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Posted

I have SR404LE and SRM-T1. Although I am only just beginning to use it a lot, it sounds wonderful so far. My only concern is that the bass seems to be a bit loose in comparison with my speaker system (Meridian DSP). Should I blame the headphones or the driver unit?

If the driver unit I am thinking about the SRM-600 as a step up, but haven't seen many impressions of that on here - particularly in comparison with the other Stax amps such as the SRM717 and the other current models.

Suggestions for my next step? (I am only interested in amps with balanced inputs, and for the moment only Stax's own ones.)

Posted
The bass is rubbery and the treble is muted but there is no real bass hump other than a minor one in the low bass.

You mean in the SRM-600? Doesn't sound very nice. I would rather it was just flat...

Is the SRM-717 better? If so why?

Posted

The 717 is a far better design than the 600 and the 727 could be even better with a simple fix. More power in every way, not just voltage swing. The SRM-600 is nothing but a T1 save for some slight refinements in the PSU and using better tubes. I even have a T1 here which I'm going to turn into a 600 just for kicks. :)

Posted
The 717 is a far better design than the 600 and the 727 could be even better with a simple fix. More power in every way, not just voltage swing. The SRM-600 is nothing but a T1 save for some slight refinements in the PSU and using better tubes. I even have a T1 here which I'm going to turn into a 600 just for kicks. :)

Thanks a lot for the comparison. I guess I'll be looking for a 717 then...

Posted
Thanks a lot for the comparison. I guess I'll be looking for a 717 then...

Oops, two more questions:

- I've seen mention online of SRM-717 Mk2. Does that really exist?

- There is no version with switching of the inputs, is there? - So like my T1 it has two inputs and they are both "always on", parallel? (Layman, me.)

Posted

thanks for the comments, spritzer.

Said friend sent me some pictures of his amp. Seems to be a version somehow between your PP and my A, since it has the big cap in the low bias supply, but still uses the longer wire-bridges. Also he has those fancy wire-resistors and plastic wire clips, but not the solid wires. Lastly he dicovered a sticker on the bottom stating the build time (march 1987) and the names of three japanese inspectors :D

Bild: dsc00416zhn3.jpg - abload.de

Bild: dsc004182gwo.jpg - abload.de

Posted

I just my SRM-727 and SRM-300 from Kevin. Stax were being a pain as usual and had cut the 117V windings on the 727A but it took all of 3 minutes to solder in new wires. What a pointless thing to do...

Anyway, with it running at 240V all I can say is just how fucked up is the sound. The bass is just horrible, loose and woolly with textures which shouldn't be there. The midrange is distant and the whole sound lacks energy. It's just all a bit bloated and lifeless IMO. The gain is also way lower then it should be, I'm listening at 7 on the dial when normally on this source I never go past 5 on any of my Stax amps.

I'm going to try and hold on for a couple of days until I'll mod the amp and see how it compares. In simulation it is no competition but we'll see...

Oops, two more questions:

- I've seen mention online of SRM-717 Mk2. Does that really exist?

- There is no version with switching of the inputs, is there? - So like my T1 it has two inputs and they are both "always on", parallel? (Layman, me.)

Kevin was talking about a Mk2 but I've never seen it. Some users talked about some mysterious Mk2 version which was supposed to be superior but it was just sleazy salesman talk since the only thing Stax changed were the fets since they ran out of the duals.

There is a switch but it is only to ground the - part of the input for SE use. It wouldn't be too hard to put in a 4PDT ON-ON switch for real input switching though...

thanks for the comments, spritzer.

Said friend sent me some pictures of his amp. Seems to be a version somehow between your PP and my A, since it has the big cap in the low bias supply, but still uses the longer wire-bridges. Also he has those fancy wire-resistors and plastic wire clips, but not the solid wires. Lastly he dicovered a sticker on the bottom stating the build time (march 1987) and the names of three japanese inspectors :D

Bild: dsc00416zhn3.jpg - abload.de

Bild: dsc004182gwo.jpg - abload.de

That one is indeed very similar to mine. Those compensation caps near the input wiring are missing on mine though...

Posted

My headband on my LNS just cracked in half exactly in the center. How much would a replacement cost? Can I just buy it directly or would I need to send it to Stax to repair it? I live in Japan by the way, so I hope that would make it easier.

Posted

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3677[/ATTACH]

Does anyone know where I can get replacement parts for the circled part? The hard thin top part of the O2? The ones on my O2s are wearing out really fast for some odd reason.

post-2114-12951158195647_thumb.jpg

Posted
I saw a bunch of headband assemblies FS on ebay a few weeks ago. Not sure if they're still up.

They are asking for $100 so I will contact Stax directly. Thanks for the help everyone.

Posted
guys, anyone try hooking up esp950 to bhse ? and he60 too. just curious how does it sound

HE60 plus Blue Hawaii (regular) = awesome. I can only imagine it is the same with the BHSE. HE60/BH was my second favorite headphones setup.

Posted

so that would mean if regular BH is awesome then it should be same as KGSS as technically both are quite close?

Also noticed on Justin web that he's going to build another final 4 aristeaus. I know its a soul mate for orpheus but how does aristeaus fare with O2 or HE60 ?

Posted
so that would mean if regular BH is awesome then it should be same as KGSS as technically both are quite close?

Also noticed on Justin web that he's going to build another final 4 aristeaus. I know its a soul mate for orpheus but how does aristeaus fare with O2 or HE60 ?

I had an O2 and an Aristaeus and it sounded very good to my ears. Noticeably better than the Stax SRM-T1 I have and I only let it go because I wanted to move to a BHSE which I hear is a better match.

I've read posts and heard from others that the Aristaeus is on par with the KGSS when driving the O2's.

Posted
The BH and BHSE don't differ all that much though.
Wut? I'm going to have to disagree with you, there. I distinctly remember telling Justin, "you've really outdone yourself", and I was specifically referring to the BHSE, and in my head, I was thinking, with reference to the BH.
Posted

In terms of industrial design the BHSE is miles ahead of the original BH, no doubt there. What I was referring to is the circuit and how it has been altered by swapping in a new CCS.

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