The Headcase Stax thread

[4tray]

I want to keep my SR-X MK3 stock as possible (i will be replacing the pads obviously) but I can't figure out how to remove the headband at all. really dont want to damage these headphones, just want to get the headband clean. someone who wore these had gross hair.

[judo]

The less dangerous is  cutting the stiches on the headband I think. Or remove one of the side plates (with the L or R on it) it is glued to the black block and then loosen the screws under it and you can pull out the pole I think but I never tried.

 

 

Edited August 22, 2015 by judo

[4tray]

The less dangerous is  cutting the stiches on the headband I think. Or remove one of the side plates (with the L or R on it) it is glued to the black block and then loosen the screws under it and you can pull out the pole I think but I never tried.

i was worried cutting the stitches might be the safest option for the headphones themselves, i think i will just do the best job i can of cleaning it up and then i'll tie a bandana or something around the headband.

 

[nopants]

I tried birgir's suggested 009 mod on the SR-Omega and I'm getting tons of mileage out of it. just shove some foam in the back to increase the angle at which the drivers rest against your ear. Maybe it's the foam in the pads but by default they sit a little too close to your ears, similar to the 009.

This doesn't really help for the 007s, I imagine because the EP007 minimum thickness positions the driver further away despite having a shallower angle

[spritzer]

Adding a small angle usually helps. 

[wink]

Hmmm, This dude doesn't know the difference between 5pin Pro and 6 pin normal sockets.

Quote follows ebay linkie.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stax-Pro-Earspeakers-Headphones-Socket-Jack-Chassis-Panel-Mount-Custom-Made-/181841836386?hash=item2a569e3962

edit.  He has another ad for the 6pin socket here:-

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stax-Normal-Earspeakers-Headphones-Socket-Jack-Chassis-Panel-Mount-Custom-Made-/181843948902?hash=item2a56be7566

 

He only has these 2 postings on ebay.

Usable for retrofit into old apparatus or using in new earphone amplifiers.

This model is suitable for all Stax Normal series earspeakers (older 6-pin models).

Edited August 25, 2015 by wink
Update information

[spritzer]

I'd love to how he's going to retrofit these into old designs.  Not so easy to do... 

[wink]

but - they're black delrin.    that's gotta be worth a few brownie points.

 

It would be interesting to see how they perform as far as insertion force goes.

 

I also think the diagram of the dimensions is the one kevin posted here a while back.

 

Should kevin sue for royalties?

[spritzer]

They just copied our work, no doubt about that.  The insertion force is a big deal though which is why I adjust all of my sockets by hand.  Yup, I'm that nuts.

[4tray]

Is there any point in modding a SR-X MK3 to accept pro bias?

I have a feeling maybe i should just get rid of my SRM-323S and get something that can drive normal bias'd Staxen too. I enjoy my whole current setup but a lot of times I think I need to get an EQ in my setup because all the treble is so piercing

I am curious if it might just be my 323S. Man, I want some 007 or 009's, but I don't want to pay over $1k to offset all that harshness.

Edited August 25, 2015 by 4tray

[nopants]

is that even possible without breaking something

[spritzer]

To mod them to pro bias would mean replacing the drivers.  Almost impossible to mod the drivers themselves. 

The SRM-1, SRM-3 and SRM-313 (the older ones) all have normal bias outputs and similar circuits. 

[judo]

Is there any point in modding a SR-X MK3 to accept pro bias?

I have a feeling maybe i should just get rid of my SRM-323S and get something that can drive normal bias'd Staxen too. I enjoy my whole current setup but a lot of times I think I need to get an EQ in my setup because all the treble is so piercing

I am curious if it might just be my 323S. Man, I want some 007 or 009's, but I don't want to pay over $1k to offset all that harshness.

What are you driving with your srd7 the sound may depend on the quality and the power of the amp? The cause of the sr-x modding is the original sr-x pro is very rare. To get pro driver is hard because the source for example the sr-gamma pro is rare too. And the diy game factor you can ruin everithing easily. The pro sr-x is better first in the bass but not only, but I never thought it will be my main rig. This is the Omega beleivers' thread and some of sr-009 converts' I only getting the itches now to try an sr-007 mk1 I have (cheaper) stax phones for two decades, then the sr-007 was cheaper too unfortunately.

An other possibilites , If you are good in electronics you may build a normal bias circuit to your 323 but this must not be your first project because of the high voltage.

[4tray]

 

An other possibilites , If you are good in electronics you may build a normal bias circuit to your 323 but this must not be your first project because of the high voltage.

 

This i am much more inclined to do. I repair CRT's often, high voltage does not scare me.

i did not realize changing bias means changing drivers. in that case these SR-X will continue to remain stock. i did not want to mod them at all but thinking about it more i can't see any other way a bias conversion would work.

Is there a circuit people like to use for giving a pro-bias only amp like the 323 a normal bias output? this i would really love to have. i could hack something together if not but if it's been done then guidance can't hurt

Edited August 25, 2015 by 4tray

[judo]

Spritzer is the expert  he can help right off. I have done the opposite made pro bias  from a normal output and I will find some circuit in the web tomorrow.

[4tray]

thanks a ton!

i assume i will need to sacrifice a normal bias amp to get the plug i need then, huh?

[Laowei]

I saw Stax Teflon normal and pro bias jacks on AliExpress about a week ago, but now can find only the 5 pin pro model.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Teflon-Chassis-Jack-for-Stax-Headphones/1386475435.html

You might try checking there occasionally,or directly inquire with the vendor.

[DefQon]

They are there look harder.

[4tray]

Thanks a bunch, i'll get looking and get a couple. lack of normal bias jack is the one thing that kept me from wanting to get the 323, adding a normal bias jack to it would be wonderful

I'm still lookin for a good way to chill out the harsh sibilance on the treble on some songs but probably will just EQ my source.

Edit: the 323 should get fairly warm after about an hour of use right? just making sure it isn't a 100v labeled as 117v

Edited August 26, 2015 by 4tray

[PretentiousFood]

Bit of an annoying problem, but I seem to have noise on my bias supply. I'm hearing buzzing and the occasional low frequency hum, and it continues well after the amp is turned off. The hum disappears if I touch the chassis (or any other grounded chassis) or power the amp down, but the buzzing persists.

I can't find the schematic right now, but it's the original BH power supply from Headwize: a voltage doubler floating on an adjustable divider from B+ to ground. All wired on perfboard, so it's possible that there's a ground loop somewhere in there.

Any ideas?

[sorenb]

 

Bit of an annoying problem, but I seem to have noise on my bias supply. I'm hearing buzzing and the occasional low frequency hum, and it continues well after the amp is turned off. The hum disappears if I touch the chassis (or any other grounded chassis) or power the amp down, but the buzzing persists.

I can't find the schematic right now, but it's the original BH power supply from Headwize: a voltage doubler floating on an adjustable divider from B+ to ground. All wired on perfboard, so it's possible that there's a ground loop somewhere in there.

Any ideas?

broken cable? loose connection somewhere?

Edited August 26, 2015 by sorenb

[nopants]

I've had that problem too the only thing that worked 100% was wearing a grounding strap. happens on some headphones but not others, similar deal with amplifiers

[judo]

 

This i am much more inclined to do. I repair CRT's often, high voltage does not scare me.

i did not realize changing bias means changing drivers. in that case these SR-X will continue to remain stock. i did not want to mod them at all but thinking about it more i can't see any other way a bias conversion would work.

Is there a circuit people like to use for giving a pro-bias only amp like the 323 a normal bias output? this i would really love to have. i could hack something together if not but if it's been done then guidance can't hurt

There is a schematic about a 323 on the diy thread from spritzer 9 May 2014. I do not know what is the secondary voltage but I think it is about the same as of the Blue Hawaii amp (from Kevin Gilmore) so I think that bias supply should work, the psu is similar. You can find this on the unfortunately not living but archived first best headphone site, Headwize http://web.archive.org/web/20150314232458/http://headwize.com/?page_id=751.

I have a kgss with this psu and I want to make a  second bias supply too for I can change the bias independently in the two sockets. I have seen an srd7 and an srd7 mk2 (pro version) schematic here or on head-fi. I would see the sockets between the srd7 and the 323 are exchangable or not and I would make a pro bias for the srd7 perhaps.

[nopants]

maybe I should invest in the brown 007 pads to keep the colors coordinated. I think they're stretchier (aka flimsier) than their black counterparts.

If it's possible I'd like to get the 009/507 headband working with these too, might be a little more complicated than swapping pads.

[Dusty Chalk]

Wait, are you saying black doesn't go with something?