Akathisia Posted August 23, 2008 Report Posted August 23, 2008 Uh, if you can return these, you should. Channel imbalance is one of the first signs of driver death with electrostats. ...Then get a SR-5NB, they rock, much more so than the SR-Xmk3 But the SR-Xmk3 is very good, nevertheless. Ditto. Oh man that really blows So is it just a steady decline to dead driversville from here? Or can I expect years of the same imbalance? I'll contact the seller...
spritzer Posted August 23, 2008 Report Posted August 23, 2008 Oh man that really blows So is it just a steady decline to dead driversville from here? Or can I expect years of the same imbalance? I'll contact the seller... It's impossible to tell how long they will last. Could be a week, could be decades...
Smeggy Posted August 23, 2008 Report Posted August 23, 2008 I like to guess 'decades' because I'm an optimist
aardvark baguette Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 How long do brand-new NOS Omega Mk1's last, assuming you store them away in a flight case when not in use to prevent dust accumulation?
Akathisia Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 Has anyone here actually had a driver die on a set that had a channel imbalance? I'm tempted to just keep them and enjoy them until death do us part... And then upgrade
Smeggy Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 There's plenty more where those came from, I wouldn't worry too much. Replacements are just an ebay away. I'd just use them myself. I have a channel imbalance on a couple of Stax phones.
Elephas Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 How long do brand-new NOS Omega Mk1's last, assuming you store them away in a flight case when not in use to prevent dust accumulation? Dust and humidity are two things to watch out for. The headphones come with a small dehumidifier packet when new. I put in three packets at a time and change them out regularly. Extreme heat is probably also better to avoid. I wouldn't leave the headphone sitting in direct sunlight.
deepak Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 How long do brand-new NOS Omega Mk1's last, assuming you store them away in a flight case when not in use to prevent dust accumulation? Probably a very, very long time. You don't hear of many Stax electrostat driver failures. And I believe the O2 is their most robust design to date. I don't know much about the electrets. I too store them in the flight case when I'm not using them.
spritzer Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 How long do brand-new NOS Omega Mk1's last, assuming you store them away in a flight case when not in use to prevent dust accumulation? Decades would be my guess. Mine have been sitting on a Stax stand for 5 years and they are still pristine with a lot of use. I've owned quite a few Stax headphones and they will last 30 years easily even when treated like crap so when babied they will last 40+ years. They should last longer but the oldest Stax is only 49...
slwiser Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 Dust and humidity are two things to watch out for. The headphones come with a small dehumidifier packet when new. I put in three packets at a time and change them out regularly. Extreme heat is probably also better to avoid. I wouldn't leave the headphone sitting in direct sunlight. What would be considered extreme heat on one of these headphones. Sitting on top of a warm amp in it's stand?
aardvark baguette Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 Thanks for the replies guys. Good to know. I guess I'd better make up my mind, if this will be my next big purchase or not.
deepak Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 Thanks for the replies guys. Good to know. I guess I'd better make up my mind, if this will be my next big purchase or not. I would say try before you buy (even though the resale on the MK1 seems to be pretty good), since it will be pretty steep to build a system around them. I'm very glad that I got to hear them at a meet and at a dealer, otherwise I probably never would have bought them.
Elephas Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 What would be considered extreme heat on one of these headphones. Sitting on top of a warm amp in it's stand? I was thinking of hot summer sunlight such as the interior of a car after being parked for 9 hours at an amusement park parking lot, but I would still try to minimize any temperature extremes. Dust, humidity and temperature seem to be the things to watch out for. One thing I don't do is put anything on top of an amp such as a wooden Stax stand (which I don't have, boohoo, I only have a cheap acrylic copy of a Qualia stand). It might save some space, but I think amps should have their own air-space.
Akathisia Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 There's plenty more where those came from, I wouldn't worry too much. Replacements are just an ebay away. I'd just use them myself. I have a channel imbalance on a couple of Stax phones. I've decided to just keep them. They were the right price and they are really mint. I found a thread over at HF with instructions on how to test the energizer and headphones, so I may do that as well. Spritzer, I read you always ground out the pins on your sets. Could you please explain what you do and the reasoning behind it ?
spritzer Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 Spritzer, I read you always ground out the pins on your sets. Could you please explain what you do and the reasoning behind it ? I do it to discharge the diaphragm before putting the phones away for storage. They will attract less dust this way and I'm trying to prevent the dreaded "electret effect". You don't have to do this with electrets as there is nothing to ground, the bias pin isn't connected to anything.
catscratch Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 Initial impressions RE SRM-717 vs SRD-7 Pro/Dared VP-20: Well, this is a surprise. Several things jump out immediately. First, the bass is definitely tighter with the 717. I guess it's the extra added power. With the SRD-7/Dared, the bass has all the volume of the 717, all the depth of the 717, and all of the tonal clarity of the 717, but it's fuzzier, doesn't have the snap, and doesn't have the definition. There's more of a diffuse bass cloud than a precisely localized bassline. With the 717, the bass is definitely better defined. Not any tonally cleaner, really, but quicker, punchier, and snappier, with more authority. Second, the highs are - surprise - more upfront and more detailed with the SRD-7/Dared. I really thought the 717 would do better here, but no cigar. The 717's highs are somewhat metallic and dry compared to the SRD-7/Dared, and are definitely more recessed (though not any less extended). If anything, the SRD-7/Dared is a bit on the bright side, while the 717 is definitely somewhat on the dark side. Dynamic range is definitely better on the 717. The SRD-7/Dared combo is definitely not lacking in dynamic range, but with the 717, there is a noticeable visceral punch. With the SRD-7/Dared, there is only an absence of the typical electrostatic lack of punch. It's not annoying, but it doesn't woo you with its dynamic power. Soundstage is wider and more airy on the SRD-7/Dared. Imaging isn't any less defined - there is just a certain tubey air and space around each instrument which the 717 totally lacks. The 717 does feel more congested in comparison. But the biggest difference, and one I've been procrastinating to say the most, is in the midrange. The SRD-7/Dared has a very tubey, lush approach to rendering the midrange that nevertheless doesn't warm up midrange tone. It isn't cold, it's just about neutral with very lifelike tone, but there is also this wonderful liquid character to it. With the 717, the midrange is a bit warmer, but it's also completely dry. There is no liquid character to it at all. Now, I'm making it sound like the SRD-7/Dared midrange is like sex with Keira Knightley, while the 717 is like getting your ears raped with a sandpaper condom. It's nothing of the sort. It's just a difference between a very tubey presentation and a typical solid-state presentation. But, it's still a deal-breaker for me. If anything, the 717 confirms what I already knew - I'm a tube man through and through. With the SRD-7/Dared, there is just this lush tube magic to the system that makes me completely relax, let my guard down, and ease into the music. I could wax poetic about every detail and nuance of its presentation, but I just don't care to do it after even a short time listening. I'm too busy enjoying the music. With the 717, I'm aware at all times that something is lacking. Even if the sound is technically better, and even if there is more punch - I just can't relax and let go. My initial impression is "... it's nice" and then in 15 minutes I want to turn it off. With the SRD-7/Dared, the sound is so fluid and musical I can listen all day, except that my head wants to explode after two hours from the sheer level of awesome. So, the 717 will not stay, even if it is technically better than the SRD-7/Dared combo. But, it will stay until I get a better source. Some of the dryness could come from the Rega, and it definitely doesn't have enough resolution for the O2 with either setup. Also, the 717 is balanced, and a balanced source could definitely change things. I see the following options in my future: 1) Keep the SRD-7/Dared. My wallet likes this option, and my ears certainly could live with it, but there's a catch: the SRD-7 is not mine. So, I'll need to get another one when MaloS wants his shiny transformer box back. 2) Fix that McAlister heap of junk already. The amp is built like shit, arrived damaged (or maybe something is wrong with the circuit somewhere), and hasn't been of any more use other than a perpetual reminder of what build quality should NOT look like. But, it does have the sonic potential. If it didn't, I'd have myself a nice McAlister bonfire, with me and company dancing around the flames like wild Injuins (racist humor). I really, really don't fancy dealing with Peter again, but if I do get the amp up and running well (or swap it for another one that works), I will be happy. The amp really can sound good. 3). Build a Blue Hawaii. This will happen eventually, but to do so I have to a) have money, learn a new skill, and c) not kill myself in the process. Altogether unlikely, but hey, I've had worse odds in the past. Still, these are initial impressions. I reserve the right to completely change my mind at a later point in time. In fact, I may downright bitchslap myself.
spritzer Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 Great comparison and a tube head will always be a tube head... You are how ever in a bit of a pickle though there are a couple more options plus those that you listed, the new amp that Woo will release soon (which I know nothing about) and a better transformer box. Fixing the McAlister would be my first step though so what's wrong with it?
Torpedo Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 Maybe the source is playing some role on those impressions too, perhaps a less colored amp shows more clearly its character. Rgrds
spritzer Posted August 25, 2008 Report Posted August 25, 2008 That could most certainly be it. The SR-007 takes no prisoners when it comes to sources and cables so the Dared could be glossing over things which the SRD-7 does even more of. Capacitors in the signal path and transformers stepping down and up again will sound very different to a DC coupled SS amp.
MaloS Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 When I listened there, Dared made things sound pretty damn bright, with lots of heat going on in the midrange and up...for me that just tensed me too much, i'll take somewhat softened treble over the heat when listening alot.
catscratch Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 When I listened there, Dared made things sound pretty damn bright, with lots of heat going on in the midrange and up...for me that just tensed me too much, i'll take somewhat softened treble over the heat when listening alot. Eh, I think you've been listening to the SR-005 too much. Compared to that, sure, the O2/Dared is bright. But compared to something more neutral, not really. The O2/717 is much closer to the tonality of the SR-003. With the SRD-7/Dared, it's closer to a K340, but still not quite as bright. You'll probably like the O2/717 sound a lot. That could most certainly be it. The SR-007 takes no prisoners when it comes to sources and cables so the Dared could be glossing over things which the SRD-7 does even more of. Capacitors in the signal path and transformers stepping down and up again will sound very different to a DC coupled SS amp. I wouldn't use the word "could" since that's certainly it. But, when I listen to my rig, I don't want to hear how shit my source is. I just want to relax and enjoy the music. I know how shit my source is, I've been using it for over 3 years. The 717 will stay until I get a new source, that's for damn sure. Then, we'll see what's what. Great comparison and a tube head will always be a tube head... You are how ever in a bit of a pickle though there are a couple more options plus those that you listed, the new amp that Woo will release soon (which I know nothing about) and a better transformer box. Fixing the McAlister would be my first step though so what's wrong with it? My first guess would be: a lot. I haven't powered the damn thing up in a while, but it basically clips during dynamic passages. Any time you get something that hits hard, like a peak in an orchestral recording or a serious bassline in electronic music, you get clipping. I'm going to check it again with the SR-003 (and so help me, the SR-007) and see what's what. It was doing that from the start.
spritzer Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 I wouldn't use the word "could" since that's certainly it. But, when I listen to my rig, I don't want to hear how shit my source is. I just want to relax and enjoy the music. I know how shit my source is, I've been using it for over 3 years. The 717 will stay until I get a new source, that's for damn sure. Then, we'll see what's what. Here I was trying to be all diplomatic and shit... Nice to know you aren't in denial but enjoyment should come first, all else be damned. Get a new source though... the SR-007 is worth it. My first guess would be: a lot. I haven't powered the damn thing up in a while, but it basically clips during dynamic passages. Any time you get something that hits hard, like a peak in an orchestral recording or a serious bassline in electronic music, you get clipping. I'm going to check it again with the SR-003 (and so help me, the SR-007) and see what's what. It was doing that from the start. I'm guessing that this is a design issue and not related to a faulty part or something like that. It would be cool to see some internal pics as something could look out of place.
deepak Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 I'm curious what the problem with the McAlister is as well. Maybe opening it up and posting high resolution pictures of the inside might get you some advice from DIY'ers?
catscratch Posted August 26, 2008 Report Posted August 26, 2008 I don't want it diplomatic, I want it right between the eyes. I'm one heck of a lot less diplomatic IRL than online, which makes me... just about the complete opposite of 99.9% of the population. I tell the truth, and usually that gets me into trouble. Oh well... I'll post high rez pics in a few days, but you'd better hold onto your lunch. It ain't pretty.
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