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Posted

So after reading all 271 pages, my head is ready to explode....... I picked up some SR-Lambda's on this very forum. They are in good condition but still showing their age, and I would like to give them a bit of a spruce up. So I am just going to spill out all the info I have collected about such an endeavour, and open the floor to any corrections or comments!

Before I take anything apart, my understanding of the construction of the earspeaker is as follows:

1. Pads, also containing the 'mesh' that spans the speaker opening. Easily replaced.

2. A thin dust cover. Should remain in place.

3. Driver assembly. Should probably not be touched.

4. Backing foam. For dust protection and dampening, should remain in place.

5. Mineral wool; further dampening, can be removed if desired.

The current pads are OK, but have a couple of small splits forming and are perhaps a little flatter than they should be. So these seem to be the prime candidate for replacement, and any current Lambda pad can be used:

202: Same black colour, but a different material to the old pads. Better? Worse?

303: Grey, same material as old pads.

404: Shit brown colour, same material as old pads.

404LE: Nice black leather, but expensive and 'thinner' than the other pads.

All of the new pads seem to have a soft cotton mesh over the speaker opening, instead of the older plastic mesh.

The foam and mineral wool can be replaced if they are starting to disintegrate, but this is generally not necessary.

The whole headband assembly can be easily replaced with a current model one; same colours available as for the pads. But they are ridiculously expensive for what they are, and will lose the original SR-λ branding and serial number. Is there any way to just replace the fabric part of the headband? That is probably the only part that actually needs replacing.

The cable has collected enough nicks and kinks in its 30 years that I am seriously considering replacing it - IF I can get a suitable replacement. Now I don't trust myself enough to never accidentally plug the phones into a pro socket, so is it still possible to get a replacement cable with a normal bias plug?

If I do replace the cable it seems to be able to be done without opening the driver itself - it sounds like there are just three 'external' contacts. But I have to make absolutely sure to protect the driver assembly from spitting solder and flux, which will just melt right though the diaphragm.

Lastly, places to potentially buy all this crap......

Audiocubes 2

EIFL

Yama's

Hope that something comes up on Head-Case/Fi

Fleabay

So as I said, any corrections, comments or general additional info would be greatly appreciated! :)

Posted

The headphones are:

Pads,

Baffle

Drivers (all glued together)

Mineral rool (which you should never have to replace)

Foam lining

Cups

The SR-202 pads use a slightly different material to the old pads but it is close enough. The SR-303 and 404 pads share the same material. All of the new pads are thinner then the old ones.

The headpad is easy to replace, two screws on each side. I think I even have a black one stashed away if you should ever need one.

Any replacement cables would be 5 pin but the SR-202 will work. The drivers are soldered to the cable so extreme care is needed but use common sense and you will be fine.

Add KuboTen.com to that list. Craig is one of us and is more then fair with regards to pricing.

Posted
The headphones......

Sounds good, thanks for all that :)

I think I will start by sending an email to Yama's to ask for prices on the pads, foam, cable and headpad, then decide what to do from there. It is a bit of a bummer that all the pads are thinner these days...... my ears touch the mesh as it is, so I was hoping something new would be nice and thick :(

Posted

Beefy, I echo spritzer's comment about kuboten. He (Craig) is awesome. In my experience, Yama's sucks ass.

Don't worry too much about the new pads, I think they're kind of nice with the new mesh. Also, the foam backing, iirc, is not necessary to replace.

Also, I have worked on a few Staxen, including a memorable fight with my O2 headband assembly, and can vouch for their surprising toughness. That said, spritzer's common sense admonition is, as always, wise. I may have some price quotes from a while back on the stuff you're seeking. I'll try to dig them up.

Posted

You should be able to add some filler to the new earpads to make them more comfortable. The old pads could be just fine though and get some vinyl renewal stuff and wipe them down with it. Makes them a bit softer and is also good for restoring the rest of the Lambda frame. Just make sure it isn't the glossy stuff...

Posted
Why not take one for the team. It could be an interesting amp if a bit too expensive for my tastes.

Well, I did it. Now I guess I need more 'stats back on Das Boot. I think I'm gonna go just HE 60's for now. I miss the transients!

Posted
Don't worry too much about the new pads, I think they're kind of nice with the new mesh. Also, the foam backing, iirc, is not necessary to replace.

Good to know :)

I'll try to dig them up.

If you could, that would be handy. But please don't spend any time on it if you can't find them immediately......

You should be able to add some filler to the new earpads to make them more comfortable. The old pads could be just fine though and get some vinyl renewal stuff and wipe them down with it. Makes them a bit softer and is also good for restoring the rest of the Lambda frame. Just make sure it isn't the glossy stuff...

They are actually really soft still, but do have splits forming. Though mostly I want to get rid of the old mesh.

But before I do buy the pads, any suggestions for vinyl treatment products? Back in Oz we would use Armor All for vinyl surfaces in the house and car, but it isn't the sort of thing I would necessarily want on my head! :o

Posted
Heh, that's right, you jettisoned the 'stats a while back, right?

Yeah, my room got flooded, plus I wanted to thin some of the enormous amount of money I had stashed in my room. I'm rolling with HD 800's, ED 9's, and PS 1000's with a Lehman and a Raptor with better tubes (all fed through a Spectral DMC 15SSHA). I know this enough to be shunned from the club, but I think I can manage with my HE 60's alone, and maybe some 404's if the mood strikes me.

The cool addition has been the Reimyo DAP 999 DAC. It is one bad ass little mother fucker! Especially since they invented (I think) the K2 processing on XRCD's.

Cheers.

Posted
They are actually really soft still, but do have splits forming. Though mostly I want to get rid of the old mesh.

The foam mesh or the metal mesh? The metal is a part of the drivers but you can just leave out the foam or put in some acoustically transparent cloth.

But before I do buy the pads, any suggestions for vinyl treatment products? Back in Oz we would use Armor All for vinyl surfaces in the house and car, but it isn't the sort of thing I would necessarily want on my head! :o

I use Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care (made for cars) which has a mild gloss and works a treat on old Lambda parts.

Posted
The foam mesh or the metal mesh? The metal is a part of the drivers but you can just leave out the foam or put in some acoustically transparent cloth.

Whichever mesh is blackish in colour, and the outermost part aside from the pads. I thought it was actually part of the pads, based on the new pads coming with 'replacement' cloth mesh.

My ears do just touch it, and it is a bit irritating.

I use Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care (made for cars) which has a mild gloss and works a treat on old Lambda parts.

I'll take a trip down to Canadian Tire and see what they've got. Thanks again! :)

Posted

That's the metal mesh your ears are touching and I wouldn't recommend removing it. The new pads come with a cloth insert which is put inside the baffle cutout so you could probably DIY something similar.

Posted
Before I take anything apart, my understanding of the construction of the earspeaker is as follows:

1. Pads, also containing the 'mesh' that spans the speaker opening. Easily replaced.

2. A thin dust cover. Should remain in place.

3. Driver assembly. Should probably not be touched.

4. Backing foam. For dust protection and dampening, should remain in place.

5. Mineral wool; further dampening, can be removed if desired.

I really, really cant recommend removing the mineral wool damping pad.

Posted

If you like MOAR BASSESS then it's ok to remove it but I like it in place as well. I must be getting crazy though but the best Lambda I ever had was one made from Sigma leftovers and thus with no damping. It did have the dreaded foam though... :rolleyes:

Posted
I'm mystified that that pic would offend more than the usual language that is the norm here. Didn't see that one coming.

Many people in general have similar cultural beliefs about language and nudity, nudity being far worse. I would be upset if that picture loaded at work. Lets move on to more Stax stuff.

Posted
Many people in general have similar cultural beliefs about language and nudity, nudity being far worse. I would be upset if that picture loaded at work. Lets move on to more Stax stuff.

Well, it was Electrostatic...

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