Smeggy Posted April 11, 2009 Author Report Posted April 11, 2009 it does look like orange agate doesn't it. I have a sheet of it but is a very different look. The lower one.. no clue but could be olive. I was just out buying more blanks, curly walnut, red heart, African Rosewood and a couple of others. Really pretty stuff. A lot of the stuf isn't labeled so I just grab what looks interesting. They also have an exotic wood bin where you buy by the pound @ $4.50/Ib.
naamanf Posted April 12, 2009 Report Posted April 12, 2009 Some many different types of really cool wood. One of these days I need to break down and get a small inexpensive lathe.
Nebby Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 I haven't played with a lathe yet, just another tool I must learn to use That wood sure looks nice! I checked out a local woodworker's shop and oogled the awesome Japanese hand planes and hand saws. I'll have to take pictures next time but all of them were hand made and were simply awesome.
pabbi1 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 I picked up a dovetail jig... tired of all my exotic stuff lying around, and tired of f'ing with aluminum.
909 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 I'm pretty sure you're supposed to use that in a well-ventilated area. not if you want a great contact high. you're actually supposed to use it in a paper bag held up to your face. now that's taking things a bit far, but some folks have built up a high tolerance after years of exposure, so to each their own.
Smeggy Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Posted April 13, 2009 if you don't mind a sticky and shiny face you can do direct injection to the face. Over to you Reks hehe
swt61 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Posted April 13, 2009 I checked out a local woodworker's shop and oogled the awesome Japanese hand planes and hand saws. I'll have to take pictures next time but all of them were hand made and were simply awesome. I love the way they look too, but I never could find the on/off switch. I picked up a dovetail jig... tired of all my exotic stuff lying around, and tired of f'ing with aluminum. You'll love it Al! It'll take a little while to dial it in, but well worth the effort.
Nebby Posted April 19, 2009 Report Posted April 19, 2009 I did some finish testing a few days ago and as much as I tried to like poly....I don't I looks good, but working with it and the feel that it has just doesn't do it for me. I think I'm going to go back to lacquer. How's your finishing experience going smeggy?
AlanY Posted April 19, 2009 Report Posted April 19, 2009 I did some finish testing a few days ago and as much as I tried to like poly....I don't I looks good, but working with it and the feel that it has just doesn't do it for me. I think I'm going to go back to lacquer. You were thinking of using poly on that beautiful veneer? I agree with you, lacquer or shellac!
Smeggy Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Posted April 19, 2009 I'm still liking the lacquer myself. Not as plastic feeling as poly.
Nebby Posted April 19, 2009 Report Posted April 19, 2009 You were thinking of using poly on that beautiful veneer? I agree with you, lacquer or shellac! I like to test out my options before making a decision I did learn a very important lesson yesterday on my test piece: tape the edges of the veneer before ironing the perpendicular piece. If glue gets on the veneer it's game over
screaming oranges Posted April 26, 2009 Report Posted April 26, 2009 I was going to make a new thread on what i am about to ask, but I figured this thread serves the same purpose (my question runs in parallel to the topic, not off on a tangent). My question revolves not so much around the visual aspect of the finish, but more on its acoustic properties. I have been considering here and there the possibility of making my own turntable (well, at least the plinth). The issue is, I have read many articles saying how certain lacquers can kill the natural sound of wood. That this is important on guitars and other musical instruments, I am sure, but does this matter with a turntable? The reason I ask this here is because I take the lot of you to be no-bullshit guys, so I am sure I'll get a pretty straight answer and not the placebo-laden rants some people go into just because they tried something different. Any opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.
n_maher Posted April 26, 2009 Report Posted April 26, 2009 I can't see how lacquer would affect a plinth. In an instrument you're counting on the wood to be a part of the equation, in a plinth you're using the mass to not vibrate. Two very different applications one in which I see the finish as an active player (instrument) and one in which I can't see a way it which it'd make a difference. That's my 2c.
pabbi1 Posted April 26, 2009 Report Posted April 26, 2009 All vintage guitars use nitrous-cellulose lacquer, but the only real effect would be on acoustic instruments, specifically the top, back and sides of the 'box' part, where they are typically finished on the outter shell anyway. I agree with Nate, as I cannot imagine any impact the finish would have wrt sonic properties. If you use a nice wood, hand rubbed (real) tung oil is hard to beat, where wipe on poly is indestructible.
swt61 Posted April 27, 2009 Report Posted April 27, 2009 And that makes three opinions that the finish on a plinth matters not, save for aesthetics. In musical instruments the wood is part of the equation as both Nate and Al have said. It's meant to resonate. Exactly the opposite of what you're looking for in a plinth. You're looking for the mass of wood to absorb resonance, just as Nate has stated. Personally I'd recommend a sealer coat, and 3 or 4 top coats of an oil based finish. These are my favorites, as they have modifiers that improve durability as well, but still have the depth and sheen of a great Tung oil finish. Buy Seal-a-Cell Clear Finish, Quart, GENERAL Seal-a-Cell Clear Finish, Oils - Buy Semi-Gloss Arm-R-Seal, Quart, GENERAL FINISHES Arm-R-Seal, Oils - I've used these products on my own plinth with outstanding results.
naamanf Posted April 27, 2009 Report Posted April 27, 2009 sponge brush or wipe on. I just use a clean soft rag. I really like the General finishes and it is all I pretty much use now.
Smeggy Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Posted April 27, 2009 Thanks, next trip to woodcraft and I'll stock up and give it a go.
swt61 Posted April 27, 2009 Report Posted April 27, 2009 It's definitely more work than lacquer, as each coat pretty well needs a day to dry. But I find it to be more durable, and the luster is exceptional. For my really important projects, or really superb woods, it's worth the extra effort. I let the project dictate the method of application. For instance on more intricate projects with lots of joinery, inside corners etc... I like to use a foam brush, because I can control the application better. On flat or simple projects I prefer to wipe it on with a cloth as Naaman suggests. I like to buff each coat out with 0000 steel wool, and I use compressed air to clean before the next application. It's my favorite finish as well.
kachui Posted April 27, 2009 Report Posted April 27, 2009 A friend made these from teak...paid a handsome price to him for them... IPod/IMod Dock
Smeggy Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Posted April 27, 2009 Very nice. I'm still battling with impatience, I think that's actually my biggest enemy.
guzziguy Posted April 27, 2009 Report Posted April 27, 2009 God grant me patience, and I mean right now!
Beefy Posted April 27, 2009 Report Posted April 27, 2009 A friend made these from teak...paid a handsome price to him for them... Snazzy!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now