The Headcase Stax thread

[spritzer]

I would just leave them in if they work fine

[ericj]

When i pulled the main board out of my sra-3s further so i could work on it more comfortably i finally noticed that the reason the cards fell out in shipping was probably the fact that both slots were cracked at the bottom end. 

I've fixed them with superglue and wire ties, but it looks like you can still get a direct replacement: 

https://mou.sr/411lhxZ

[Oneguy]

53 minutes ago, ericj said:

When i pulled the main board out of my sra-3s further so i could work on it more comfortably i finally noticed that the reason the cards fell out in shipping was probably the fact that both slots were cracked at the bottom end. 

I've fixed them with superglue and wire ties, but it looks like you can still get a direct replacement: 

https://mou.sr/411lhxZ

Exact same issue on one of my SRA-3S slots. I used a zip and superglue as well. If I remember correctly there was also evidence of foam on the top lid that I assume was used to keep them in place. I wasn’t sure if this was like that from the factory or something another user added in along the way. Did yours have evidence of foam being glued to the lid where the cards are?
 

Good find on the replacement slot.

[ericj]

1 hour ago, Oneguy said:

Exact same issue on one of my SRA-3S slots. I used a zip and superglue as well. If I remember correctly there was also evidence of foam on the top lid that I assume was used to keep them in place. I wasn’t sure if this was like that from the factory or something another user added in along the way. Did yours have evidence of foam being glued to the lid where the cards are?
 

Good find on the replacement slot.

 

Ah, i used ~22awg solid copper and twisted the ends until it closed the sides with the superglue. I guess the drawer full of wire was closer than the container of zip ties. 

I kinda feel like cyanoacrylates aren't what they used to be -- "bonds instantly" used to mean i didn't have to clamp it for half an hour. sigh. 

I don't see evidence that there was foam holding them in at any point but i have some dense foam i will install. 

All of the resistors in my unit look fine to me. Nothing ran hot enough to show. I suppose i should lift a leg of the one big carbon comp resistor to see if it is still in spec. 

Can anyone fill me in on the adjustment procedure for the trimpots? 

[Oneguy]

1 hour ago, ericj said:

 

I kinda feel like cyanoacrylates aren't what they used to be -- "bonds instantly" used to mean i didn't have to clamp it for half an hour. sigh. 

 

I feel the same way. I buttoned it up after the glue and zip tie. If I eventually remember when I get back home, I may see how well it bonded and remove the zip tie but I am in no rush since it’s working without issues. 

[ericj]

1 hour ago, Oneguy said:

I feel the same way. I buttoned it up after the glue and zip tie. If I eventually remember when I get back home, I may see how well it bonded and remove the zip tie but I am in no rush since it’s working without issues. 

I would just leave the ties in place. There's no downside. The only reason I'm not tying the other end is because that might just mean it breaks somewhere harder to fix. 

[Pirx]

I have broken SRA-3s too, it is still waiting for my time.
What about creating independent topic for this amp for discussion?

[spritzer]

I would always recommend swapping out the card slots on these as they all fall apart.  Also, watch out for the transformers leaking... I found that out the hard way as they aren't grounded. 

Wasn't there just one pot per channel on these?  Should be the balance so go to each tube anode and adjust for 0VDC. 

[ericj]

11 hours ago, Pirx said:

I have broken SRA-3s too, it is still waiting for my time.
What about creating independent topic for this amp for discussion?

 

That sounds reasonable, maybe in the diy subforum?