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Posted (edited)

Have you had your eyesight checked recently?

* Camera Shake?

* (too) long exposure ?

* too Narrow DoF?

* too low ISO for available light?

If a zoom lens , fully zoom in , focus on some fine detail ( at max zoom ) then zoom back out for framing ?

Edited by Grahame
Posted

Patience, Grasshopper.

Mastery is its own reward.

From my wet film days.

Breath Control.

Posture / Bracing / Grip. (Essentially are you a stable platform for the camera)

Squuuueeeezing the shutter release, gently , rather than pounding on it.

Keep at it Dinny, and have fun.

  • Like 1
Posted

Also check for body/lens focus accuracy. If either is back or front focusing you won't get sharp images. Do you sometimes get images that are in focus? Are you checking to make sure that something on the window isn't what the af is focusing on?

Posted

CJ, I've been checking that. It was a hot debate about the D7000 re back focusing. Wondering if perhaps that could be an issue. More likely I am the issue though.

I'm going to rent a D700 again to see if I find it easier to focus. Could be I just don't like/understand this focusing system.

Posted

Rangefinder>SLR.

Just saying.

And yea, the aftermarket screens are nice. I use a ~$20 Chinese one, but if I had the cash I would definitely go nicer. This one blacks-out too early :(

Posted

CJ, I've been checking that. It was a hot debate about the D7000 re back focusing. Wondering if perhaps that could be an issue. More likely I am the issue though.

I'm going to rent a D700 again to see if I find it easier to focus. Could be I just don't like/understand this focusing system.

If you want to test your camera for proper focusing, use the method Thom Hogan describes in this article about the D800. While he wrote it specifically about that D800's left focus error issue, it is a very good description of how to properly test a phase-detect system for AF accuracy. http://www.bythom.com/D800autofocus.htm

If your camera tests out such that there is a difference between the phase detect and contrast detect (live view) AF, then you either need to try using AF fine tune to get rid of the difference, and the same test setup will allow you to easily dial in the right value. If all of your lenses test out to have a very large offset (say +/-15) that is consistent, then the camera body likely the source of the issues.

Also, on these high-end Nikons with many AF sensors, you have to be careful about the AF settings you are using. There are a number of subtle settings that control the AF array, and they can make a critical difference, especially if you are using continuous AF. I recommend reading up on the current Nikon AF systems, either on a Nikon-related forum like FredMiranda or NikonCafe, or the advice of someone like Thom Hogan.

If it is not a camera/lens calibration issue, or a camera settings issue, then you might have to start considering the monkey behind the viewfinder.

  • Like 2
Posted

Haha I looked at that and I knew it was taken with a Rebel or and older DSLR. Something with like a 97% viewfinder.

If you were talking about my photo you would be right. I used a Canon T3i with a 24-105L lens. I rented the lens for the trip and will be buying one sometime later this year. I took a lot of pictures on this trip. I am still learning to use all the camera settings. I would take the same shot over and over using different settings just to see what they did. By the end I had gotten to where I could use the full manual mode as long as I had plenty of time to take the shot. I want to get good enough to justify buying a 5d in a year or so.

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