The Official Head-Case Photography Thread.

[Knuckledragger]

I'm not sure about having a touchscreen on a DSLR.

[nikongod]

I have been looking for a Konica Wai-Wai ultrawide angle disposeable camera for a few months. It has an 18mm, full frame, plastic lens. But 18mm!!! I want to take the lens out and put it in my Leica. I Just got an email from someone who found a stash of them in their freezer... So excited.

http://moominsean.bl...wai.html

http://www.toycamera...konica-wai-wai/

http://www.lomograph...sposable-camera

I bought 2. One to keep stock, one to hack up.

I'm really sorry to hear that John. It totally sucks and shows it can happen to anyone.

+1

As for me, I had been toying with the idea of full frame and I will still grab a D700 for the right price, but I also realize that the D7000 is still so much more advanced than my own skills that I need to get the hang of it first. I will save and buy some FX glass as a next step.

I shot my son's baseball game in the bright sun the other day. Not easy. But I was much better about freezing the action as I had enough light to work with fast shutter speeds while keeping the ISO reasonable. Exposure was all over the place, so I need to figure that out, but at least the relationship between speed, light, shutter speed, ISO is starting to come together.

Bright sunlight is surprisingly hard.

What do you mean "exposure was all over the place"?

The biggest advantage I see with FF sensors today is with ultrawideangle lenses. If your not interested in stuff wider than ~24mm (about 16mm on crop) I don't think it matters that much. APS-c sensors still get plenty of Bokeh when you shoot that way.

[Beefy]

What do you mean "exposure was all over the place"?

I would guess it is the same problem I have had in bright light when trying to catch things fast. The usual setting of centre-weighted metering doesn't quite get the hint of what you want, thus you get beautifully detailed sunny skies with dark foreground. My solution is to use centre spot metering on desired target, exposure lock, then re-frame - it blows out the highlights in the sky, but gives me what I want. If anybody has a better technique, I'd love to hear it.

*

Anybody have any experience with tough compact cameras? I am eyeing off the new Olympus TG-1 as a small carry around for holiday, kayaking, snowy days, etc. when the dSLR is too risky or heavy.

Edited June 27, 2012 by Beefy

[Beefy]

* Cock up *

Edited June 27, 2012 by Beefy

[The Monkey]

I would guess it is the same problem I have had in bright light when trying to catch things fast. The usual setting of centre-weighted metering doesn't quite get the hint of what you want, thus you get beautifully detailed sunny skies with dark foreground. My solution is to use centre spot metering on desired target, exposure lock, then re-frame - it blows out the highlights in the sky, but gives me what I want. If anybody has a better technique, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks, this describes my problem exactly.

[nikongod]

I would guess it is the same problem I have had in bright light when trying to catch things fast. The usual setting of centre-weighted metering doesn't quite get the hint of what you want, thus you get beautifully detailed sunny skies with dark foreground. My solution is to use centre spot metering on desired target, exposure lock, then re-frame - it blows out the highlights in the sky, but gives me what I want. If anybody has a better technique, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks, this describes my problem exactly.

I personally lean towards Matrix metering. Its much better at guessing what you want.

After that, dial in some exposure compensation to get the people where you want them.

Nobody agrees with me, but loosing the sky to blank whiteness isnt that big of a sin. Certainly not as bad as underexposed people in people pictures.

Edited June 27, 2012 by nikongod

[Iron_Dreamer]

I'm to the point where I use me-metering most of the time. I find I'm generally better at knowing the exposure I want in most conditions than the camera is.

[falkon]

I shot my son's baseball game in the bright sun the other day. Not easy. But I was much better about freezing the action as I had enough light to work with fast shutter speeds while keeping the ISO reasonable. Exposure was all over the place, so I need to figure that out, but at least the relationship between speed, light, shutter speed, ISO is starting to come together.

I haven't used Nikons much but when I played with the d90, I always remapped the Fn button (the one on the front of the camera) to do spot metering. That way I could choose on the spot which one to use. To use matrix, use your camera as normal. To use spot, hold down the Fn button while depressing the shutter release. When you're shooting directly into the sunlight it's always best to use spot metering. This is honestly my favorite feature of Nikons that Canons lack.

Edit: Also, if you're shooting into sunlight and your subject is in range of your flash (check the guide number of the flash), don't hesitate to use fill flash.

Edit again: If some guy says, "Hey, your flash is on, buddy." I always reply, "Oh yeah.. I don't know how to turn it off."

Edited June 28, 2012 by falkon

[nikongod]

Fill flash for the win!

Butterfly by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr

[Jon L]

Omen

DZ3C4252 by drjlo1, on Flickr

[The Monkey]

ooh, I like that.

Nikon firmware update for a bunch of models.

[grawk]

I love your photos Jon

[boomana]

As do I.

[Torpedo]

It's a really wonderful picture

[Jon L]

Much appreciated

[The Monkey]

Could use your help gang. I was using the Nikon 35 1.8 today and I do not like the images I was getting. No matter what I did, I got hazy images. And it doesn't appear to be happening with the 18-200 vr. An example appears below. What would be an explanation for this. Certainly poor skill and technique are at work, but I usually get at least non-hazy images with the 35 1.8. Any input would be appreciated.

[Jon L]

Looks like haziness is due to flare from the window directly facing the lens top right. If the window was shaded or photo taken from the opposite direction, it shouldn't be hazy any more.

[The Monkey]

Thanks Jon, but I was getting it in all contexts. I'll try to upload another example.

[Torpedo]

Grease on the lenses? Any of the lens coatings deteriorated? It looks more like haze a la Hamilton than overexposure

[crappyjones123]

Man little monkey has grown up fast.

[The Monkey]

Looks like haziness is due to flare from the window directly facing the lens top right. If the window was shaded or photo taken from the opposite direction, it shouldn't be hazy any more.

Thanks Jon. I cleaned the lens and it looks better now. The only consistent haziness seems to be due to the flare you described above.

Man little monkey has grown up fast.

It goes too fast.

[Dreadhead]

It goes too fast.

I saw a mother on TV describe it as "The days are long but the years are short" I think that's about right.

My little guy turns 9 months today.

[The Monkey]

I saw a mother on TV describe it as "The days are long but the years are short" I think that's about right.

My little guy turns 9 months today.

I like that quote. Sums it up nicely.

[Iron_Dreamer]

Had a chance to do a bit of serious shooting for the first time in a while yesterday, here's one that I ended up liking:

[mikeymad]

Nice .. I do like long exposures of the ocean...