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Posted (edited)

I spent over $4.5k with the rk50 pot.

but its easier not to pay attention to those things.

 

If I actually paid myself my standard consulting rates

for labor, the price would be stupid.

Edited by kevin gilmore
Posted (edited)

Going electrostatic is my next years objective. This year I went orthodynamic. Need to squeeze in a good DAC somewhere as well.

 

And yeah, big gratulations to GeorgeP. It's hard to describe the feeling when you see those LEDs light up for the first time, everything gets warm and hopefully no smoke comes. Then you plug in the phones and everything is silent, no thump when plugging in (hence no DC) and then music.

Edited by RudeWolf
Posted

I spent over $4.5k with the rk50 pot.

but its easier not to pay attention to those things.

 

If I actually paid myself my standard consulting rates

for labor, the price would be stupid.

 

Hence why part of me says not to check. Considering that I paid more for the parts 3 years after Kevin built built his (especially the semis), and with our wonderful taxes and high shipping for things coming from the States, I probably spent much more.

Posted

I spent over $4.5k with the rk50 pot.

but its easier not to pay attention to those things.

 

If I actually paid myself my standard consulting rates

for labor, the price would be stupid.

 

If we were ever to think about how much money we pour into this stuff then we'd be sure to take up substance abuse... as it is much cheaper.  ;D

  • Haha 1
Posted

Did Peter consider buzzing to be a need for replacement or did you simply opt for getting the encapsulated version? There is a very light buzzing from one of the transformers but only audible if my head is within 3 feet with the cover off - so not really concerned.

 

The buzzing was audible with the cover on & a few feet away, so I opted for the encapsulated replacement. Quite a bit larger than the old transformer (133mm OD and 70mm height) but it makes about as much noise on as it does off.

Posted

Hopefully nobody minds if I show off my knob.

 

 

Now just looking for some black stainless or aluminum screws in 5-40 size for the top covers (and yes, the chassis nees a good cleaning).

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Posted

Anybody have a problem where the batteries are stuck at 797-820V (max adjustment range)?  Mine is acting up as before and it started after one of the K216's in the front end CCS had shorted through the insulation and a 3675 in the main CCS had also shorted.  Changed all the offending transistors, the J79's and the 100V zeners plus the K216's in that stage.  I also swapped out the fet and C3381's in the batteries but no change. 

 

The batteries are fully lit but most of the other LED's are not.  The EL34 CCS both have only two LED's partially lit and since both batteries behave the same way it leads me to believe it's a more centralized issue.  What exactly I don't know... 

 

spritzer, have you found a solution to your problem with batteries voltage adjustment?

 

I have a problem with newly built T2. One channel works OK. The other channels batteries are both stuck at 809 volts.

Posted

Nope, after changing all the sand more than once the problem still remains.  The only plausible explanation for this behavior has to be the K216 on top of the batteries and I was waiting on some old K216's because the recent units may not work as it should.  It is a long shot but everything tests ok.  After this I'm out of ideas and I'll have to take a trip to Chicago with the amp and bake Kevin a huge cake while he takes a look at it for me...  :) 

 

Did something happen to your amp or did it power up like that for the first time?  Mine did work and then the main CCS shorted to the chassis and it started to have problems. 

Posted

It power up so at very first time. But believe it or not I have found the cause for this. The center pins on both  2k trimmers  on faulty side were unsoldered. I’m glad I discovered this before changing components. It took me three days to find those missing joints. Wonder how many more there could be?

 

Well, I'm sure you will find and solve the problem with your amp. It's mostly a matter of time and some things just need some more time.

Posted

Got some more work during the weekend. Anyone who got Dr Gilmore's cases is just so fortunate. Doing these from scratch is a pure PITA. :-

 

And yes, I purposely made the heatsinks longer and the rear panels recessed. :)

 

 

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Posted

It looks like things are coming along nicely for you.  Chassis work is always very tedious, but also very rewarding when you're done :)

 

What type of finish were you thinking about?

Posted (edited)

Sure I will. :)

Just wondering if there is any interested in a GB for the T2 parts? Basically all the machined top, bottom, front (10mm), rear panels. Plus L brackets,  supporting brackets,  maybe custom aluminum knob and feet. Powder coating only. The only thing left is the heatsink which can be sourced from heatsinkusa. They do have tapping service.

 

At least 15 sets though. Less than that, it's just not worth the hassle and price cut.

Edited by Lil Knight
Posted

Sure I will. :)

Just wondering if there is any interested in a GB for the T2 parts? Basically all the machined top, bottom, front (10mm), rear panels. Plus L brackets,  supporting brackets,  maybe custom aluminum knob and feet. Powder coating only. The only thing left is the heatsink which can be sourced from heatsinkusa. They do have tapping service.

 

At least 15 sets though. Less than that, it's just not worth the hassle and price cut.

 

I am in for one. ^-^  14 to go?

Posted (edited)

Actually, 13 to go.

Boards are easy part, no biggie about that.

The last time I ordered from heatsinkusa, total was less than $100, including cutting and shipping.

I actually haven't got the quote for powder coating to guesstimate the total.

There are lots of options to keep the cost up/down. Powder coating or keep it raw. Front panel thickness. Pattern of amp's machined holes...

Edited by Lil Knight

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