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Posted

One quick thought on vandal-style momentary switches, 16mm is pretty small. I got a few lighted 16mm momentary switches and found that they're just too tiny for my fat fingers and would have quickly become annoying to use.

Posted
One quick thought on vandal-style momentary switches, 16mm is pretty small. I got a few lighted 16mm momentary switches and found that they're just too tiny for my fat fingers and would have quickly become annoying to use.

good point. I imagine I would use the remote 90% of the time, but who knows. All good suggestions guys, thanks!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

well, long story short is that a very large case from FPE is very, very expensive. The top alone was going to be around $200... so, I had to improvise. The case I got is a bit of a :palm: because, it is too deep to fit in my rack, or probably anyone's rack. That being said, here's what I've decided for the front panel:

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Posted

problem is, that the pre-made panel I will be processing is only 2.5mm thick, and it has extrusions that are required for the case assembly. I'm hoping I will be able to get enough thread from the blind holes in the rear to mount the 4 PCBs needed on the back..

Posted

Why only 2.5mm? Is it to accommodate other panel mounted accessories? If so, I'd be nervous about having less than 2mm of thread depth. That might be enough to get two or three threads on a 4-40 screw but I wonder how many turns you'd get with a blind tap? That'd be one of those things I'd want to test before ordering an entire (expensive) panel. It might be easier to provide recessed areas for panel mounted components that can't handle a thicker panel.

Posted
Why only 2.5mm? Is it to accommodate other panel mounted accessories? If so, I'd be nervous about having less than 2mm of thread depth. That might be enough to get two or three threads on a 4-40 screw but I wonder how many turns you'd get with a blind tap? That'd be one of those things I'd want to test before ordering an entire (expensive) panel. It might be easier to provide recessed areas for panel mounted components that can't handle a thicker panel.

sorry, I wasn't clear. The front panel has some extrusions to support the case assembly. I think it might be possible to get the entire panel fabricated at FPE, but I'd have to really think hard about it as I'd need to work in some angle brackets and a flange for the case lid. Too much to think about at the moment, as I'm really really wanting to get this baby singing soon.

I totally agree about the thread. In fact, the VFD I'm using requires 2.5mm screws to mount, so I'm consider going with M2.5 or a fine threaded screws everywhere to get more threads. Think this might work out? The FPE bottoming taps or whatever they use are very nice and there is very little wasted space. That being said, there is not much to work with so ....

Posted

How bad would it look to use counter-sunk fasteners through the front panel and avoid the whole headache? Me, I like fasteners so I don't mind it when they're exposed sometimes if they serve a clear purpose. Granted, I think I was the one that suggested using blind taps in a thread somewhere around here. :)

Bottom line, maybe it's worth a call to FPE to see what they think about the hole depth vs. fastener size? They're the experts.

Posted
How bad would it look to use counter-sunk fasteners through the front panel and avoid the whole headache? Me, I like fasteners so I don't mind it when they're exposed sometimes if they serve a clear purpose. Granted, I think I was the one that suggested using blind taps in a thread somewhere around here. :)

Bottom line, maybe it's worth a call to FPE to see what they think about the hole depth vs. fastener size? They're the experts.

yeah, I agree with the both of you. Problem is, they won't be symmetrical... gah, I dunno what to do. I'll talk to FPE.

Posted

insanity... FPE can go down to 0.5mm material remaining without marring the front. Add on another 0.5mm that is unusable due to the tap. That leaves a hair over 1.5mm remaining. Cue up some M2.5x.45 standoffs at Mouser that I'll use. I should get 3 useful threads. yay!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

getting closer. Just need to decide what type of screws to use on the rear panel.. need to figure out how to mill the buttons now, as you can see the actuators in the picture. I went with a slight countersink on the rear as discussed above, so I need some "top hat" shaped buttons.. Also, I'm looking for a "smooth" Alps rotary decoder for the volume.

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Posted
Wow, looking good!

I got some panels in today as well but I can't publish them yet. :)

I'm sorry, if you're not going to post pics you simply cannot bait us with the knowledge that you received any panels at all!

Yeesh! Talk about your faux pas.

Now Marc on the other hand did post pics of his new panels, and I want to say how absolutely yummy they look!

We just have no way of knowing if Nate's are yummy too, or look like dog poo. :P

Posted

Oh that's much better! The dreaded Red X that just sits there when clicked upon. Thanks a lot!

:P

Oops, I spoke too soon. In the immortal words of Rosanne Rosanna Danna... "Never Mind".

Posted
Fine, fine ya' bunch of angry bastards.

105788753.jpg

My lawyer tells me that's all I can show you for now.

Very HeadAmpish, which is an alltogether good thing!

Posted
Very HeadAmpish, which is an alltogether good thing!

Not really intentional but Justin and I seem to share a similar appreciation for the clean approach to panels/design. I also certainly take that comment as a compliment. :)

Posted
Not really intentional but Justin and I seem to share a similar appreciation for the clean approach to panels/design. I also certainly take that comment as a compliment. :)

I certainly would! Ends with an "o"....

Sluggo?

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