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Posted

Vibration isolation is a tricky thing. It all depends in what you want to accomplish. It's not the same trying to absorb and drain the vibration generated at a device to have it vibrating less, than to isolate a device from the environment, condemning it to keep its own vibrations into it.

For turntables I prefer a mixed thing. To drain the vibrations produced by the motor and the own platter spinning, I like high mass TTs with external separated motor, placed on a surface which can take both devices vibrations but it's isolated from the environment by some rubber, sorbotane or the like.

On a 1210 the first goal is difficult to achieve for being direct drive, however spiking the table on a high mass surface, could help to drain the table's vibration somewhat, then isolating that platform from the environment using absorbing feet, rubber or whatever alike, could help. Hence your idea could work quite well.

Posted

Color me highly skeptical of any company that makes claims like...

"You'll immediately hear the blacker background, the more-comprehensive detail, and the greater dynamic scope that are normally possible only with much more sophisticated (read: costly) playback equipment."

Translation: you'll immediately hear the placebo.

And I like their "our size is the only right size" approach too!

Posted

Here is the seller's advice:

Hi Pete

Yes, for supporting the MyrtleMat I recommend a set of our substantial Myrtlewood Iso Blox (2.6"x1.6"x1"). Better by far than the cheap rubber/cork numbers you sometimes see in this application (which are simply re-branded compressor feet from the HVAC industry.)

A set of our large Iso Blox is $21.

For what it's worth, maple butcher block does not insulate as well, or have the tonal quality of either solid single-piece maple or our proprietary myrtlewood platform (which is assembled from stock.) And generally, the same mass of myrtle will outperform maple in absorbing unwanted vibration and resonances. Myrtle's grain structure is that much more complex and diffuse. For comparison: even when using solid, single-piece maple, it can take a thickness of up to 6 inches to equal the sonic benefit you'll get with the 1 1/2 inch-thick MyrtleMat.

Best, Dan

Posted

I'd really like to see some science behind Dan's claims, specifically how he figures out the absorption properties of various woods. So far, I'm getting that fuzzy Machina Dynamica vibe out of this guy. Disclaimer: I don't think that everything audio related needs to tie back to hard science but the concepts discussed here strike me as being something that should be easily quantified and reported.

Posted

I can't speak from personal experience, since I haven't tried any isolation techniques on my 1200, but the general consensus I pick up with regards to the mounting is similar to what Torpedo has suggested: place the TT on a high mass surface. However, many report that using the sorbothane feet sold by KAB completely deadens the sound, so vibration absorbing feet might not be a good idea.

Currently my TT sits on a dedicated (but cheap and light) wood table. It does fine, but I've often thought of buying a thicker amp-stand affair for it, maybe with an additional wood slab for the 1200 to rest on. Then again, it seems you can never go wrong with a wall shelf, which is what I've been thinking a lot of recently.

Posted

Interesting... in order for vibration isolating feet to deaden the sound of the turntable, they must be vibrating in some way which feeds back to the platter or tonearm, thus affecting the sound. They either transmit more vibration from the surface beneath them into the TT, or they absorb turntable vibrations and in turn vibrate at some frequency back into the turntable, which screws up its sound.

Posted
Interesting... in order for vibration isolating feet to deaden the sound of the turntable, they must be vibrating in some way which feeds back to the platter or tonearm, thus affecting the sound. They either transmit more vibration from the surface beneath them into the TT, or they absorb turntable vibrations and in turn vibrate at some frequency back into the turntable, which screws up its sound.

Interesting!

Keep in mind my source on this is random people on Vinyl Asylum. YMMV.

Posted

Pete, there are many ways of isolating a Technics.

Does your technics currently have the stock feet? If so, order some ash trays that are deep and which have at least 6 notches to place a cigarette. Then go to office depot, buy some heavy duty rubber bands and criss-cross them across the notches. Place one under each foot and you'll have some high-end isolation. I kid you not - it's an old DJ trick to avoid the subs vibrations.

If you don't have the stock feet, then use two cutting boards with a tire tube in the middle. Inflate it so that it supports the table evenly.

You could also balance the table using 4 or 3 racket blue balls. If you use 3, put then under the table in an equilateral triangle.

Good luck. :)

Posted

Myrtle wood for some reason seems to be the latest kick on anti resonance. I've never found it to be any different than many other more common woods.

I'd be more interested in mass as well, and if the Myrtle slab were 3" thick and a competitive price great, otherwise I'd opt for a nice thick slab of Maple. I'd set the slab on rubber/cork/rubber pads and use cones under my table.

That's exactly the setup I use, and in a few days I'll be using Torpedo's table ideas as well.

Posted

^

Yeah it's an interesting idea to try this for anti resonant use. I'd have to try it out to see how it works, but in theory it should only help.

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