Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread

[dsavitsk]

oops, I meant a local machinist

I am going to have to befriend one.

But, off the shelf for these would be a lot easier ...

[n_maher]

I am going to have to befriend one.

But, off the shelf for these would be a lot easier ...

I'd give CNC Machine Shop | Custom Waterjet, Plasma, Laser Cutting | eMachineShop.com a shot. In that type of quantity it may prove affordable.

[luvdunhill]

does anyone know of a chassis mount, screw down barrier strip (like Cinch makes) that has an integrated (or optional) plastic safety cover?

[n_maher]

I get these at Radio Shack, I think they'd fit the bill.

[luvdunhill]

I get these at Radio Shack, I think they'd fit the bill.

yeah, I've used those in the past too... hm. Good idea!

[luvdunhill]

I'm looking for a split bobbin style transformer that is rated 2 x 22 VAC @ ~ 25VA and is PCB mount. Haven't found much out there though

Edited August 23, 2010 by luvdunhill

[dsavitsk]

I'm looking for a split bobbin style transformer that is rated 2 x 22 VAC @ ~ 25VA and is PCB mount. Haven't found much out there though

How important are those extra 4 volts? Could you get by with a VPP36-820 at Mouser?

[Mister X]

Yeah, a transformer with 22 VAC secondaries would be a problem.

Tamura PL series?

http://www.tamuracorp.com/clientuploads/pdfs/engineeringdocs/PL30-XX-130B.pdf

Were it not for the through hole part I would have asked about the Signal two-4-one series..

http://www.signaltransformer.com/sites/all/pdf/241.pdf

[luvdunhill]

Doug: I have to power some 24 VDC relay that sit after a LM317. It would be cutting it close

[dsavitsk]

I could be totally wrong, but I'd think a 24V relay would only really need something like 18 to 20V to actually work. That said, could you get away with an 18V relay? Probably easier to find than a 22V transformer

[luvdunhill]

as silly as this sounds, I've done a good amount of research (I won't call it listening, for fear of being laughed at TOO hard) and settled on a relay that comes in 24 V version (well other, like 5v etc. but these aren't stocked at Mouser). That being said, yeah I'll try and using my variac and see how low I can go

[luvdunhill]

Hm, quick before-dinner check says you need 19 VDC to operate a 24 VDC relay. So, I have the dropout of a LM317 and bog standard diode drop for rectification... So, perhaps 20 VAC, I think 18 VAC is cutting it too close...

Perhaps a Hammond 229C40 then?

edit: one more question. What's the preferred orientation when using two of the above. Side-by-side on the long dimension, or the short dimension?

Edited August 23, 2010 by luvdunhill

[dsavitsk]

Does anyone have any idea of where to find some of these, or something else that would work for the same purpose, but with threads for screwing them to a bottom plate from the bottom?

[n_maher]

I'm not sure I would trust a threaded part like that given how thin they are. But you could always just tap the holes that are there for the next larger screw. I'm guessing that they'd accept a 6-32 tap, but it depends on the model as some I've seen have already had holes that large.

[luvdunhill]

search for "tie holder" at Digikey. Richco and Panduit are the two manufacturers that they carry.

[n_maher]

Thanks for that advice Marc, I actually need to pick some of these up.

[Pars]

Good place to pick up a variac around Chicago? My brother's Counterpoint power amp decided it might be a good time start on fire , and I am trying to fix it (with some excellent help on diya). I'll need a variac of bring it up slowly to determine whether or not the output devices are still good. Something around 10A would be great, though I was advised that something smaller (s low as 2.5A or so) will work as long as I don't take it up to full voltage on the variac.

[n_maher]

Good place to pick up a variac around Chicago? My brother's Counterpoint power amp decided it might be a good time start on fire , and I am trying to fix it (with some excellent help on diya). I'll need a variac of bring it up slowly to determine whether or not the output devices are still good. Something around 10A would be great, though I was advised that something smaller (s low as 2.5A or so) will work as long as I don't take it up to full voltage on the variac.

Variable AC Output Transformer MAX.20A (Metered Variac) - eBay (item 120631655275 end time Nov-07-10 14:34:08 PST)

[Fitz]

I'm not sure I would trust a threaded part like that given how thin they are. But you could always just tap the holes that are there for the next larger screw. I'm guessing that they'd accept a 6-32 tap, but it depends on the model as some I've seen have already had holes that large.

I think it'd be fine if they're still just used for small wire bundles, since there will be virtually no load on them. I've never actually tried it that way though, anytime I've used screws on those things it's going in from the top into sheetmetal.

[n_maher]

I think it'd be fine if they're still just used for small wire bundles, since there will be virtually no load on them. I've never actually tried it that way though, anytime I've used screws on those things it's going in from the top into sheetmetal.

Yup, for wire bundles it'd work, but I'm thinking more of big motor run oil or film applications.

[Fitz]

Yup, for wire bundles it'd work, but I'm thinking more of big motor run oil or film applications.

Ehh... for big caps like that I would be looking at other means to secure them anyways.

[n_maher]

Ehh... for big caps like that I would be looking at other means to secure them anyways.

I think with one on both side of the cap at at least two locations along the length of the cap they could make a very good hold down system. Horizontal cap clamps are few and far between in my experience.

[Fitz]

I think with one on both side of the cap at at least two locations along the length of the cap they could make a very good hold down system. Horizontal cap clamps are few and far between in my experience.

I'm just thinking about adhesive coming loose over time or the plastic stripping off the screw on a hard jolt during shipping. Maybe if you make the screws long enough to stick up past the top of the tie holder and add some nuts to it, then it would be more UPS-proof.

[n_maher]

I'm just thinking about adhesive coming loose over time or the plastic stripping off the screw on a hard jolt during shipping. Maybe if you make the screws long enough to stick up past the top of the tie holder and add some nuts to it, then it would be more UPS-proof.

Oh, I definitely wouldn't be counting on either the adhesive or a threaded portion of plastic. I'd definitely through bolt with lock nuts for the proposed application.

[jdkJake]

Double post, sorry.