chiguy Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 (edited) I understood that it's PCBs only. I was asking if these PCBs used old (out of production) or new (current production) sand. Edited August 31, 2015 by chiguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubliss Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 If anyone is interested, I'm thinking about selling my T2, but I would like to do that locally (Los Angeles) and preferably to someone who is a DIYer. I will consider shipping it if the right person comes forward... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earspeakers Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) I understood that it's PCBs only. I was asking if these PCBs used old (out of production) or new (current production) sand. I thought you might have meant that but didn't parse. Current production silicon T2? Didn't know there was such a thing. This one is using out of production (original T2 design) silicon, or the original T2 design at least (2SK216, 2SJ79, 2SC3381, 2SA1486, 2SC3575 etc). Any links appreciated. Edited September 1, 2015 by Earspeakers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiguy Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I was referring to what JoaMat has been doing with his T2.Posts starting here:Still needs 2sk79 and 2sk216 though.And this:http://www.head-case.org/forums/topic/6837-the-ultimate-diy-a-stax-srm-t2/?do=findComment&comment=667947 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I understood that it's PCBs only. I was asking if these PCBs used old (out of production) or new (current production) sand.Pretty sure you can use the newer/cheaper sand on the old boards if you wanted (but it would not necessarily be plug and play). The 3381 replacement(s) might be tricky though. Can't avoid the j79 and k216. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mortal_fiend Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 Okay, so I've managed to track down all of the sand for the PSU, still working on the Amp section. This means it's time to start casing the PSU up and testing things out. I realize that traditionally we've all gone with pretty much the same chassis design. Has anyone had any esoteric ideas that they think would work, but haven't had the will to try out? I've always wanted to build something out of stone (especially after seeing the new Orpheus 2 from Sennheiser). As long as the heatsinks are standard, can anyone see a problem with making the top and bottom this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 (edited) anyone got a BOM xls on their HDD? kevin's links seem to be down Edited September 10, 2015 by nopants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 I do have a BOM for the original build.PM me and I can email it to you.In other news, I've been working on a shrunken version of the T2 inspired by Joamat. The bigger challenge was the PS which I've just gotten some boards back from manufacturing. Lot's of SMD parts especially on the bottom of the board.I've also included some 3D CAD drawings of what I think the chassis will look like. The PS board is 206mm (W) x 200mm (D).The chassis will be 12"(W) x 14.25" (D) x 3.33"(H). I'm using the new GR HV PS for all of the elements including the 60V supply. 12V supplies are still 7812/2912. I've also included a 5V supply since I wanted to use the new Digital attenuator. I should have parts next week and I'll show some more pics once I have the board built up.This is going to be fun 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 i hate microsoftremotely administered computer requires an ok to change the kernel...(brilliant)fixed now. does not seem to happen very often 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) That PS board is impressive small. Edited November 11, 2015 by JoaMat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 thanks Kerry, luckily Kevin got it back up. those umbilicals are a killer excited to see the end result of your shrink. that board looks difficult enough just to solder, not to mention the heatsink drilling seems nightmarish. is size the main reason you don't opt for angle brackets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) Yes. I wanted to save some width. In the end, I think it's less work not having to mill the angle brackets and just tap the heat sinks. It's only a few more taps than mounting the angle brackets. Also, my metal work got very good from building a couple of mills where precision is critical. Definitely not for everyone.I'm going to start milling the bottom plate and tapping the heat sinks this weekend.PS I can't show the bottom of the PS since I saved the PS to the wrong format and ultimately lost it.EDIT: I have roughly the same space available as the original T2 Chassis for the transformers since the heat sinks don't go all the way to the back of the chassis. They would not otherwise have fit. Edited September 11, 2015 by Kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Great work Kerry, as always.I have been busy on the T2 front as well. After Tran/Lil Knight (the douche) ran off with my and others' money in the failed chassis group buy, I started reaching out to various shops. Managed to find one that had the patience to deal with a small custom order so organized a new group buy with a few folks here. Started in Jan/Feb and finally finished just this past week. Despite all the hours with the machinist and assisting on drawings, this was easier for me than redesigning the PCBs to fit a particular chassis or heatsink. These ones are the same as the ones KG had made a few years back, so no new design features like yours. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Wow nice! Any left over extrusion material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Wow. That's fantastic. Where were you able to source the heat sinks?great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Custom die at around $3k to have those sinks made. Then each batch in 12ft lengths which can then be cut to any length.Wow nice! Any left over extrusion material? Were you meaning heatsink? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Yeah, I could take some of the extra off your hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nopants Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 I'm also down for some heatsink if there's any left over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeP Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Marc, I have a few pieces left but was going to try using them for a Carbon and maybe some other stuff. That said, I suspect there is enough interest that I could have another batch made (minimum order is 4 x 12 feet). Doing some rough math, a 16" piece (slightly smaller than what is needed for the T2) would be about $50 without any tapping. Drop me a pm on what you might need as I can have them cut to any size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoaMat Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) / Edited November 11, 2015 by JoaMat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted September 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 I always do my tapping with a cordless drill. Those chassis do look awesome. Great work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor Chew Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Nice work George and Kerry. Looking forward to seeing the completed amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Sawyers Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Those chassis do look awesome. Great work. ^ This Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G600 Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Kerry, brilliant work, cheers !Dunno why, but SMD for high voltages (when possible) seems to be safer to me.Less chance of badly bent things, and cold solder joints. But I'm uneducated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 I always do my tapping with a cordless drill. Those chassis do look awesome. Great work. Never tried using either a cordless drill or my drill press to tap holes. Any links to how you do this? I always figured it was a quick route to broken taps...I had a couple on my puter. One seems to be lil knights... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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