spritzer Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Posted April 5, 2013 Probably more than 30 now and the only one sold was the first amp Andy built. I just bought some PEEK screws so it is time to strip mind down and fix the small issues I have with it.
TMoney Posted April 5, 2013 Report Posted April 5, 2013 ^ And that one has since been sold back to Andy. I think one or two of the builds may have been "commissioned", so not sold in the strict sense but also no in use by the original builder. Of the 30, I wonder how many are in flawless operational condition?
Lil Knight Posted April 5, 2013 Report Posted April 5, 2013 I am 90% done in sourcing parts for the second T2, even though my first one is far from finished.
c12mech Posted April 5, 2013 Report Posted April 5, 2013 I'm slowly getting the parts together for mine. I have a design in my head for the enclosure. Heat sinks are my hang up right now. I know what I want but can't find them. Something like that solid machined aluminum block Blue Hawaii that Birgir posted would be sweet. Although I would need a crane to move it.
spritzer Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Posted April 5, 2013 Mine has probably been the most trouble of the lot which is all down to fucked up transformers causing a lot of damage. Haven't heard about any major issues with the other ones. Makes me wonder though how many dared to attack the chassis KG had made and modify it? The amp really needs a power light and a front mounted switch... I'm slowly getting the parts together for mine. I have a design in my head for the enclosure. Heat sinks are my hang up right now. I know what I want but can't find them. Something like that solid machined aluminum block Blue Hawaii that Birgir posted would be sweet. Although I would need a crane to move it. Moving it is bad enough but I have to ship it to Spain. Took me two weeks to find a box big enough and strong enough to do it...
blubliss Posted April 5, 2013 Report Posted April 5, 2013 Yeah, I have two again now so feel better . Someone just asked me to build one for them so that may happen.
spritzer Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Posted April 5, 2013 I think you are just looking for an excuse to build a third one. 5.1 with headphones...
Milosz Posted April 5, 2013 Report Posted April 5, 2013 Mine has probably been the most trouble of the lot which is all down to fucked up transformers causing a lot of damage. Haven't heard about any major issues with the other ones. Oh? What kind of transformer problems? Where did you get them from? Anything builders can do to check their transformers to avoid the issue?
spritzer Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Posted April 6, 2013 SumR and the leads were labeled incorrectly. Should have caught it with a simple multimeter testing but didn't...
Milosz Posted April 10, 2013 Report Posted April 10, 2013 SumR and the leads were labeled incorrectly. Should have caught it with a simple multimeter testing but didn't... I have SumR also, probably the most common I guess. I will check the lead labeling now, for sure. Good to know! Question: do the heatsinks on the Gilmore-cased versions get warm, hot, real hot or too hot to touch? I'm trying to ball-park the amount of heat produced. I have some heatsinks from Par-Metal which probably have twice the surface area of the Gilmore ones, I'm sure they will be fine; but I have a different idea for fabricating some special heat sinks instead, much prettier than these normal black-anodized Par-Metal ones, I think the heat sinks I have in mind would have about the same cooling ability as the Gilmore ones, but might be a little less (or a little more...)
blubliss Posted April 10, 2013 Report Posted April 10, 2013 My sinks at the hottest spots on the amp (near the front) get up to 50C.
Lil Knight Posted April 10, 2013 Report Posted April 10, 2013 50C doesn't seem to be too hot. Did you ever measure the temp on the brackets?
spritzer Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Posted April 14, 2013 Anybody have a problem where the batteries are stuck at 797-820V (max adjustment range)? Mine is acting up as before and it started after one of the K216's in the front end CCS had shorted through the insulation and a 3675 in the main CCS had also shorted. Changed all the offending transistors, the J79's and the 100V zeners plus the K216's in that stage. I also swapped out the fet and C3381's in the batteries but no change. The batteries are fully lit but most of the other LED's are not. The EL34 CCS both have only two LED's partially lit and since both batteries behave the same way it leads me to believe it's a more centralized issue. What exactly I don't know...
chinsettawong Posted April 15, 2013 Report Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) I have the same problem with my 2nd T2. I can't seem to find the cause of the problem. Edited April 15, 2013 by chinsettawong
spritzer Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Posted April 15, 2013 Have you tried just replacing everything? This is clearly a damaged part somewhere in my case as the amp did work before things started to short out. I'll first try to rebuild the batteries and then work my way outwards.
chinsettawong Posted April 15, 2013 Report Posted April 15, 2013 In the beginning, I had this same problem on both channels. I took out some parts to measure and put back. And somehow one channel worked. But the other channel didn't. I've sent it to a friend to help me trouble shoot now.
spritzer Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Posted April 15, 2013 Do you remember which parts you took out?
chinsettawong Posted April 15, 2013 Report Posted April 15, 2013 I took out the VRs, and a few TRs around active battery. I couldn't find anything wrong with them, and so I put them back. One channel worked but the other didn't. No matter how I turn the VR, the active battery voltage stays at max.
spritzer Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Posted April 15, 2013 That's pretty much what happens to mine. I get a small change at one point but it's from around 802V down to 790V.
spritzer Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Posted April 15, 2013 So I've been busy. Changed all the free standing 2SA1486's and 2SC3675's, the 10K pots and the 3675's that are in the batteries but located on the sinks. I know the LED's work so it has to be the 2SK216's in the front end CCS. Just has to be as everything else has been changed. Might do the 2SA1486's in the front end while I have the heatsink off. The main CCS behave the same way on the good channel with the batteries not connected so they should be ok.
Kerry Posted April 15, 2013 Report Posted April 15, 2013 If you have a working side then use a simple diode tester for each transistor comparing left and right channels. You'll have to check each possible combination. This helped me resolve the issue in place.
JoaMat Posted April 15, 2013 Report Posted April 15, 2013 Yeah, the diode testing method is a DIY´s Swiss army knife. Have helped me a couple of times since your advise a year ago, Kerry.
spritzer Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Posted April 16, 2013 I already did the diode tests but said fuck it and replaced everything in the amp. It's not like I don't have a few 3675's to waste. Still didn't fix the issue though. Might be a blown resistor but how unlikely would that be with no visible marks... As it stands now all the sand except the servo has been replaced but no change. One thing that worries me is that the front end CCS doesn't light up as it should. All the active parts are new so it should be fine but that might be a cause. Another could be the servo but it appears to be working just fine. When the amp first turns on the main CCS's light up but are turned off half a second later as the servo kicks in.
chinsettawong Posted April 17, 2013 Report Posted April 17, 2013 I checked everything on mine, and I can't really find anything wrong either. But it just won't adjust any voltages. I now start to think that it could be the fault at PCB or the plate through holes. Wachara C.
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