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Posted

Wow, if I could do veneer and joints like that I would seriously consider tackling another speaker project for my office. I can't even come close so I remain frustrated and don't bother. That is really excellent work!

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Posted
Wow, if I could do veneer and joints like that I would seriously consider tackling another speaker project for my office. I can't even come close so I remain frustrated and don't bother. That is really excellent work!

To be honest, I expected to have more issues than I did with my first and second test pieces. What did you have issues with when veneering?

Posted

Hi,

Good, interesting post this, as I'm planning on building these speakers as well.

On the topic of MDF expansion due to moisture, I found in this thread diyAudio Forums - A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing - Page 1

that someone mentions sealing the MDF with wood hardener, such as you would use for treating rotten wood in a window frame.

I used it on the MDF subchassis of my Shigaclone, and apart from getting stoned on the fumes, it really does harden the MDF well, prior to spraying.

Posted

I picked up some fiberglass resin that I will be using as wood hardener. Tested and works well, though I will only be using it to seal the insides, the veneer glue should seal the outside well enough I think.

Posted

Yes the veneer glue will seal the outside just fine, as well as the finish on top of the veneer.

I've also used fiberglass resin to seal wood, and have had great success with it.

Great looking veneer joints! I may start farming out work to you! :)

Posted

It's actually just one joint, on the corner...but thanks nonetheless!

The toughest part of the resin was acquiring it, the fact it was in japanese didn't help :)

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Short update:

After a break in build waiting for parts, the SR-71 speakers are mostly done box-wise. The enclosures are glued and screwed together and the baffle mount corners are installed, and the Sonicbarrier foam is cut to size. I just have to cut out the holes for the port and Speakon connector from the foam for the rear panel. The baffle is still bare so I'll need to trim it to size (it's a touch larger than the box), run a roundover on it, route out the speaker cutouts then paint it black. Also, I have decided to go with external crossovers housed in a MDF case.

That being said while waiting for the glue to dry I worked on veneering my bargain mini's:

3816860865_0a32a6d240.jpg

Posted

After four coats of lacquer it's starting to look rather nice! I didn't do any test pieces with this veneer so I was praying that it would turn out well. So far I have no reason to think otherwise, thank goodness! *phew* :)

Posted

The two brace dowels for the SR-71 are now installed, along with the sonic barrier. It's now officially veneering time :) No picture since the inside is boring...but here's a pic of the lacquer satin finish on the bargain mini's:

3823018710_58388ecc29.jpg

Yes, it's not a great picture, but you can somewhat see how the curl is quite 3D even without flash.

Posted

Long-overdue-update:

After a break in build waiting for parts plus busy with other stuff, the SR-71 speakers are mostly done box-wise. The enclosures are glued and screwed together, the baffle mount corners are installed, Sonicbarrier foam is cut to size and installed, and brace dowels are installed. The baffle is still bare so I'll need to trim it to size (it's a touch larger than the box), run a roundover on it, route out the speaker cutouts then paint it black. Also, I have decided to go with external crossovers housed in a MDF case.

That being said while waiting for the glue to dry I worked on veneering my bargain mini's:

3816860865_0a32a6d240.jpg

Wet lacquer and flash make for some very eye-popping curl :)

Here they are after four coats and fully dried:

3823018710_58388ecc29.jpg

Yes, it's not a great picture, but you can somewhat see how the curl is quite 3D even without flash.

Next up...veneering the SR-71's! :cool:

Posted

I normally shop on ebay, if you aren't looking for the extremely exotic and can live with working around a couple defects you can get veneer for a bargain.

The bubinga was much easier to work with than the curly maple. The only issue I had with the bubinga was my own fault (not spraying enough softener before ironing the back panel of one of the speakers)

Posted

Finished painting the ZBM4's:

3844665655_91ea37745f.jpg

3844667497_e156a14053.jpg

That's with no flash and finish fully dry.

I decided it would make more sense to do the cutouts prior to sanding and finishing, so I routed out the hole for the port and it's countersink:

3844669471_9c7dfb8b07.jpg

3844671347_c020651885.jpg

3844673243_4516bb6b7a.jpg

3845466472_2a6db1577d.jpg

3845468426_2ac750a93f.jpg

3845470228_68ae43bb03.jpg

I also cut out the hole for the speakon connector, but the forstner bit was abused badly by other previous users, so my countersink ended up rougly 1/16ths of an inch too wide due to wobble from the bit. :( I think I'll be using some black sealant to fill in the gap along with sealing off the the speakon connector.

Posted

I'm still of the impression that the first one is Asian Satinwood. It's the grain behind the curls, and the coloring that makes me believe this. Many people sell it as Curly Maple though, because that's their first assumption. It's a beautiful wood!

jacksstand004816x612.jpg

Posted (edited)

The Silvery color in unfinished form and the Caramel color with a finish has me convinced. I've used a whole lot of Curly Maple, but I've never seen any with that coloration and graining.

However it's all good news IMO. Asian Satinwood is more exotic and certainly more expensive. That Caramel color is just gorgeous too!

BTW, I think your sealant idea will work great too. I'd just make damn sure I had everything masked very well with Blue masking tape first.

Edited by swt61

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