Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

DSC_7698.JPG

DSC_7699.JPG

DSC_7700.JPG

DSC_7702.JPG

DSC_7703.JPG

DSC_7704.JPG

DSC_7707.JPG

Current production, used all the standard parts except the cups which suck ass and kill all their potential. I love these guys :ian::ian:

Edited by Smeggy
Posted

So I guess the cups still swivel with your fastening system? I'll want to get a closer look at what you've done there if you're up for that.

I may need to make one of these pretty soon. You're workmanship is first rate Smeg old boy!

Posted

Yeah, baffles are rock maple and profiled like the original in that they are dished to the outside an the pads snug into the curve. The driver hole is gently rounded into the driver.

They do still swivel as I put the bolt through the cap screw hole, added a washer and screwed a nut on it. It's not ideal but it works as long as you superglue the nut in place. I still have to cap the ends.

DSC_7709.JPG

DSC_7710.JPG

Man, how'd they get so hairy?!? I blame the cats :P

Posted

I want to order stuff to further mod my Fostexen. Where do I find bitumen and thick weatherstrip? I see something online that is 7/16" which might actually be enough. Also, I might just buy some Dynamat to use since it's shiny and a certain other person uses it when modding headphones. Gets pretty expensive, though.

Posted

Thanks.

I just got my fosterphones in the mail. I was going to laugh at how crappy dynamics sound but they don't work... the sound is intermittent to the point of making a blip ever few seconds I wiggle the wires. Also, the pads were glued on extremely tight, I hope I can remove them without ripping them. And then find some way of sticking them back on.

Edit: Whoops, they're supposed to stay on. They're connected to a plastic piece that comes off with a twist. No screws or anything after that, which sucks. Time to pry them open.

Posted

I opened up the plastic clamp to the rod adjustment and found there were two bullet casing-shaped pieces of metal in there to hold the rod in place while allowing it to slide. Horrible idea. It is nearly impossible to put them back in correctly without glue or something else to hold them in place. I just left them loose in the plastic casing when putting it back on after getting really frustrated. Why couldn't they just have screws to open up the cups so I could swap out the drivers in a few minutes?

Posted (edited)

they do that just be annoying to modders.

So, the latest mods that happened way, way too late last night was to replace the standard pads with the oversize Omega 1 pads and SR-X pad inside as another circum-supra. Extremely comfy now but a little bulkier. I think I may add some padding to the headband later as well, just to go completely overboard :)

Edited by Smeggy
Posted

Yeah, I'm going to glue those suckers down and screw them in later. Doesn't affect function and I figured out how to open the housing so.. impressions coming tomorrow.

Oh, nice, comfort is never to be overlooked when it comes to headphones.

Posted
Yeah, I'm going to glue those suckers down and screw them in later. Doesn't affect function and I figured out how to open the housing so.. impressions coming tomorrow.

Oh, nice, comfort is never to be overlooked when it comes to headphones.

Good, and yes, comfort should never be overlooked :cool:

Posted

Impressions: Needs moar driver coupling to the frame. The previous dynamic driver was secured into place using three washers screwed down next to the driver, but the SFI drivers are too small for that. I'm going to go for bigger washers since that's the easiest way. It'd be better if they were rubberized but I don't know if I can find any.

Posted

Well the T50RPs are in the house. Sonofabitch these things are hard to drive. The poor little Starving Student seems to be struggling. Sound so far is pretty stuffy and congested, I'll let them run this afternoon and hope things improve. Tonight I'll subject them to some abuse at the hands of the Menace and see what's what.

Posted

Yeah, but based on their specs they shouldn't be that hard to drive (98dB/mW, 50ohm).

Right now I'd swear the right channel is fading in and out periodically so it could be that I've just got a wonky pair. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.