Sisterray Posted February 8, 2019 Report Posted February 8, 2019 The saga continues... All seemed fine today until I turned off the amp & pulled the plug from the jack. The hum rose quickly in level & changed in timbre. It then disappeared as the plug left the jack. I could not hear any residual hum in the earspeakers after that. It seems to be an amp issue, for sure. Is it failing?
spritzer Posted February 8, 2019 Report Posted February 8, 2019 Yup, sounds like it. Could me a marginal part like a cap or something like that. Well either that or the PSU is failing. It's not the 100V unit, right?
Sisterray Posted February 8, 2019 Report Posted February 8, 2019 The wall wart says 120V. I presume the screws are beneath the rubber feet. They are stuck-on with tough adhesive. That SRM-1/Mk-2 is again looking attractive.
Sisterray Posted February 8, 2019 Report Posted February 8, 2019 I opened it up, and everything looked clean. I was hoping to see something obviously wrong, but there wasn’t anything that looked scorched or singed. I lack the expertise to go probing. I’m a kit builder & modder, not a troubleshooter.
Sisterray Posted February 9, 2019 Report Posted February 9, 2019 I just bought that unit I mentioned earlier. $400. I expect to do work on it, especially recapping.
federicopol Posted February 10, 2019 Report Posted February 10, 2019 Hello, i am new here and since the Mafia reside here... i'm gonna ask for a help to the Padrino or some of his associates.... I recently bought a sra-12s that needs some love (a recap, a pot cleaning and an adding of a pro bias out), i got a discount on the original asking price and i got gifted a pair of stax sigma Normal bias ("because i don't know what to do with them if i sell the amplifier"). The Sigma are really ok, the drivers are ok, they simply need a cleaning AND a new damping because the original glass wool dampening have been removed. My question is: What can i use for remake the dampening? (I llan to use quilt batting, is that ok?) What shape the dampening should have? (Should i cover all the planes except the driver one, am i right?) And there seems to be a pair of resistor attached to the cable connecting the driver, are they normal? Thank you very much.
spritzer Posted February 10, 2019 Report Posted February 10, 2019 Those are actually silistors and I'd remove them at this point. They don't age well and at 30+ years old... jut them off. The damping is on all sides of the housing and needs to be very dense or it won't work at all. 1
federicopol Posted February 10, 2019 Report Posted February 10, 2019 44 minutes ago, spritzer said: Those are actually silistors and I'd remove them at this point. They don't age well and at 30+ years old... jut them off. The damping is on all sides of the housing and needs to be very dense or it won't work at all. Thank you very much, i'll remove them and try with something dense. By the way in my sra12s i have a +640V rail on the PS that feeds the amplifer board. Using that 640v point and a 2 resistors voltage divider to create the pro bias voltage is the normal way to do that? Ir therebis a better way? Thank you very much and sorry for the newbie requests...
spritzer Posted February 10, 2019 Report Posted February 10, 2019 That is the best way. You could do something fancy and regulate the bias but I wouldn't bother. 1
Hi-Fi-Anatomia Posted February 10, 2019 Report Posted February 10, 2019 What are the sonic differences between the 007A 2.9 and the SR-007 mk1 (I know there is multiple versions, one of the better ones please). Sorry to intrude, thanks for help!
federicopol Posted February 12, 2019 Report Posted February 12, 2019 Hello, while i wait for some parts for restoring my sra12s i made some new earpads for my sigmas. I also made the internal dampening. Following the advice of Spritzer i used the most dense material i could find. By pure luck the material and quantities i used seems to be ok. The soundstage seems here, definitely the best of the headphones i own. The bass is present and clear so i am pretty happy of the final result. I decided to substitute the earpads because i don't feel comfortable using earpads that have been used by someone else for 30 years... I decided to not use a spare pair of lambda earpads because of the different shape of the lower back part. I made them in leather following the procedure Stax (or their supplier) probably used. I used an embroidery machine to sew the ear oval on the reverse side of fabrics, then i reversed the fabrics. With the fabrics now on the right side i added some low heigh memory foam cutted a couple of mm smaller than the finished earpad. Now i used the embroidery machine to close the earpads. Cutted the excess leather and here they are. They are a bit bigger than the original ones and are less stuffed, nothing dramatical but i will remade them the next time i have time to use the embroidery machine. The same method can be used to make them with a sewing machine for the oval and an overlock machine using 3 threads and a short lenght stitch. 7
Mach3 Posted February 24, 2019 Report Posted February 24, 2019 Which is consider a better driver, Megatron or the DIY SRM-T2. Anyone got spec on both to list side by side to compare?
Sisterray Posted February 25, 2019 Report Posted February 25, 2019 The SRM-1/Mk-2 has been played everyday for two weeks, and I am very pleased with it. Definitely a more solid sound than that of the SRM-252S. I need to get ready to do the recapping. I am considering replacing that weird & frustrating volume control with a Goldpoint 47-position attenuator, however, I do not know whether it will fit. 1
puretaka Posted February 26, 2019 Report Posted February 26, 2019 As a matter of curiosity, what's the rough range of power draw (W) in electrostat amps? I assume the heavy hitters like KGSS Carbon and BHSE use significantly more power?
Hi-Fi-Anatomia Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 So I had the 009S for a bit but I went and got the modern 007A instead, wow.... Even though in its current state its underdriven (353X) It absolutely smokes every other Stax can I've heard or owned. Way better than the 009S and 009 and a meaningful step up from the L700. I just have to get a proper amp now (haha) 3
Spychedelic Whale Posted March 1, 2019 Report Posted March 1, 2019 (edited) On 2/28/2019 at 12:16 AM, Hi-Fi-Anatomia said: So I had the 009S for a bit but I went and got the modern 007A instead, wow.... What is the serial number, from what I understand the one to get now a days is the sz3? Edited March 1, 2019 by Spychedelic Whale
Hi-Fi-Anatomia Posted March 2, 2019 Report Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Spychedelic Whale said: What is the serial number, from what I understand the one to get now a days is the sz3? Spritzer may need to barge in on this one but as far as I can tell the SZ2/SZ3 turns out to not mean much. Seems to me that the SZ3 are the modern black international ones while the SZ2 can be any of the Japanese silver ones. Mine is an SZ2 007A (silver japanese) but the serial is 23XX and its brand new so most definitely the 007A 2.9. On 2/27/2019 at 7:24 PM, Mach3 said: Is your 007A port modded? And it was. I port modded it after one song. The lower mid-bass emphasis and the one note bass tone made it really annoying. I actually was going to leave it unmodded for a bit to become "accustomed" to the stock sound so to speak. But that mid-bass was to shitty for me to leave it stock. Edited March 2, 2019 by Hi-Fi-Anatomia Elaboration and further detailing 1
Sisterray Posted March 3, 2019 Report Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) I came across a video on YouTube on fitting very different, muff-style pads to the 207, using adhesive sheets & printed adaptor plates. Worthwhile? I would expect the sound to be quite different after that mod. On my 207 pair, the pad profile appears to be angled. I’m considering using 507 pads because they are leather. Those seems to be flat. Would I alter the sound significantly by using the 507 pads? Those adaptor plates feature ports. Do they really make a difference in the bass response? I’m very satisfied with bass reproduction as they are. Does it become muddy or boomy due to the ports? I don’t understand how they work since the drivers are completely “open”. What’s being vented? Edited March 3, 2019 by Sisterray
Scgorg Posted March 3, 2019 Report Posted March 3, 2019 Porting the front volume of a headphone shifts the bass response upwards, more midbass less subbass. The extent to which it is affected depends on port size. As for what is being vented you have the front volume (facing your ear) and the back volume (facing outwards). For the sake of bass extension only the front volume needs to be closed, which is why open headphones can have good bass extension, in other words the back of the drivers are completely "open" as you state it but the front of the driver is sealed to your head with the pads. I can't answer your question about the 507 pads, but I'm sure someone else can chime in/have experience. Personally I would not vent the front volume, 507 pads seem like a much better bet.
Torpedo Posted March 3, 2019 Report Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) What do you mean with "front volume", the air chamber in front of the driver, between it and the ear? Edited March 3, 2019 by Torpedo
Scgorg Posted March 3, 2019 Report Posted March 3, 2019 Basically yes, the front volume is the part of the driver enclosure that is sealed to your head.
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