dBel84 Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 You're definitely spot on about that. I just thought it was a little weird that it sounds like the stock T50RP has tighter or as tight bass than the heavily modded YH3. I am just not feeling all this T50RP love .... yet. Earl sent me his set to tinker with and I have to say that they don't stand a chance against any and all of my ortho's (including my SFI) . They actually sound a little like the very first SFI I made - overpronounced mids, nice high end , bass representation of lower frequencies but little or no impact. The tonal balance is also way off to my ears, if I had picked these up stock as a test, instead of F2D, I would have most likely not recommended them at all. These are "burnt" in so this is not a factor here. Perhaps my ears are just expecting too much after using the YH1K as my goto headphone for the past month, ( yes I did dress her up and added some underwear - couldn't let her go around indecent for such a long time ). Time & tinker will tell if I can get them to shine ..dB
faust3d Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 Well if you look up my first post about these you will see that it was not a gloving review I like them but I still think they about at the level of YH-1 or T20, a bit better in many ways. So far non of the orthos I heard reach to the level of any Lambda variants. I would love to hear YH-1000 to see if it's close to O2. I bet the bass impact is very nice as with all the orthos. But how is the soundstage? I was thinking... As you might now I am a soundsatge freak. I can't image YH-1000 having soundstage beyond normal type headphones. The drivers are not angled and non of the headstage shaping technics are in place, does YH1K have good soundstage, what caparisons can you provide?
mypasswordis Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 I am just not feeling all this T50RP love .... yet. Earl sent me his set to tinker with and I have to say that they don't stand a chance against any and all of my ortho's (including my SFI) . They actually sound a little like the very first SFI I made - overpronounced mids, nice high end , bass representation of lower frequencies but little or no impact. The tonal balance is also way off to my ears, if I had picked these up stock as a test, instead of F2D, I would have most likely not recommended them at all. These are "burnt" in so this is not a factor here. Perhaps my ears are just expecting too much after using the YH1K as my goto headphone for the past month, ( yes I did dress her up and added some underwear - couldn't let her go around indecent for such a long time ). Time & tinker will tell if I can get them to shine ..dB Well, I thought the stock sound was dominated by the bloated low mids because of the resonances from the cups. As I keep saying, once I added some damping to the cups and a layer of felt on top of that to absorb backwave, the bass punch/impact I get is huge. Easily the most of any of my headphones. Everything becomes more right and you can begin to start tinkering like you would normally do with the other orthos. Well, minus the front fabric; I'm still not sure whether I should cut a hole in it. I think the lightning fast and huge punch is partially provided by the decoupling of the drivers to the cups using the little rubber things, which doesn't really work until the cups can handle it. Faust, you have to hear my T40. Sure, it's not going to beat out your Sigma or even your Lambdas in size of soundstage, but it's nearly at the level of the Lambdas, which is better than most orthos, and I think the soundstage is slightly better defined as well.
faust3d Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 wow, just read my post, I can't spell to save my life
Smeggy Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 Heh, well as we all know everyone has preferences. Unmodded I still like the T50RP, modded I lied them a lot, extreme modded I love them. That doesn't mean anyone else will, I generally prefer the various Fostexes to the various Yammys so a lot just comes down to the type of sound sig you prefere. I spent the last two days listening to the T30 and now T50v2 and they all sound wonderful to me.
Torpedo Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 Smeggy, any tips to make those T30 a bit more comfortable? I received mine a couple of days ago and I'm liking what I'm hearing, but the damn things give sore ears pretty quickly. And I'm not specially finicky about that, I can wear the Grados for hours. Also some comments about how similar/different are the TR50RP and T30 would help to make my mind up about getting a pair of TR50. Thanks.
ludoo Posted January 18, 2009 Report Posted January 18, 2009 I spent the last two days listening to the T30 and now T50v2 and they all sound wonderful to me. I spent half a day today with my "basement setup", the T20 and my small Yaha, and I was surprised at how good they sound after having ignored them for a while. Fostexes have a lot going for them, once they are properly damped.
wualta Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Also some comments about how similar/different are the TR50RP and T30 would help to make my mind up about getting a pair of TR50. Thanks. First, congrats on getting a T30. The two headphones couldn't be more different internally. The T30 has an open back and a huge (~60mm) driver, and the T50RPv2 (which is not the same as a T50v2) has a little driver with about the same surface area as the little SFI driver (38mm) and a closed back with a little vent. The T30 is bassy and the T50RPv2 is midrangey. Neither is perfect, both need work, but the T50RPv2 will need less work to get it sounding good and is easier to work on. A real orthonut should have both.
Torpedo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 First, congrats on getting a T30. The two headphones couldn't be more different internally. The T30 has an open back and a huge (~60mm) driver, and the T50RPv2 (which is not the same as a T50v2) has a little driver with about the same surface area as the little SFI driver (38mm) and a closed back with a little vent. The T30 is bassy and the T50RPv2 is midrangey. Neither is perfect, both need work, but the T50RPv2 will need less work to get it sounding good and is easier to work on. A real orthonut should have both. I still don't qualify as orthonut, but I might hehehe. I've been reading posts at HF and here about the T30, but seems they're not as popular as other models, and didn't find much information about tweaks to improve the sound. I've been doing my little experiments and I've noticed that placing the driver a bit further from the ear but keeping good seal (I used a set of CD3000 pads over the phone "as is") makes the bass more balanced to the rest of the spectrum and gives a huge amount of air and more natural decay to the treble. However the midrange suffers and gets a slight honky coloration, losing body and the right timbre they have IMHO. I suppose I'd need to make the current pads a bit thicker and also more comfy by using a material more skin friendly than the plastic it uses. Have you performed any pads mod or replacement on the T30? I also think that some benefits could be obtained by damping a bit the enclosure internals to get rid of a small resonance at about 50Hz, but I fear that overdamping could make the bass too fast to sound natural. Also some reflective material on the driver's back might increase the treble output, but I wouldn't do that until I had changed the pads, since using thicker ones already brings the treble out. Any suggestions will be very welcome. I'm not a DIYer to make my own enclosures, which I feel would be the optimal solution, and also making a less clamping headband which allowed drivers twisting to fit the ears skew to the frontal plane. Have you "transplanted" the drivers into another enclosure like Beyer's or any other with success?
Smeggy Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Sadly I can't offer much help on the T30 sound or comfort as the first thing I did after a quick preview was to remove the drivers and put the rest in the parts bin. Nothing about my T30 is original but the driver. It has a more open back woody, felt, different headband/pads and homemade swivels.
Torpedo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Sadly I can't offer much help on the T30 sound or comfort as the first thing I did after a quick preview was to remove the drivers and put the rest in the parts bin. Nothing about my T30 is original but the driver. It has a more open back woody, felt, different headband/pads and homemade swivels. LOL, make a clone of that and send it to me hehehehe. Pics?
Smeggy Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Poor Pro30s Ah, but that's the thing. My mod doesn't affect the Pro 30. The two cups are interchangeable. I can remove the T30 cups with the thumbscrews and snap the Pro 30 in place. I made sure I didn't mess up the locking clip for the Realistic .
Torpedo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Very cool mate. What pads are those, also Pro 30?
ludoo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Posted January 19, 2009 Still waiting for the damn post to deliver the smeggyfied YH-1. Damn...
Kabeer Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Still waiting for the damn post to deliver the smeggyfied YH-1. Damn... Italian post seems like your local postie got distracted!
wualta Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Ah, but that's the thing. My mod doesn't affect the Pro 30. The two cups are interchangeable. I can remove the T30 cups with the thumbscrews and snap the Pro 30 in place. That's great! I didn't know you'd done that. What did you use for the back grille? Is that "bin screen" again?
Smeggy Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 That's great! I didn't know you'd done that. What did you use for the back grille? Is that "bin screen" again? Heh, yes. Bin grille courtesy of Staples The pro 30 band, all I did was file off the end pieces to make the bottom flat, push the lock button in and drill through the top. The cups would stay on without the nuts as the clamps grip the thread. Worked out pretty well.
manaox2 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 I recieved my T50RP today and spent some quality time listening to them. I have some great contact cleaner, but I'm confused about the locking cord. I can twist to unlock the cord, but I thought it would be easily detachable once unlocked so that I could clean the contact there. Mine isn't so. EDIT: I took some pliers to it and got it. I know, if you have to force it, your probably not doing it right, but it had it coming.
mypasswordis Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 The locking connector should be able to come straight out. Mine was a bit hard to get out the first time and I had to wiggle it a bit before it came loose but now it comes out easily. No innuendo. Edit: Nice job on the innuendo, manaox.
Smeggy Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 No, mine didn't want to come out either. I resorted to pliers in the end. Oh, and congrats
Dusty Chalk Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 I've been sick all weekend, so nothing will be coming from this quarter any time soon.
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