Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

[luvdunhill]

I just sent out PayPal request for the remaining parts and the shipping. I have the kits in the car ready to mail. Please make sure you send your current shipping address, so I can verify it with the one that PayPal has on file.

I didn't get around to matching the Toshiba semiconductors, but will soon. They'll come in a second shipping in a ESD bag, inside a Jiffy envelope.

There "may or may not" be a few "d'ohs" in the BOM... we can discuss when everyone gets their parts.

For those using the case I purchased, things are tight. I have sent a case to swt61 and instructions and perhaps he can post pictures when he's done mounting things. I'm notoriously bad at judging spatial relationships in cases, so it's nice to know a few more sets of eyes will be looking at the case layout aspect of the project.

If you don't know what a particular part is used for, just ask as everything should have a use At the moment, the only missing parts not included that I know of are #4-40 screws for the heat sinks (you need 3 per) and hook-up wire. Please let me know if you find something else It's a very nice kit, and should be a very straightforward build.

Thanks again guys!

[swt61]

Once I receive the case and make my gameplan I'll try to document that part of the project.

[luvdunhill]

Once I receive the case and make my gameplan I'll try to document that part of the project.

cool!!

Here's my basic idea. Assemble the case. Remove the top and the back panel. Point the front of the case away from you. Stick the side of the PCB that accepts power towards the front of the case. Then shove the PCB in the bottom-left corner as far as it will go. The IEC inlet will be on the right and power cables will route down this side. Bolt the toroid(s) onto the front panel. Stick one capacitor clamp in the upper right corner and one in the upper left corner right up against the front panel and the side panel. Then mount the two bridges on the bottom of the case between the capacitors in the middle.

Obviously, the front panel will look a bit lame with bolts sticking out of it, and that's where the wood comes into play

[swt61]

cool!!

Here's my basic idea. Assemble the case. Remove the top and the back panel. Point the front of the case away from you. Stick the side of the PCB that accepts power towards the front of the case. Then shove the PCB in the bottom-left corner as far as it will go. The IEC inlet will be on the right and power cables will route down this side. Bolt the toroid(s) onto the front panel. Stick one capacitor clamp in the upper right corner and one in the upper left corner right up against the front panel and the side panel. Then mount the two bridges on the bottom of the case between the capacitors in the middle.

Obviously, the front panel will look a bit lame with bolts sticking out of it, and that's where the wood comes into play

Hmmm, interesting. I'll have to see everything before I can envision it, but the bolts holding the toroids shouldn't be too hard to cover with the wood trim.

I'm glad you have an idea as to how to fit everything, I'll definitely try your idea first.

[luvdunhill]

Hmmm, interesting. I'll have to see everything before I can envision it, but the bolts holding the toroids shouldn't be too hard to cover with the wood trim.

I'm glad you have an idea as to how to fit everything, I'll definitely try your idea first.

well, feel free to experiment. Since this is a phono stage, input and output connections should be as short as possible and power should be routed away from things and kept as short as possible as well (including connections to toroids, diode bridges, and the like). If possible, it would be nice to separate/shield the toroids more.

Perhaps a tuna can or mandarin orange can could help shield them?

[deepak]

<- me

I just messaged Marc. If anyone doesn't see themselves building this, I would gladly take the kit or individual boards (2) off your hands.

[luvdunhill]

<- me

I just messaged Marc. If anyone doesn't see themselves building this, I would gladly take the kit or individual boards (2) off your hands.

[guzziguy]

maybe earwig will decide he needs a phono preamp and will ask for a kit. he'll build it, with your help of course.

[luvdunhill]

maybe earwig will decide he needs a phono preamp and will ask for a kit. he'll build it, with your help of course.

he already has a top-of-the-line phono preamp*, why would he stoop down to this level?

assuming the gear in his sig isn't totally made up..

[guzziguy]

he already has a top-of-the-line phono preamp*, why would he stoop down to this level?

assuming the gear in his sig isn't totally made up..

Maybe he wants a balanced vinyl front end.

[deepak]

I think the only thing I'd want from his setup is his Loricraft

On topic: for getting to try and build my Pearl. Vinyl forever

[swt61]

I received the case and parts today. It will indeed be a tight fit, but I think it's workable.

I think Marc will be bringing the chilluns to the beach tomorrow, so I'll go over it in person with him then. I'm much more of a visual learner than an aural learner.

This case aches for a wooden front panel, with the 1/2" recess and all. I had some 6" wide Bloodwood laying around, so that's what I used. They're in the first coat of lacquer now, and need a few notches cut into the back after finishing.

Once Marc and I agree on the internal layout I'll drill all the mounting holes and post some pics.

[deepak]

Steve what wood do you have planned for the case? And are you just doing just the front panel or sides as well?

[swt61]

Steve what wood do you have planned for the case? And are you just doing just the front panel or sides as well?

Just the front panel, where the panel is recessed 1/2".

Here's a pic, although I have the case sitting on it's back...

The wood panel stands proud of the sides by 1/4", and the sides of the wood panel are chamfered 1/4". The top and bottom are rounded over 1/4" to match the round corners of the metal side pieces.

[deepak]

Just the front panel, where the panel is recessed 1/2".

Here's a pic, although I have the case sitting on it's back...

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/3638/passpearlcase002600x450ik4.jpg[/iM]

The wood panel stands proud of the sides by 1/4", and the sides of the wood panel are chamfered 1/4". The top and bottom are rounded over 1/4" to match the round corners of the metal side pieces.

Very nicely done

[luvdunhill]

Steve:

Looks great!

[swt61]

Steve:

Looks great!

Thanks, I was hoping you'd like the Bloodwood OK, as it's the only wood I had on hand that was wide enough.

[DigiPete]

Doing some assembly today, the big caps and heatsink just placed on for effect at this point

The zener diodes sent out wont fit the holes on the boards.

Here are some pics so far:

[DigiPete]

nice paper towel.

It's my sterilized field

[luvdunhill]

looks good. So the zeners won't fit? That sucks.

One tip for the loading resistors. Go ahead and bend the resistors and stick the pins on them, and then solder them in the board. Makes things much easier. I use a clip on heat sink to hold one pin while I solder the other.. I'm sure other more specialized tools can be used as well.

Also, your heat sink is upside down

edit:

stick the zener in the battery holes, I bet it will fit there.

[DigiPete]

looks good. So the zeners won't fit? That sucks.

One tip for the loading resistors. Go ahead and bend the resistors and stick the pins on them, and then solder them in the board. Makes things much easier. I use a clip on heat sink to hold one pin while I solder the other.. I'm sure other more specialized tools can be used as well.

Also, your heat sink is upside down

It had a bit better surface contact with the transistor that way,

but since it isn't soldered in yet I can reverse it

Any estimates on the remaining transistors?

[luvdunhill]

yeah, I'm still working on the jig. I can test 3 x 2SK170 at a time now and 1 x 2SJ74. I can match Vgs at varying currents as well as measure Idss. I need will order parts to get this up to 5 and 5 (the board will look a lot more crowded at that point). I can also order the zener diodes as well. Anything else you think is lacking from the kit at this point?

side note: I think I'm getting better with using the flash on my G9... what do you think of the pic?

[n_maher]

Looks pretty nicely lit assuming that's the on board flash. Of course that camera has a shoe so you'd be better still getting an external unit like the 430ex and experiment with a diffuser or bounce.

[luvdunhill]

Looks pretty nicely lit assuming that's the on board flash. Of course that camera has a shoe so you'd be better still getting an external unit like the 430ex and experiment with a diffuser or bounce.

yeah, the camera is great when I'm outside shooting pictures, but I seem to want to take pictures of DIY stuff either late at night or early in the morning, and at those times I'm confined to my small office with it's really crappy overhead lighting. I need to look into a flash at some point ...

[DigiPete]

That's quite the test rig!

Looks like we will have some very nicely matched transistors

So how does one go about using the 9v battery, and, are there benefits?