UFN Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 I always tap by hand. Having had to fix a couple of broken taps (and discard a couple of heatsinks that couldn't be fixed) I've decided once and for all that those extra minutes to do it by hand is a good investment... //UFN
JoaMat Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) / Edited November 11, 2015 by JoaMat
kevin gilmore Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 the name of the game is to keep the tap completely perpendicular to the surfacei got a super old tapping jig that does just that, so simple to use, and the 10 inch or so handle makes it easy to figure out how much torque to apply
spritzer Posted September 12, 2015 Author Report Posted September 12, 2015 I do it much the same way. By hand with a power drill with good speed control and a low torque setting. I do snap one every now and then but then again... I do a lot of this.
kevin gilmore Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 this is a reasonably cheap version, probably a very good idea if you are doing T2'shttp://www.micromark.com/microlux-tapping-fixture,8363.html 1
nopants Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 does the original t2 use any plug-in cards a la 727? seems like another way to save some depth / width for stuff like the batteries or anything that doesn't require the sink
spritzer Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Posted September 13, 2015 It didn't have plug in cards but there were PCB's on all four walls of the chassis plus the batteries were located in tall heatsinked modules that stood off from the main PCB.
Craig Sawyers Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) I get a tap started by putting it in the pillar drill chuck to get it perpendicular. I turn the chuck by hand while applying a bit of pressure with the drill lever. Once started, I take the tap (and workpiece) out of the chuck to the workbench and finish tapping using a hand wrench.Only works if you can get the workpiece into the throat of the pillar drill of course. this is a reasonably cheap version, probably a very good idea if you are doing T2'shttp://www.micromark.com/microlux-tapping-fixture,8363.html That I like, Kevin. Want one, want one rignt now. Edited September 13, 2015 by Craig Sawyers
nopants Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 Anyone here use spacers to lift the resistors off the board? Wondering if an appropriate part exists that meets all the clearances over the board.
b0bb Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 Anyone here use spacers to lift the resistors off the board? Wondering if an appropriate part exists that meets all the clearances over the board.Have been thinking along the same lines, these are ceramic spaces, stack them to adjust heightAllied sells these, or for larger quantities Ebay.http://www.alliedelec.com/essentra-components-cer-1/70208725/Another option is a wire forming plier from Excelta or Xuron with adjustable lead bend radius, it puts a U-shaped bend in the wire that holds up the resistor.http://www.pemro.com/productDetails.cfm?itemCode=EXL-1944http://xuron.com/index.php/main/industrial_products/13/56 Excelta is very nice but expensive around 6-10x the cost of Xuron depending on the model.Heat shrink might also be useful but I think the T2 runs far too hot for that.
spritzer Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Posted September 13, 2015 I just use teflon tubing that I cut to length using my automatic wire stripper. I only do it for power resistors though.
insanity Posted September 14, 2015 Report Posted September 14, 2015 For the power resistors I used these on my amps: http://www.mouser.ch/ProductDetail/BIVAR/939-375/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhil5LnpddCPNfcxCoAyB34XTcpULg7ziRXscMXtfXbDw%3d%3d
nopants Posted September 16, 2015 Report Posted September 16, 2015 thanks for suggestions is there a standard way of attaching terminals for the single spots, like the vcc spots, etc? wondering if there's an alternative to directly soldering wires to the board
luvdunhill Posted September 16, 2015 Report Posted September 16, 2015 No, you need to start a revolution for wire to board connectors. Kerry and I are the grassroots movement
nopants Posted September 16, 2015 Report Posted September 16, 2015 you guys and your crimping are too corporate for me, fight the power 1
s_r Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 So I've gotten to the point in my build where I can fire up the amp itself. Unfortunately some LEDs are unlit and the batteries don't want to change their voltage (+250V/-559V) with the trimpots. Specifically D1, D6/D7, D10/D11 and D24 are unlit. Aside from those the LEDs outside of the batteries are dim. The PSU voltages measure dead on. Any obvious culprits I should check?
JoaMat Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) / Edited November 11, 2015 by JoaMat
GeorgeP Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 Use the 10k trimpot to set the 6.55v.
shipsupt Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 I told George I wasn't going to get to open the package he sent me until later in the week, but Sunday morning was quiet in the house so i could not resist. His chassis parts came out amazing, photos are not showing off how clean a job this is. Thanks George!!
Pars Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 Those look very nice. Now wrap them back up so you can open them later in the week to duplicate the Christmas-like atmosphere...
purk Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 I told George I wasn't going to get to open the package he sent me until later in the week, but Sunday morning was quiet in the house so i could not resist. His chassis parts came out amazing, photos are not showing off how clean a job this is. Thanks George!! I'm jealous of the laser engraving....
Kerry Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) I wanted to mention that a few folks have been having issues with the power supply not supplying enough current on the -500V rail. Seems like setting the 30 ohm resistors to 20 ohms helps. The behavior is that if just one channel (either side) is connected then everything works perfectly, but if you connect both sides, then the rail sags and it's impossible to adjust the batteries correctly. If you're not having the issue, there is no reason to do this.I'm not sure if the amp is drawing a bit more or the current sources are providing a bit less than needed.In other news, I just got my PS together. I need to mount transistors to heatsinks, which I'll be working on today. I did test the relay driver and found a small issue for the LED output, but it was easily solved.I've got it mounted in a jig so I can easily solder the remaining transistors from the bottom.Here's some shots EDIT: I just wanted to add that I love working with the SMD parts and heat gun. I'd say I can move about four times faster when stuffing components. Edited September 20, 2015 by Kerry 3
b0bb Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) I told George I wasn't going to get to open the package he sent me until later in the week, but Sunday morning was quiet in the house so i could not resist. His chassis parts came out amazing, photos are not showing off how clean a job this is. Thanks George!! Got my set from GeorgeP as well, the quality of the work and finishing is superb, many thanks GeorgeP Edited September 20, 2015 by b0bb
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