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Posted

actually, I found someone with a stash of the original PCBs sold by PassDIY. So, I'm going to go this route myself. I will inquire on how many they have.

Also, if anyone is wanting to split a pair (the boards are mono, so 2 required for stereo) I'm up for that too as I'd like a single board for a mono preamp.

Posted

That's way over my head :). If 2 of these can be made into a balanced phono stage, I need to talk to someone about what it'd take to get that done...

Posted
That's way over my head :). If 2 of these can be made into a balanced phono stage, I need to talk to someone about what it'd take to get that done...

yeah, it cannot really be made into a phono stage with balanced outputs...

Posted

Price will be $40 per stereo set, with a few dollars for shipping from Germany to me (depends on the number of people interested, probably around $4) and then a few dollars shipping from me to you. The board files are available, but I'd rather go this route personally. I'll close this IC on Friday 7/11/08 and collect money over the weekend.

Posted

Depending on how it breaks down it might actually be better to have the boards sent to someone in the US who could then send you your set and forward along the others saving an unnecessary trans-Atlantic trip. Just a thought.

Posted

yes, that's the plan.

I may be doing a group buy for the Linear Systems JFETs, assuming there is enough demand. These will work fine with these boards if you cannot come across the Toshiba parts.

Posted
yes, that's the plan.

I may be doing a group buy for the Linear Systems JFETs, assuming there is enough demand. These will work fine with these boards if you cannot come across the Toshiba parts.

The footprint/package type isn't even close to being the same on these???
Posted
MILSPEC???

heh..

the Toshiba parts a D1G1S1xS1G1D1 from left to right. The LSK389 are S1D1G1 on one side (so snake the S1 between D1 and G1 and your good there) and S2D2G2 on the other (so snake G2 between S2 and D2). I'd recommend using zigzag sockets on the original 2sk389 socket to facilitate this, so you can get the new device situated in the socket and then plug the socket into the PCB and solder it.

If you're less adventurous, just use a matched pair of the single devices.

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