luvdunhill Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 socketed relays. Now, why didn't I think of that?
Tachikoma Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 Digging. Using an ear wax remover though xD Lets see... I'm roughly up to the depth where i should see a screw but there isn't one in sight. Looks like someone's decided to fill one of the screw holes with this paste =_= RARRGH (needs the enclosure for other drivers) I feel like dropping some acetone on the paste to dissolve it, but I'm going to end up dissolving the plastic as well aren't I >.>
The Monkey Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 Well, I would have to hear the KGSS/O2 before I would think of selling off any of the other stat rig. What source would you recommend for the KGSS/O2 combo other than me sending my PS Audio for the Cullen mods that I was planning on? Ayre QB-9, Bel Canto DAC3, Electrocompaniet ECD-1, or North Star M192 MKI, etc, at a minimum I'd guess. Or maybe the HeadRoom Ultra DAC. It's time for you to get a serious source to go with your serious amps. Agree with the above recs, except for the UDAC, which I don't think paired that well with the 'stats. I would also suggest looking into the Bryston BDA-1. It's a nice smooth DAC. Basically, there are a lot of very good DACs in the 1000 - 1500 price range. I suggest getting a used one. Better bang for the buck.
cetoole Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 I feel like dropping some acetone on the paste to dissolve it, but I'm going to end up dissolving the plastic as well aren't I >.> Yeah, I wouldnt do that.
Tachikoma Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 Ah, there was a screw underneath it all after all. I was hoping to get inside the driver to reseat the membranes or something, to fix this imbalance but it turns out the driver is next to impossible to take apart.
spritzer Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 I just bought an SR-3, and there's this white paste or something where the 3rd screw should be. How do I take this thing apart now? Most of the old Stax phones had one of the three screws covered like that to keep people out of the headphone. socketed relays. Now, why didn't I think of that? Yeah... did you look closely at the amp? 3/4 of a Woo GES to be more exact but only fucked up with bad tubes for the job and some "tweaks" for 4 times the price. We both know how much that "preamp" is worth...
aardvark baguette Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 Basically, there are a lot of very good DACs in the 1000 - 1500 price range. I suggest getting a used one. Better bang for the buck. What would you know?
Iron_Dreamer Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 Why would you hire such a fuckup then? It's this fuckup's first tube amp
Duggeh Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 Digging. Using an ear wax remover though xD Lets see... I'm roughly up to the depth where i should see a screw but there isn't one in sight. Looks like someone's decided to fill one of the screw holes with this paste =_= RARRGH (needs the enclosure for other drivers) I feel like dropping some acetone on the paste to dissolve it, but I'm going to end up dissolving the plastic as well aren't I >.> I put SFI drivers in a SR-3N housing. Wasn't a patch on the results using the Goldring housing. Are the SR-3 drivers working?
blubliss Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 My SR-Omega seems to have developed a very soft clicking noise in the right driver which comes and goes. Can be heard in soft passages. I do not hear it in the HE90 so far, so not the amp or tubes I guess? Please tell me this is not the driver failing. Maybe dust?
Tachikoma Posted August 13, 2009 Report Posted August 13, 2009 I put SFI drivers in a SR-3N housing. Wasn't a patch on the results using the Goldring housing. Are the SR-3 drivers working? They are, sort of. The right channel is a lot softer, thats all. I can adjust for it on the amp, and hope it doesn't deteriorate I guess. I meant to transplant my SR-5 drivers into them, which should work fine since they both share the same enclosure design.
Tachikoma Posted August 13, 2009 Report Posted August 13, 2009 Anyway, what are the differences between the SR-3 and SR-3N (I think I've gotten the older SR-3)? And is the SR-3 meant to be particularly inefficient? (The volume I'm using for the SR-3 is almost 2x what I'd use for the SR-X)
spritzer Posted August 13, 2009 Report Posted August 13, 2009 My SR-Omega seems to have developed a very soft clicking noise in the right driver which comes and goes. Can be heard in soft passages. I do not hear it in the HE90 so far, so not the amp or tubes I guess? Please tell me this is not the driver failing. Maybe dust? I can't be sure what's going on there. Certainly could be the amp but first job for any SR-Omega owner is to buy some allen (hex) metric keys so that you can make sure the housing is firmly fixed together. Anyway, what are the differences between the SR-3 and SR-3N (I think I've gotten the older SR-3)? And is the SR-3 meant to be particularly inefficient? (The volume I'm using for the SR-3 is almost 2x what I'd use for the SR-X) No Stax headphones vary that much!!
blubliss Posted August 13, 2009 Report Posted August 13, 2009 I can't be sure what's going on there. Certainly could be the amp but first job for any SR-Omega owner is to buy some allen (hex) metric keys so that you can make sure the housing is firmly fixed together. Thanks I will check that out. That sounds like a plausible cause for the sound. The HE90 does not make the sound so it is probably the SR-Omega themselves.
Tachikoma Posted August 14, 2009 Report Posted August 14, 2009 I guess either the contacts inside the driver have oxidised to hell, or the cable has. You wouldn't know a way to remove the bolts that hold the driver together in a relatively safe fashion, would you?
Quadrangulum Posted August 15, 2009 Report Posted August 15, 2009 I just received a SRD-7/mk2 from Europe and I'm wondering if it's compatible for use in North America. The back says that it works on all the voltages but I just wanted to make sure that there isn't some kind of a switch that I need to move before I plug it in.
cetoole Posted August 15, 2009 Report Posted August 15, 2009 It is universal, no switches or anything. A pair of back-to-back zeners clip the input voltage to 100v, so unless your wall is below that you will be fine.
Quadrangulum Posted August 15, 2009 Report Posted August 15, 2009 Just what I was hoping for. Thanks for the quick reply!
Deadneddz Posted August 15, 2009 Report Posted August 15, 2009 I have a strange question. Is there any conceivable reason that the normal bias output would sound better than a pro bias one with a pro bias phone? I plugged my O2s into the normal bias output on my T1 and couldn't help but feel less solidifying of images within the headstage. Its like they had more juice(the volume pot was obviously cranked up higher than when I would listen to them out of the pro bias output) Im probably out of my mind and it must be the placebo of cranking my volume pot higher without it distorting sooner via the pro bias output.(since plugged into the pro bias output the volume is much louder at for example 11 o'clock vs 11o'clock via the normal bias output) Although less voltage is supplied is there more current going into the phones as the volume pot is cranked up higher via the normal bias output? Completely disregard my previous statement if its complete cockamamy as my knowlege of current vs voltage is minimal if not nonexistent:D
spritzer Posted August 15, 2009 Report Posted August 15, 2009 With a lower bias voltage then the potential of the diaphragm is lower and the amp has to work harder to push/pull it. I'm not sure what you are hearing though... \
Deadneddz Posted August 15, 2009 Report Posted August 15, 2009 okay, I was just curious and knew that it had to be just placebo from having the volume pot cranked up higher. Its hard to gauge these things when the amp starts to solidify images past 9 o'clock. Shows how important a difference in volume can make when listening or comparing equipment. It also shows how much I need a BH, lol:p
Tachikoma Posted August 16, 2009 Report Posted August 16, 2009 How long does EIFL typically take to send a reply? I was completely ignored the last time I asked for an O2 cable :/
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