The Monkey Posted January 24, 2009 Report Posted January 24, 2009 Tell me about it. But it does work as a replacement, correct?
spritzer Posted January 24, 2009 Report Posted January 24, 2009 But it does work as a replacement, correct? All the dimensions are identical but you have to remove the metal inserts on the cups since the pins are much larger on the new forks if you are going to replace the whole arc assembly.
spritzer Posted January 24, 2009 Report Posted January 24, 2009 You could, in theory at least, use the old forks with the new arc. They are just held in place with a single screw on each side but I've never tried to do this. Is your old arc broken? As for the Jade... they are growing on me after the mods. They are still abnormally forward which and have weird tonality which is probably due to the membrane and I don't want to swap that out. The midrange is very nice though there is something that's bothering me. I can't quite put my finger on it but there appears to be a mild texture on all voices. The bass is more subdued and better controlled but more like the Lambdas then the Omegas. I could try to damp the drivers somewhat but the less times I open up the housing the better as the lead wires on the drivers could break and that would be a PITA to fix...
faust3d Posted January 24, 2009 Report Posted January 24, 2009 Did you try to dampen them mineral wool ala Lambda Pro? That could even out the FR and subdue vibrations and reflections that could be causing this strange coloration.
spritzer Posted January 24, 2009 Report Posted January 24, 2009 Nope I didn't try that. I was going to try air damping them via solid mylar dust covers but the drivers can't take being handled too much so I dropped the idea.
Deadneddz Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Spritzer, When you described the jades initially before mods, you stated that they displayed a very 2d image, lacking depth. Now, i've never heard a really highend speaker setup. But everytime i listen to speakers, i notice their uncanny ability to portray depth because of their actual ability to produce sound over a large area of actual space(compared to headphones) Speakers---------------------------------------->Ears Headphones---->Ears (arrows being actual space between the transducer and ears) This space that speakers have, allow instruments and voices to sort of "sail" across, which give music incredible energy and realism to me. But high end headphones have given me this amazing feeling of depth "extension" within its housings, to the same degree as speakers but far more focused than any speakers i've listened to. Which is why i love the O2s so damn much. Just wanted to know if you know why the jades, lacked this ability initially, and if this is more of a design issue of the headphone, or an issue that can be remedied with a better source perhaps.
The Monkey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 These fucking 007 pads are going to drive me out of my goddamn mind. I can't get them on. Fuck. Someone give me a clue. I can get them over the spring, but it is impossible to get them to bite over the black inner ring (if that makes a bit of sense to anyone). Also, I stripped one of the fucking screws that holds in the headband so I can't get it out. Any suggestions about how to deal with THAT nightmare? Fuck.
Duggeh Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 I used a cheap (thin) butterknife to get the pads back on. It is tricky, but just requires a steady hand (fingers to grip each bit that goes back in as you feed more through) and patience. Once you've got more than half back under the rim you can gently rotate the pad to help the rest. I've never removed the headband so I can't offer any help there I'm afraid. Perhaps some kind of putty, fill the stripped hole and when it hardens drive the screw into it creating a new thread.
The Monkey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Thanks Doug. Got the pads on. Can you remind me what the "default" orientation is for the pads? In other words, the pad is shaped like a "D." In which direction is the "D" supposed to be facing by default? Also, is it ok that I can see some of the outline of the spring through the pad? Also, I wasn't clear, it's the head of the screw that I stripped, not the thread itself. I guess the putty idea still applies, right?
The Monkey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 ok, this thread is helpful re pad orientation.
faust3d Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 That is how I have the pads rotated: This fit gives me the best seal.
The Monkey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 lol, wait, I can't tell. Is the straight part of the D in front of or behind your ear?
faust3d Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Use the seam to help you position them. The straight part of the D should be behind and slightly below your ears.
Duggeh Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 I have the seam closer to horizontal than angled up, when my hair was longer the opposite was true. It's much dependent on your head and how you manipulate the arc.
The Monkey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Thanks Doug. Gang, this screw is going to be tough to get out. It's one of the pair of very small screws that attaches the arc/headband assembly through the brown plastic of the assembly to the metal ear cups. They are phillips head and they are small. And now I've managed to strip one of the heads. Any thoughts about how to get it out? I am not too keen on the thought of drilling it out given its proximity to, well, everything.
Fungi Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Buy throwaway screwdriver and krazy glue to the screw? (I can't take responsibility for this completely untested unverified unprofessional idea)
Duggeh Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Ah the screw head is fubar, i thought the hole was. I also would use glue, but a replacement screw would be the best thing. Stax will probably ask $40 for a set of 4.
The Monkey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 The glue idea is pretty good. I just wish the damn thing wasn't so small. That will also make finding a replacement more difficult.
spritzer Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Just wanted to know if you know why the jades, lacked this ability initially, and if this is more of a design issue of the headphone, or an issue that can be remedied with a better source perhaps. The portrayal of soundstage depth and over all size has a lot to do with how the drivers utilize the ear or rather how they are positioned in relation to the ear. The housing also plays a large part so I don't think that a better source helps in this regard.
cetoole Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Thanks Doug. Gang, this screw is going to be tough to get out. It's one of the pair of very small screws that attaches the arc/headband assembly through the brown plastic of the assembly to the metal ear cups. They are phillips head and they are small. And now I've managed to strip one of the heads. Any thoughts about how to get it out? I am not too keen on the thought of drilling it out given its proximity to, well, everything. There are special screwdrivers you can buy which have sharp tips that actually cut into the metal and are meant for removing screws where the head is stripped. I think they are called screw extractors, but you may want to look into getting one of these. No idea where the screw is on the O2, but depending on location, you may be able to get it out with vice grips too.
spritzer Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 It's next to the two metal arcs and it secures the headband. I would just drill it out and then use a wisegrip to remove the stub.
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