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Posted

Yeah, it seems the bad rap on the current line was just the shit pads. Unsurprising given my pad experiences, they can easily make or break any ortho. Fostex made a poor choice that has now been rectified. Schweet!

Posted

It'll be fun finding out if their flavor status is justified or not. :D

Shit, if they're even half decent, $70 isn't bad, I paid that much for a YH-2 that everyone said sucks.

Posted
Spritzer, if you have any more spare I might need to take them off your hands later. ;D

I have a bunch of NIB (new in bag) SR-X pads and no headphones for them so feel free to drop me a line when you need them.

Posted
Yeah, it seems the bad rap on the current line was just the shit pads. Unsurprising given my pad experiences, they can easily make or break any ortho. Fostex made a poor choice that has now been rectified. Schweet!

That is very easy to believe. I discovered how critical the pads were to Ortho design early on with the first Donut build, and some though I was full of horse.gif I'm sure.

Now with the SFI drivers, and all the custom builds going on it's common knowledge.

My hobby fund is quite low ATM, I hope these don't go up in price before I can replinish the fund.

Posted

Ok boys and girls, my T50RP just arrived in the mail and srsly, these are indeed nice. Given they're about the same price as a SR 60 I say you really can't go far wrong here. They are very nice even from very mediocre sources unmodded. Should you get a set? Hell yeah, cheap and new and good and ortho all at once!

These are about as bargain basement as it gets price-wise but certainly not sound-wise. I still have to try them from a powerful amp and decent source but yeah, they are damn nice and damn cheap. What's not to love? A little modding and they'll be awesome.

Posted

That's great news! They're on my list.

So do you think Fostex may have gotten the idea from the HF thread? I mean who just decides to change pads after years of production?

Smeggy where did you purchase yours? I don't want to screw up and buy the old style.

Posted (edited)

You can get epoxy putty at many places like art supply shops and Lowes etc. They come in various sizes, single or two part. It's basically a putty-like substance which is a two part epoxy than you mash together and mold into whatever shape you want. They have different set times from 5 min to 20 hours. I prefer the 20 minute stuff from woodcraft. It comes as a stick with resin and hadner together in one. Cut a piece off and mush it until it's an even shade and apply.

Buy Quickwood Epoxy Putty, Neutral, 2 Ounces, Quikwood Epoxy Putty , Fillers -

I have the 5-min lowes stuff, the 20-min woodcraft stuff and the two tub 20 hour Apoxie Sculpt from Blick art supplies.

It's glue/filler/structure stuff alll in one. Really good shit you can sand, drill, file and build up. Sets like concrete. I've used it on numerous phones to build up various shapes like the ear wedge on the NAD RP18 which has a brown leather strip on it to hide the putty.

Edited by Smeggy
Posted
You can get epoxy putty at many places like art supply shops and Lowes etc. They come in various sizes, single or two part. It's basically a putty-like substance which is a two part epoxy than you mash together and mold into whatever shape you want. They have different set times from 5 min to 20 hours. I prefer the 20 minute stuff from woodcraft. It comes as a stick with resin and hadner together in one. Cut a piece off and mush it until it's an even shade and apply.

Buy Quickwood Epoxy Putty, Neutral, 2 Ounces, Quikwood Epoxy Putty , Fillers -

I have the 5-min lowes stuff, the 20-min woodcraft stuff and the two tub 20 hour Apoxie Sculpt from Blick art supplies.

It's glue/filler/structure stuff alll in one. Really good shit you can sand, drill, file and build up. Sets like concrete. I've used it on numerous phones to build up various shapes like the ear wedge on the NAD RP18 which has a brown leather strip on it to hide the putty.

Oh I know what you're talking about. I have some that's White with a Blue core.

The stuff I saw in the pic looked glossy like a caulk of some kind. Good tip though, thanks.

Posted
Oh I know what you're talking about. I have some that's White with a Blue core.

The stuff I saw in the pic looked glossy like a caulk of some kind. Good tip though, thanks.

Heh, that's the layer of the 'liquid nails' glue I spread over it.

Posted

So at this point, I'm probably never going to go back to dynamics. They just don't sound right anymore. My orthos cover my music that require a smaller intimate soundstage and more impact and my electrostats cover everything else, and I have a few more headphones that are coming in that ought to fill in whatever else. I've got portables down, too, so I'm set. The only headphone I'm interested in now is the Koss ESP950 (I refuse to pay more than that for headphones so no O2 or 4070). Once I obtain a pair, I'm done, folks. Done buying headphones, not done modding them.;)

Posted

Yep, orthos are more fun than you can shake a stick at. I'm now in the process of fully molesting the new RP... I knew I couldn't last long without really going at it so I went out and got some nice Kingwood and hacked the crap out of it >:D

Posted

Looks like it's going to happen sooner rather than later.>:D That sounds great. Be careful with the magnets, I assume they are more powerful since they're neodymium.

My T50RPv2 is doing nicely after some burn-in. I agree that it does not require much more damping of the driver, but does also need damping of the frame itself. Both the bass and treble are nicely extended. Bass could use a bit more, though.

Posted

Scratch all that, the T50RP (driver) is the fucking tits!

Stuck in a new housing that doesn't cripple the driver these are the best phones I've ever heard.

Posted
Scratch all that, the T50RP (driver) is the fucking tits!

Stuck in a new housing that doesn't cripple the driver these are the best phones I've ever heard.

:blink::useless:

Are they the current production T50RP (whatever V or mk they are)?

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