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Posted
Did he really do this? :rofl:

Yup, AN Silver caps serial connected with some cheap orange drops. :palm:... Hmmm one wasn't enough so :palm:

I'm on the verge of getting a Stax setup. Since I don't want to commit major funds for a BHSE/WES/$$$ amp yet, I'm going for Omega II (mk1) + one of the Stax amps. Which of SRM-007TA, SRM-727, SRM-007T is most recommended?

Also, if I get the tube energizers, which tubes are worth checking out?

I'll be using a Stello DA100 DAC. For reference, I like HP-2 and K1000 sound. At this point, I don't know what to expect out of the Omega yet - it may become my main phones or complement my dynamics.

The standard recommended Stax amp is the 717 since it is quite frankly by far the best amp Stax have made in a long time. The 727 isn't as good but if you find one cheaply I'd go for it. The tube amps put me to sleep with the SR-007 so I can't recommend them.

Posted
Are there any tubes that can bring the tube amps to life? Guess I'll have to search around ...

Toshiba 6FQ7 is what I use now, following basically what tube was recommended and sold to me by Spritzer. Its great, though I don't expect the T1 to properly drive the SR-007.

Posted

I noticed that some tubes (Toshiba, RCA clear tops) give me T1S more definition on the bottom end and play better with louder volumes. I guess they have better ability to handle higher voltages.

Posted

That can very well be the reason why we like them in the Stax amps. A normal 6CG7 application doesn't have voltages anywhere close to the Stax amps.

Posted

Hmmm looks like we have a new contender for the magic tweak crown. ;) Just serial connecting some Wima caps will not get you the crown since one cap has to cost at least 400$ and the other less then 1$. Otherwise you are just being practical...

Posted
Hmmm looks like we have a new contender for the magic tweak crown. ;) Just serial connecting some Wima caps will not get you the crown since one cap has to cost at least 400$ and the other less then 1$. Otherwise you are just being practical...

I don't know why, but people use serial caps for global feedback compensation quite often. It cannot be that small values aren't available (<5pF) as they are in mica. I dunno why really... I bet your BHSE has some unpopulated locations in this spot as well :)

Posted
The standard recommended Stax amp is the 717 since it is quite frankly by far the best amp Stax have made in a long time. The 727 isn't as good but if you find one cheaply I'd go for it. The tube amps put me to sleep with the SR-007 so I can't recommend them.

Are there any tubes that can bring the tube amps to life? Guess I'll have to search around ...

Maybe this is my problem (besides the voltage issue). Hmmm... I should be receiving the transformer tomorrow to hear any improvements (if any, that is). The thing is, I am still wowed by them when I first connect them, but then something happens to the cheapie transformer the seller included. Over time, the sound gets kinda boring. I think the transformer just wasn't made for long-term use. If this doesnt work, I will sell the 007ta amp (with transformer), and get something up to the job.

Posted
Justin may not like that.

.. use PTFE trimmers :)

Better not say anything more until after I get the amp... :indra: Speaking of caps, I was looking for some ES-1 pics and I stumbled across some pics of the HEV90. I never noticed it before but it has Wima MKS4 coupling caps. Sennheiser didn't even spring for the polypropylene units in their "TOTL" design... :palm:

Maybe this is my problem (besides the voltage issue). Hmmm... I should be receiving the transformer tomorrow to hear any improvements (if any, that is). The thing is, I am still wowed by them when I first connect them, but then something happens to the cheapie transformer the seller included. Over time, the sound gets kinda boring. I think the transformer just wasn't made for long-term use. If this doesnt work, I will sell the 007ta amp (with transformer), and get something up to the job.

How are your soldering skills? If you are up for adding a couple of wires, some light desoldering you could just switch the amp over to 117v. Stax have been known to mix things up so we need a picture of the inside of the unit to be sure, but changing the voltage should be easy to do.

Posted

Apparently my first set of 6CA7 are weak. :( They're the quad labeled 26mA, the leftmost four boxes. At least I now have stronger sets, and I'll save a quad for use in the BHSE.

It seems that many packages from China use this horrible type of crumbly styrofoam that's probably not very environmentally-friendly. I remember the He Audio Jade also came boxed with the same type of crappy styrofoam. Cheap, crappy boxes and crappy packaging materials.

Treasure6CA7.jpg

Posted
Apparently my first set of 6CA7 are weak. :( They're the quad labeled 26mA, the leftmost four boxes.

I wouldn't worry about those numbers. All that is important is that they are the same per quad.

Posted

Ah, OK.

If only all my Mullard EL34 xf2 quads matched up nicely. The EL34 metal base types are even worse, it's very difficult to find a nice matched quad, whether new or used.

Posted
The EL34 metal base types are even worse, it's very difficult to find a nice matched quad, whether new or used.

That's not surprising since they haven't been made for 50 years... ;)

Posted

Yeah, sorry for stating the obvious. I was just blabbing out loud, daydreaming.

Hey, if you're a "good little boy" :P and do a good job with the SP ES-1 dissection ;D, and maybe somehow arranges things so that one of those upcoming DIY elecrostatic amps currently being tested lands in my lap (with maybe a famous builder or all sorts of super upgrades and whatnot), maybe a certain someone who has some extra 6CA7 tubes might send some off to you. :cool:

Posted

Well, Kane did send some my way already, including a set of XF2's and vintage 6CA7's. ;)

If I ever get one of these amps to work well enough that it can be sent out on loan the you are welcome to try it out. It's just easier to stick with the 230v area's since I'm too lazy to put in a voltage switch...

Posted

To my surprise, the tracking number I thought for delivery today did not belong to the transformer, but rather to my phono stage. When I went to check the status of my transformer order, it says "cancelled." Indeed, I didn't get charged for it.

Now my options are:

(1) order another one elsewhere

(2) buy a soldering gun plus whatever materials I need, take some internal pics, and hope you guys can guide me through changing the voltage of the oo7ta amp.

What to do, what to do... I am not liking how the 007's sound right now.

Or should I just sell the amp and save up for a BHSE... >:D (as if I could... sigh...)

Posted

I hope I don't brick the thing. I will take pics of it sometime this weekend. Hopefully someone here will be patient enough to walk me through it. never DIY'ed anything electronic before (I know this is simple to most of you, but I have no clue how shit works).

Posted
Well, Kane did send some my way already, including a set of XF2's and vintage 6CA7's. ;)

If I ever get one of these amps to work well enough that it can be sent out on loan the you are welcome to try it out. It's just easier to stick with the 230v area's since I'm too lazy to put in a voltage switch...

Shocking, including those tubes with the amp! And there were those 6SN7 metal base too in the photo!

I admit to experiencing some tube envy. It hurts, but at least it isn't as devastating as amp envy. :D

For some reason the HE60 is sounding especially pleasant right now, with WE396, Sylvania 6SN7W metal base and the Treasure 6CA7. The Treasure 6CA7 seems to be thinner and less full-bodied than the Mullard xf2. Bass quantity is a bit less, though it is also quite tight and accurate. The xf2 is hard to beat.

Posted
...(2) buy a soldering gun plus whatever materials I need, take some internal pics, and hope you guys can guide me through changing the voltage of the oo7ta amp.

First off, don't buy a soldering gun. They are for large scale soldering and not for electronics. A cheap soldering station will be more then enough, plus some good solder and a desoldering pump, basic manual one is just fine. We really need pics to see how this amp is configured so pop the top off and it would also be a good idea to loosen up the back panel as well. The Stax amps are all built on an internal frame so all the panels are easy to remove.

Shocking, including those tubes with the amp! And there were those 6SN7 metal base too in the photo!

Those are 6BL7GTA's I believe.

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