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Posted
The PSU is pretty simple but the chips are all good and that Ultra Analog jitter reducer is interesting. I'm going to buy the schematics from Adcom to see if I can dig up something more about that UA piece of kit. The rest of the DAC isn't bad by any means but could do with some light mods, i.e. about 50 2.2uf/50V caps and some 2200uf/63V units to start with.

No idea about the UA thing, but I had an Adcom GCD700 (multi-disc player using Denon mechanics, BB filter and 1702 DACs) and was pretty decent. No exotic caps in sight (I changed them all) but the original opamps were a custom version of OPA77s, not bad.

Posted
Oh yeah I get that. I am honestly only hoping it makes a good contender in the best out of any balanced source under $1000 market. I think it may do that.

I have a Buffalo (not 32, ESS9008 chip on mine) and IMHO you can raise the bar to double that (if not more). I like it way more than my Benchmark DAC1 Pre (Pre version and pre-moddded), I like it more than my now modded Benchy, I like it more than any sub$500 DAC I had (many chinese things both original and modded, and the MF V-DAC and the CA Dacmagic) and, yes, I liked it more than my beloved piece of Pass Art (aka D1 original with pcm63s). Just to name a few :)

The onyl 'special' thing on my Buffalo (besides careful assembly and cabling blablah) is I used a spare Sigma22 I had around for the IVY board (a bit overkill). When testing it this setup was better than a passive I/V (lundahl trafos) or the direct out of the chip (you do not need an IVY as the ESS9008 can ouput voltage directly but measures, and to my ears sounds, better in current mode). I use it in direct SPDIF mode too (no receiver + I2S etc) and it is a bit 'picky' with cables and transports but YMMV.

I had a complete Buffalo32 kit for some months at home and finally gave to someone else: no time for assembly, but honestly I am quite satisfied with my unit...

Posted
No idea about the UA thing, but I had an Adcom GCD700 (multi-disc player using Denon mechanics, BB filter and 1702 DACs) and was pretty decent. No exotic caps in sight (I changed them all) but the original opamps were a custom version of OPA77s, not bad.

Good to know even if the dac will only be used for testing new amps. :D I had read somewhere that the opamps were some really cheap units but OPA77's is good news. I'll probably install some sockets though and try some 2604's since I have them at hand. All caps will be changed to Nichicon FG's. Now the only problem is getting the damn thing out of customs...

Posted
I use it in direct SPDIF mode too (no receiver + I2S etc) and it is a bit 'picky' with cables and transports but YMMV.

I'll second this...... the original Buffalo is indeed very picky with SPDIF input. Sometimes mine just wouldn't lock and I had to power cycle. I2S from a CS8416 works perfectly every time though.

Posted
I'll second this...... the original Buffalo is indeed very picky with SPDIF input. Sometimes mine just wouldn't lock and I had to power cycle. I2S from a CS8416 works perfectly every time though.

I'm using a mux, so maybe that will help. Mostly been running it from crappy USB receiver and its running well. Mine is also the 9008, so I am looking forward to possibly picking up a Buffalo II someday.

Posted
I'm using a mux, so maybe that will help. Mostly been running it from crappy USB receiver and its running well. Mine is also the 9008, so I am looking forward to possibly picking up a Buffalo II someday.

I suspect my 'problem' was confounded by the fact that mine was one of the very first batch (serial #4, I think) that used the 'wrong' SPDIF comparator.

Posted

So I got the Parasound 1600, how can I get it to work on 230V? There are three transformers if I am not mistaken(see picture), do I have to replace those or it is easier just to use a voltage converter? (Are there any which are cheap and don't degrade the SQ?)

Thanks!

Posted
So I got the Parasound 1600, how can I get it to work on 230V? There are three transformers if I am not mistaken(see picture), do I have to replace those or it is easier just to use a voltage converter? (Are there any which are cheap and don't degrade the SQ?)

Thanks!

It sure looks like there are jumpers on the pcb for changing the input voltage but they also look like they are soldered in which may make changing them a bear. I'd probably just get a properly sized stepdown trafo and call it a day.

Posted

From the manual:

Rewiring for 220-240 V 50 Hz Operation

The D/AC-1600 HD can be rewired for operation abroad. Please refer this conversion to a skilled

electronics technician to avoid injury or possible harm to the unit.

The main power supply printed circuit board has three separate power transformers. Nearby the

transformers you will find jumper wires that correspond to the various primary windings of each power

transformer.

A total of six jumper wires are connected to the circuit board for 120 V operation. Two jumpers are

connected near each transformer; each jumper has 120 V printed alongside it on the circuit board.

Only 3 jumpers are connected to the circuit board for 220-240 V operation One jumper is connected

near each transformer; each jumper has 220 V printed alongside it on the circuit board.

For 220-240 V operation, you must also disconnect the six 120 V jumpers.

Posted

Congrats Padam!

To make sure you do not do something wrong, just check input resistance with a simple polimeter before and after the V change: must be 4x afterwards on every transformer (same primaries wired parallel for 110V, are wired now series for 220V).

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
Is there still no easy way to rip high rez music files to your hard drive? I want to use the PWD with high rez files, but the online selection is grim.

It's possible to rip DVD-A discs depending on the copy protection used and the type of lossless encoding is on the stereo layer. If any Windows users are interested I have a guide/program pack, though it's still quite a chore.

Edited by deepak
Posted

Needle drops require an A-D step.

Since it's PCM, I would expect/hope that ripping DVD-Audio is always in the digital domain, no? Different from copying analog-outs from an SACD player.

Posted

Is that if you do the ripping soley through the PC (ie. insert disc into PC's DVD-ROM drive)?

If you had an external DVD-A player (not your PC) that could output the full hi-rez signal, couldn't a PC soundcard with the appropriate digital interface (ie. coax) accept that signal into a single ripping application? Where's the technical bottleneck?

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