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Posted

A friend of mine gave me an Agfa Snapscan 1212u flatbed scanner (USB). It appears to be an older, but very nice unit. Unfortunately, he didn't have the power supply for it. It needs 16 volds DC/900mA, in a barrel connector <mumble> size, tip positive. I can get one of the connectors @ Rat Shack, but where am I going to find a 16v PSU that puts 1A or so?

Posted

Good idea but I am uh, not one who should be trusted around a soldering iron. The last electronics project I made was in high school, ca. 1991. Blinking lights for a model railroad crossing grade, that used IR leds to trigger. It didn't work.

Posted

Take a look at http://www.jameco.com, although in a quick check there I didn't find any 16V supplies. You can also look at Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor or Digi-Key Corporation - USA Home Page.

Another approach would be to get a 24V DC unregulated wallwart of appropriate current output and build a Tread module Product Details. This would insulate you from having to deal with AC directly at least.

Ratshack has a couple you could look at as well.

http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2818335&cp=2032056.2818119&allCount=45&f=Brand%2F1000094%2F&fbx=0&fbc=1&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FOver+12V&fbn=Type%2FOver+12V

The 13.5V - 30V adapter does not list the actual voltages it does. They also have a 15V 1A adapter that might work as well.

Posted

Thanks, I'm looking into a couple of those options now. The Rat Shack solution would be the simplest, the Agfa doesn't mind operating at 1v less than normal.

I did a quick peek on ebay, and there are a mess of 16v PSUs. I notice most seem to have the same size barrel connector. I wonder is 16v is standardized the way 9v is (often) when it comes to wall warts.

Posted

I wouldn't count on standardization. Keep an eye on the center pin polarity as well to avoid doorstop syndrome.

Posted

I went to Rat Shack and got a 15v/1A PSU and the proper tip ("Q" type according to RS nomenclature.) I set the tip polarity correctyl (positive) plugged it n and ...nothing. Even with a USB connection to my PC ...nothing.

I could be that this scanner is dead, and that's why it was separated from its PSU, or it could be that it's bitchy enough to work with 15v when it wants 16v. I have a feeling I'm done futzing with it. :rolleyes:

Posted

I'd wager if you measured the output of that 15V PSU it'd probably be pretty close to 16V so I'm thinking there's something else wrong with the scanner unfortunately.

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