appears to have become a viable commercial product and not just a prototyle. I'm still following the 1.2b drama closely, and I hope something good will come of it, if only to motivate Stax to get their act together.

Not knowing what hell they are doing would be a better description then drama but I'm going to stay away from the HE1.2b unless something drastic happens.

The expense of the SR-Omega, together with its rarity and its propensity for driver failure, makes me think twice about trying to find one. If it's not a stretch financially then I'll go for it, but ATM it's a risky investment.

The risk involved shouldn't be ignored but they are even "better" with SR-007 drivers. The housing will always have the largest impact on any planar design and the sharp angle of the original pads create a wider soundstage.

Will keep you posted on how the 717 works out. Is it possible to substitute jumpers from other sources if I'm missing one? And where would I go by getting my hands on them?

These are just normal fuse holders so a 4A 20mm fuse should do the trick. The pins are 20mm long and 5mm across.

In my experience, KGSS with BG power supply caps (which may not make any difference ) is actually more 'liquid' and 'musical' sounding than the SRM-717 which can be a bit 'diffused' and 'grainy' at times. KGSS is more source dependent though, where as the 717 may help to smooth out some of the upstream deficiencies. This is all pretty subtle and unless you spend a lot of time comparing, SRM-717 is competent.

The BG's do make a difference but whether it is worth the price is another matter.

[jp11801]

Ok I can't explain this but maybe one of you can, I am using a pair of Lambda pro headphones with the wrong transformer (srd7 normal bias) with an asl typhoon (kt88 amp 30 watts triode) and it sound fantastic. The sound is ever so slightly on the analytical side of like but no more so than a k1000 but with deep tight bass. Shouldn't this not work out since the transformer is meant for headphones with half the bias of the lambda pro??

I really can't see how a stax amp is going to better this but I have a srm on the way

[spritzer]

Shouldn't this not work out since the transformer is meant for headphones with half the bias of the lambda pro?

Less then half (230 vs. 580) but no, not really. The bias is just an optimized figure for that diaphragm/stator gap and the drive voltages present. If you lower the bias you will still get sound but it will be "softer" as the stators do not have the same grip on the diaphragm due to the lower potential. Since the electrostatic force drops by the square of the distance the designers have to ramp up the bias voltage in ever growing increments to make up for the increased gap space for greater dynamics.

[deepak]

At least with the SR-007 MK1 they sound very poor on the normal bias transformer box. It's quite a step up in sound quality going to the pro.

[Fungi]

Got the Lambdas running out of an 80s Denon PMA-720 receiver... game over for dynamics, I might even get rid of my M^3 since I'm going to sell all my main contenders for dynamics

[spritzer]

Got the Lambdas running out of an 80s Denon PMA-720 receiver... game over for dynamics, I might even get rid of my M^3 since I'm going to sell all my main contenders for dynamics

[The Monkey]

Is it possible to send vintage Stax to be "refurbished"?

[Tachikoma]

It should be, my Lambda Pro was serviced by Stax Japan last year.

[grawk]

we have our own stax refurbishing center right here in this thread

[spritzer]

Is it possible to send vintage Stax to be "refurbished"?

The Stax version of refurb is to remove everything that could be broken and replace with parts from the current line. Not really what you want them to do with the vintage Lambdas is it...

If it's the Lambda Sigs that you are talking about then I'd just order up a new SR-303 (or 404 if you want a better one) cable and install it. I can take you through it step by step and it is not that hard to do if you know how a screwdriver works and which end of the soldering iron to hold...

[dvse]

I have the new Stax extension cord with cut off male plug that I used to make an HE60 adaptor and I would like to use it to recable an SR- Mk3 - what would be a good way to secure the cable as it enters earcups? Spritzer, I think you've done something similar before - any hints?

[spritzer]

I have the new Stax extension cord with cut off male plug that I used to make an HE60 adaptor and I would like to use it to recable an SR- Mk3 - what would be a good way to secure the cable as it enters earcups? Spritzer, I think you've done something similar before - any hints?

I use zip-ties to secure the cables, one closer to the opening and a second directly above it on the cable for extra protection. I use pliers to grip the free end and the lock at the same time for a tight fit. Here is a pic of my SR-X Mk3 Pro:

[bralk]

If it's the Lambda Sigs that you are talking about then I'd just order up a new SR-303 (or 404 if you want a better one) cable and install it. I can take you through it step by step and it is not that hard to do if you know how a screwdriver works and which end of the soldering iron to hold...

Hi spritzer

I would like to try and recable my defunct SR-303. Can you suggest a supplier for a spare cable ?

Will I have to install new pads as well after removal. Or can some third party adhesive be used to fasten the old ones ?

cheers

Tom

[spritzer]

Hi spritzer

I would like to try and recable my defunct SR-303. Can you suggest a supplier for a spare cable ?

Will I have to install new pads as well after removal. Or can some third party adhesive be used to fasten the old ones ?

cheers

Tom

Anyone of the Stax distributors has replacement cables but the cost may well be triple what they cost in Japan. I would contact EIFL or Audio Cubes to see if they can order one directly from Stax. I have bought then from EIFL but they can be very slow to respond...

The adhesive used to mount the new pads is very sticky so you should be able to just lift up the corners and press the pads back onto the baffle when you are done.

[Tachikoma]

The Stax version of refurb is to remove everything that could be broken and replace with parts from the current line. Not really what you want them to do with the vintage Lambdas is it...

Well, that could be the reason my LP is downright midrange-centric, rather than midrange-recessed

[spritzer]

Well, that could be the reason my LP is downright midrange-centric, rather than midrange-recessed

That could certainly be it if they were fitted with new drivers. Easy enough to check as what color is the grill underneath the earpad foam?

One thing that makes all of this even harder is the difference in glue used by Stax now and what they did use. Now they've gone all eco-friendly on us and the new stuff doesn't seem to be as strong.

[Tachikoma]

I can't check it without removing at least some of the adhesive (its not the "eco friendly" tape, and is much stronger than that), but I think the service record indicates that only the membranes were replaced. It only costed 10,000 yen, so a full driver replacement is somewhat unlikely.

[spritzer]

I can't check it without removing at least some of the adhesive (its not the "eco friendly" tape, and is much stronger than that), but I think the service record indicates that only the membranes were replaced. It only costed 10,000 yen, so a full driver replacement is somewhat unlikely.

There is no way to replace just the membranes on a Lambda series without major surgery. It's all glued together with some urethane based adhesive.

[Tachikoma]

Hmm... ok, so what is the grill colour I should be looking out for?

[spritzer]

Hmm... ok, so what is the grill colour I should be looking out for?

There is a protection screen next to the ear and from the beginning (Sr-Sigma 1977) it has been black but in 2003-4 they changed to silver so look for that. The stators were also uninsulated on the Lambda Pro but they are powder coated now so black in color compared to the gold copper color.

[n_maher]

Wuhoo, got my Koss to Stax adapter today so I'll finally get to fire up the 950s off of the SRD7 tonight.

[luvdunhill]

Wuhoo, got my Koss to Stax adapter today so I'll finally get to fire up the 950s off of the SRD7 tonight.

so, when are you going to make an external adjustable bias supply

[n_maher]

so, when are you going to make an external adjustable bias supply

Patience, patience. There's a slowly developing plan regarding long-term stat amplification.