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The Orthodynamic Thread


spritzer

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wualta, how did you remove your stock damping films? Mine are glued on very tight, I ended up just cutting the center holes out and might end up just cutting out the other holes if I can't figure out how to remove them.

I just peeled mine off. Who knows, they could be gluing them on better now. Just punch holes in 'em and tear off as much as you can. I wanted mine to be tidy for photographs, but for sound, who cares.

Smeggy seems about to annex the Sudetenland when he starts talking about the filthy schweinhundt plastic case Foistex fosted on us in the T50RP, but his point is well taken. A headphone cup shouldn't resonate like a violin. I don't personally think the T50RP's case is quite that bad, but it never hurts to track down resonances and... exterminate them... by using braces and mass-loaded damping materials like blu-tack.

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I don't personally think the T50RP's case is quite that bad, but it never hurts to track down resonances and... exterminate them... by using braces and mass-loaded damping materials like blu-tack.

I wasn't sure either until I replaced it... heavy damping/loading may do the trick. I thought I damped and loaded mine pretty well but apparently not as well as it might be.

I think the driver may well be the best ortho driver yet, for me anyways.

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I should install a roll bar on my T50RPv2 and take it for a ride. It's gonna handle so much better.

Or stuff it with blue-tak (still don't know the proper way to spell it) until it looks like the internal organs of a Smurf.

Or be really cheap and just use the roll of weatherstrip that's coming to both damp and make a bass lens. Probably what's going to end up happening.

Edit: And hold the driver in place. I'm so good at being cheap.

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A headphone cup shouldn't resonate like a violin.

Funnily enough, the owner of the violin shop I most frequent said he actually got rid of a wolf tone by placing a bit of putty underneath a wing (underneath the f hole) of the top plate of a violin because it was flapping around a bit too much. In powerful violins, there can actually be too much resonance.

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Funnily enough, the owner of the violin shop I most frequent said he actually got rid of a wolf tone by placing a bit of putty underneath a wing (underneath the f hole) of the top plate of a violin because it was flapping around a bit too much. In powerful violins, there can actually be too much resonance.

some people grind down the f-holes a bit to do the same thing... oh, stop the violence !!

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That's terrible, especially on priceless instruments like Strads.

The owner mentioned that story after I noticed a wolf tone on the G string of a Vuilliaume I was just trying for fun. He said he never bothered to try to fix the issue because it sounded so good.

usually an experienced tech can move the tone to a quarter-pitch, but I agree, why bother, who needs to play Tzigane or Vieuxtemps anyways...

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usually an experienced tech can move the tone to a quarter-pitch, but I agree, why bother, who needs to play Tzigane or Vieuxtemps anyways...

I'm sure if he bothered trying, he'd be able to. And you don't have to just play French music on a French violin.:D I need to learn Tzigane one of these days, but I feel like I should learn Zigeunerweisen first.

Do you play or are you just an avid classical music fan?

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Where would you ortho heads rank the modded T50rp in the ortholand?

Of those I've heard, I put it on top. Modded of course.

For me it beats:

T50v2 NAD

T40 Mk2

T30

Wharfedale Iso

Yam 2,1,100

Pro 30

All SFI variants I've made.

All the 'stats and electrets I've heard. (no 02)

Of course, this is all imo and I'm not the best modder so others may be getting much better results from theirs. For my ears and prefs the RP (driver) is amazing.

Hmm, asshole heads. Yeah, sounds about right :P

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Jeez I guess I'll pick up a pair :P

Which stats have you heard? I'd be impressed if it had higher resolution than an SR-Lambda or Koss ESP/950.

SR-Lambda

303

404

Nova Sig

003

SR-X 3

Gamma/Pro

Beyer ET1000

Koss ESP 7/9

No 950 or O2. I'm not much of a Lambda fan, too whispy and not solid enough for my prefs. The detail level is very good, I'm not sure it'd beat a good stat on that front. I'm not a detail listener so it's not something I focus on but it's pretty good.

Anyway, for $73 it's not meant as a competitor and in stock form it isn't. Modded though.... :o

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Guest sacd lover

I have two modded/ recabled Yamaha YH-1s, a modded/ recabled YH-3 and a modded / recabled HP-3. I think the stock Fostex T50RP is the best sounding of any of these stock. I cant wait to get my T50RP damped. The new Fostex already has a higher sensitivity, more dynamic punch and more bass quantity stock than the modded Yamahas do. The Yamahas are sounding seriously good too. But, you need an amp that can put out mucho power to get the Yamahas to sound their best.

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No wai!!

If I did that people would start wanting value for money, prompt service, good workmanship, repairs, warranty service and all that other balls. I can get away with all that as a shitty hobbyist :P

Smeggy, ever think of selling modded orthos? You could probably charge a hefty sum since it's wood and you're the first in the world to make a woody T50RP :D
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