The Headcase Stax thread

[dripf]

It's great to be listening again!

The clamp is tighter than before and the headband no longer loosely rises up. Can the headband failure be related to a moulding problem, like bad temperature?

[spritzer]

Having the joint on the top like that with no internal support really isn't the best move.  Still they have been doing it for 22 years so the failure rate must not be that high.  I've never had one fail but then again my Lambdas don't see a lot of use. 

[Arthrimus]

The lambda nova signature that I bought recently had a broken headband arc. Snapped clean in at the seam in the middle. IMO the original lambda arc design is more durable that the newer one. The plastic is more flexible. I wonder why they ever changed it.

[spritzer]

It's much cheaper to make, that's why.   

[keithpgdrb]

Considering the L700.  for those of you with your finger on the pulse, have there been any issues with it?  Spritzer mentioned not bothering to order one in the beginning because they always have revisions.

I live in the US, Chicago area (hi Kevin).  Is Yama the place to go for this?  

I'll likely use my srm1mk2 unless I find a screaming deal on a better amp.  Cross that terrifying bridge later.

[ALSO]

Just picked up a set of SR-1s and was curious to know what the experts think of them. To me, they sound as I expected, not as developed as more modern STAX but remarkable nonetheless.   Wanted to post pictures but am limited on my account.

[spritzer]

Just post the pics somewhere and link to them, imgur for example. 

I have three different SR-1's and I like them all but Stax has certainly made better.    It's remarkable how long they do last and two of mine fire up instantly.  The third one needs some work but it shows how electrostatics do last.  I spent a few hours yesterday listening to my Quad ESL57's which were made in 1968 and are 100% original except the PSU and crossover parts were refreshed a couple of years ago.  Keep them out of the sun and they will outlast any cone speaker... 

[ALSO]

Thank you Spritzer, I am also amazed by how well they hold up, and how good they sound, in spite of everything.  Haven't seen too many available, so was happy to have this chance to hear them.

Will post photos soon.

[ALSO]

[spritzer]

That's the last version so ca. 1967. 

[ALSO]

Thank you for this information, what features signal the particular version?

[spritzer]

This one has most of the parts of the SR-2 and SR-3 so a late one.  The early ones are very different, quite a bit smaller and made from very different materials. 

[ALSO]

Thank you Spritzer.  A big difference in sound between the earlier and later versions?  To me the SR-1 sounds like a more primitive version of but very similar to the SR-3.

[spritzer]

There is a difference in the sound but also in what earpads should be used with them.  I would also recommend refurbishing them as there are some things in the cups that might require attention. 

[ALSO]

The ear pads on my set look relatively new, so they may not be original.  Best to refurbish regardless?

[DefQon]

That one looks quite clean. Most SR-1's I've seen including my own are darkened yellow due to exposure to UV. Though I do have one of the earlier versions.

[spritzer]

One of mine actually shipped in that yellow color as they are like that on the inside as well.  The baffle on the other hand is the SR-3/5 color and shows no discoloration. 

As for the earpads, the first SR-1's had earpads similar to the HE90/HE60.  High and thin

 

[Arthrimus]

So when my Lambda Nova Signatures came in the right hand driver had shifted way off center on the baffle and the left hand driver had fully detached from it's baffle. I repositioned and reattached both drivers using the existing adhesive but I knew that wouldn't be a long term solution. So here we are, 3 days later and the left driver has become fully detached from it's baffle again. 

Spritzer, do I recall correctly that you once recommended polyurethane glue as a good option for reattaching drivers? 

[spritzer]

Pretty much any strong glue will work but I'd stay away from epoxy as it might do some harm to the materials.  I've also used contact adhesive which is very strong once it has been allowed to cure. 

[Arthrimus]

Thanks. I'll give contact adhesive a try. I think I've got some in a drawer somewhere around here.

Also is there a source for that really thin foam that Stax uses on the back of the drivers? The previous owner removed it from these and I don't like how it looks with nothing between the driver and the outer grill. Completely aesthetic I know but I'm picky about stupid things like that.

Side note, these LNS still sound surprisingly decent even with the driver detached. I figured they would sound like complete garbage in this state. 

Edited July 17, 2016 by Arthrimus

[spritzer]

You can get the foam from Stax repair centers.  It comes with the thin wool used in the Lambda/Lambda Pro

[DefQon]

Not exactly cheap though. My distributor quoted me $30AUD for a pair of foam backing for my LP. 

I've been in contact with some foam manufacturers over the past few years who can do 10ppi (pores per inch) foam (which is what the Stax one is) and most of them have just declined my quote or I have to order at least 1000sqm of the stuff minimum. Not exactly cheap as well, for foam.

[spritzer]

Look what just showed up.  I decided to treat myself for my birthday...   

Sounds brilliant with the HE90 and is pretty much required to use them.  Also the build quality is nothing short of stunning. 

Now I just need to address some imbalance in the HE90's as now that the left driver is up and running properly the right one is a bit too weak by comparison. 

[Kerry]

Beautiful!  That is a nice present you've bought yourself

[gepardcv]

Very pretty. So HE90+Carbon is not a good pairing?

Edited July 18, 2016 by gepardcv