wink Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Quote" red mallee knob in progress " Will they be too hot to handle on the T2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 That looks beautiful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livewire Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chinsettawong Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Wow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedefede Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 While mounting the amp (almost done), I am having trouble with the tube sockets, that fits the holes in toppanel rather tight. 2 of the EL34 sockets are "dis-placed" about 1 mm too close to the front. I did choose Bakelit sockets (with same dimensions as the teflon ones), so i cant really cut in them. Any ideas? Melt a bit away with a soldering iron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzziguy Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Dremel tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Bad idea. Just enlarge the top panel. Much safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 While mounting the amp (almost done), I am having trouble with the tube sockets, that fits the holes in toppanel rather tight. 2 of the EL34 sockets are "dis-placed" about 1 mm too close to the front. I did choose Bakelit sockets (with same dimensions as the teflon ones), so i cant really cut in them. Any ideas? Melt a bit away with a soldering iron? Desolder the sockets and remove them. Reinstall the sockets and secure them with semi-flexible means (tape, or something like it) and fit the panel into the chassis and resolder them in. Is it a pain, yes, but perfectly doable unless I'm missing something. While modifying the top panel would technically work it'd still look it was fixed even if you did all 4 holes because 2 of them would be off-center. Just fix it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Just fix it right. Aren't you the guy with the insanely high priced components and looking for trouble rigging up these parts on the board? Why didn't you use the proper material, for you know, the parts that allow a safe operation of the amp? Did you save what, $50? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 can you loosen the screws on the standoffs and reposition the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzziguy Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 The Dremel tool would work on the top panel too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Aren't you the guy with the insanely high priced components and looking for trouble rigging up these parts on the board? Why didn't you use the proper material, for you know, the parts that allow a safe operation of the amp? Did you save what, $50? This wasn't directed at me, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swt61 Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Nate, he drinks heavily after 10:00 PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 I got a better idea. Desolder the sockets. Go and get the teflon sockets. You can buy the cheaper version if you want. They fit fine as long as you get them all the way down on the board and level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Yeah, don't fuck around with high voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubliss Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Nate, that was for pedefede. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 This wasn't directed at me, right? No, sorry The quoted text was for context! In all reality I think that Justin assessed the situation correctly. You'll likely have to also loosen the components on the L bracket too to get the maximum amount of slop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedefede Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 (edited) The Bakelit sockets wasnt choosen because of the price! (which anyway is roughly the same as the Teflon ones). And they seem to have the exact similar shape - so i didnt do something stupid there. (The displacement issue is due to how the PCB are mounted to the alu L-brackets (where i only premounted the side+front/back - but left out the top plate). I guess the default solution is to re-mount the L-brackets ... But I came up with another solution. If I dont start to assemble first the sides to the front/back, and then top/bottum; - but instead first the sides to the top/buttom - and then the front/back, there is room for the sockets in the holes (2 of the sockets touch the top plate, but without much tension). There will then be half a millimeter space between the front and the sides. The cabinet seems pretty stable. (The back and sides are in firm contact). (If i tighten the screws, i guess i can get the sides and front to touch, but i think it will put some stress on the solderings of the sockets. ) [EDIT:] And today i loosened the 2x7 screws, that holds the L-brackets to the sides/heatsinks. I was then able to push the PCB+Brackets a bit a way from the front, (because of the space between the screws in the holes) before fastening again. This gave another 0,3mm, and things looks nice now. The sides, of 2 of the sockets just touch the top panel, but i dont think that will be a problem now. Edited August 16, 2011 by pedefede Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedefede Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 About the wirering. Are everybody using the "setup" that i saw in post 1497/1498 ?? I was kinda worried about having +500V sitting right next to -560V. I'm considering "grouping" the plus and minus rails - but then again - if there has been some kind of standard evolved ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livewire Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) Just thought I'd throw this out there for those who have yet to source that rare sand for their T2's. This could be worthwhile, as I dropped a little over $200 with B&D recently for discontinued transistors. B&D is having a "summer sale" until August 31. 10% off and free shipping in the CONUS. Minimum order is $100 to qualify, use souce code: "cooldown" at checkout. www.bdent.com Edited August 18, 2011 by livewire 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 So, long story short, I have an extra HV differential probe, a Tek P5200. It doesn't require a TekProbe interface, so it would be compatible with most scopes (contact me for more info). I just tested it with my function generator and it works great. Anyone interested in it? If anyone else has a TekProbe interface compatible scope, I have something else that could be available for rent.... ahem, Team Extreme Testing represent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wink Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Minimum order is $100 to qualify, use souce code: "cooldown" at checkout.. Thanks for the info. It saved me about $40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milosz Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Here's some news for those building a T-2- OBERON is now selling their range of arc-flash protection suits in a variety of FASHION COLORS! You can now make a fashion statement whilst protecting yourself from plasmas that result when semiconductors are flash-vaporized! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milosz Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 What's the max torque for the M3 PEEK screws? Anybody know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livewire Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) 0.15 N-m or 1.33 In-lbs. Easy does it! Dont want no achy-breaky in your build... Edited August 30, 2011 by livewire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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