Pars Posted May 5, 2010 Report Posted May 5, 2010 Yeah, I found that out myself on a Dynahi. Avoid ST Micro regulators, particularly the negative ones. Fairchild or On Semi both worked in my application (dynahi) where the ST failed miserably.
cetoole Posted May 5, 2010 Report Posted May 5, 2010 Don't you love regulators which don't actually regulate?
kevin gilmore Posted May 5, 2010 Report Posted May 5, 2010 I used national semiconductor parts for the regulators. They work fine. They are 20+ years old. I have enough for many more years to come.
Inu Posted May 5, 2010 Report Posted May 5, 2010 I found a JRC 79M12A (500mA) in my old parts box. All sections on the power supply board are working. I am going to Dayton OH next week to get tubes and Teflon wires.
kevin gilmore Posted May 19, 2010 Report Posted May 19, 2010 sanyo has announced that the 2sc3675 will be end of life'd in december of 2010. So if you want the exact same sound buy your parts now. Although there should still be tens of thousands of parts in stock from what i'm told. KSC5042 is also a replacement, but has been end of life'd too. A Replacement is a 2sc4686A part from toshiba which is still in active production and is a higher voltage part i'm using in the new KGSSHV. (+/-500 volt power supplies, same as T2)
kevin gilmore Posted June 2, 2010 Report Posted June 2, 2010 So i just got the email that the first chassis is done, and i should have it tomorrow. So the first person that wants it, gets it, but due to CJ i won't be able to ship till tuesday. Don't have the invoice yet, but they said something like $300 for finishing. So its $987 plus about $300 plus shipping plus 3% paypal... (plus $160 for the board set if you don't have it yet) 8 more sets of tops and bottoms done, need to finish up the fronts and backs.
Craig Sawyers Posted June 2, 2010 Report Posted June 2, 2010 So i just got the email that the first chassis is done, and i should have it tomorrow. So the first person that wants it, gets it, but due to CJ i won't be able to ship till tuesday. Don't have the invoice yet, but they said something like $300 for finishing. So its $987 plus about $300 plus shipping plus 3% paypal... (plus $160 for the board set if you don't have it yet) 8 more sets of tops and bottoms done, need to finish up the fronts and backs. I'll hang on a while for my casework in the possibly forlorn hope that the exchange rate will improve a bit. $1.47 at the moment - up a cent on the bottom. Even though we aren't in the troubled Euro, we're still tainted by association. Wish I'd taken the plunge on a pair of omegas a couple of years ago when the dollar was at $2 to the UK pound.
nattonrice Posted June 2, 2010 Report Posted June 2, 2010 That price doesn't factor in the Ti knob though does it? For a full case finished that price is pretty good! Polished then black anodize?
kevin gilmore Posted June 2, 2010 Report Posted June 2, 2010 No knobs yet, titanium or otherwise (except my unit) other than that, a complete chassis. Was thinking of also doing a knob with 3 machine rings to put o-rings onto. polished then black anodized. i may do some custom machined spikes, but that is also for later.
kevin gilmore Posted June 3, 2010 Report Posted June 3, 2010 Got the chassis. Its pretty damm good. Not quite justin good, because i went for a less shinny finish, but i'm VERY happy with it. I'm pretty sure spritzer is getting the first one
Craig Sawyers Posted June 3, 2010 Report Posted June 3, 2010 Got the chassis. Its pretty damm good. Not quite justin good, because i went for a less shinny finish, but i'm VERY happy with it. I'm pretty sure spritzer is getting the first one Any chance of some pics, Kevin? Pretty please?
kevin gilmore Posted June 3, 2010 Report Posted June 3, 2010 Its still at work. Trunk full of various CJ stuff... If i go in to work on monday (depends on amount of booze on fri,sat,sun) i'll take it home. Otherwise tuesday. Each piece is wrapped so nice. The heatsinks polished up the best. Actually the front and back polished up the best. NO wait... And besides, taking pictures of black stuff is a pain. its definitely BLACK.
Craig Sawyers Posted June 3, 2010 Report Posted June 3, 2010 And besides, taking pictures of black stuff is a pain. its definitely BLACK. A bit like the black spaceship in Hitchhiker's Guide: "It's the weird colour scheme that freaks me. Every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls, which are labeled in black on a black background, a small black light lights up black to let you know you've done it. Hey, what is this, some kind of galactic hyper-hearse?"
luvdunhill Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 Would it be possible to get the length and height of the heatsinks you guys used? Length is most important, and C/W for the length used would be handy.
kevin gilmore Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 The heatsinks are 16.2 inches long and 2.95 high. Don't remember the width. Would have loved vertical fin cast heatsinks, but the prices were just stupidly high.
luvdunhill Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 I think I found a couple options. I'll have to cut them down myself most likely, and they ship from Europe, but might be a possibility. I'm assuming no one needs heat sinks? Probably not that many people stupid enough to not get in on the case deal...
kevin gilmore Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxprod1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxprod2.jpg And off to spritzer shortly. If there is a second run of boards, we can certainly change things at that time. No way am i doing another 700 lbs of aluminum.
Les_Garten Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 Is that the Custom Stealth Volcanic Ash Edition?
Voltron Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 Oh nice. The black anodized heat sinks look great. After hearing the amp, even with cans I don't have but really liked, I sure was happy to be in on this little piece of history. By the way, were they SR-X Mk.3 Pro?
luvdunhill Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 If there is a second run of boards, we can certainly change things at that time. No way am i doing another 700 lbs of aluminum. My recommendation would be to use a multiple of 100mm. Then at least you can slap a pair of heat sinks per side. I think shaving 12mm off the board size would be possible. Here's the profile I'm getting a quote on now, I'd cut it to length myself I'd be willing to handle the second run on heat sinks, but I cannot really commit to complete cases.
kevin gilmore Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 (edited) Its the flame thrower burned volcanic ash icelandic edition Yes those were srx3 pro's. Probably close to 30 years old. Owned by mypasswordis For those of you that have seen the sony 5400, the finish is absolutely identical to that. And its a very deep anodize. Which means that the screws fit kind of tight the first time. (waiting for a swt61 comment...) Edited June 8, 2010 by kevin gilmore
kevin gilmore Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 I'd be willing to handle the second run on heat sinks, but I cannot really commit to complete cases. I'm assuming you mean the profile you are showing. You gonna drill and tap all the holes? Your arm is going to get tired.
deepak Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 Probably not that many people stupid enough to not get in on the case deal... Raises hand. That's one of the many reasons I'm not going through with it
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