aerius Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 Nice work! Question: have you considered mounting the bias LEDs such that they can be seen through the top panel? It looks like it would be a bit of a pain to do, but it would give a visual indication that input tubes are up & running with the bias current flowing through them. Something similar could also be done for the B+ supply, when all the LEDs light up you know the amp is good to go, and if something doesn't light up you know where to start looking for the problem.
tyrion Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 That would make it easier for me Nate.
n_maher Posted November 11, 2009 Author Report Posted November 11, 2009 Nice work! Thanks! Question: have you considered mounting the bias LEDs such that they can be seen through the top panel? It looks like it would be a bit of a pain to do, but it would give a visual indication that input tubes are up & running with the bias current flowing through them. Something similar could also be done for the B+ supply, when all the LEDs light up you know the amp is good to go, and if something doesn't light up you know where to start looking for the problem. Actually yes, I had given that some thought and it wouldn't be hard to do with the two existing LEDs. What I had considered doing was drilling an LED sized hole in the terminal board and just poking the LED through that way. Since I have a ring of holes around the base of each tube for ventilation I'm pretty sure you'd be able to see the LEDs light. In the end in the interest of time and actually not wanting any sort of "tube illumination" I abandoned that concept. Question though, how would you propose to tap an LED off of B+?
aerius Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 Question though, how would you propose to tap an LED off of B+? In my case I stuck a 150k resistor in series with the LED and wired the whole thing between B+ and ground. Adjust the value of the LED to get the current and LED brightness you want, and also keep in mind that you might need multiple resistors depending on the B+ voltage in your amp so that you don't exceed the voltage spec on the resistors.
cetoole Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 Or if you decide to use a resistor string off B+ to bias your heaters, you can just put an LED in series with that. Damn, now that's a thought. I will see about asking them to send one to Florida. Assuming, you know, I havnt bought one before then.
aerius Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 ...Adjust the value of the LED to get the current and LED brightness you want... Had a brainfart, that should say adjust the value of the resistor. cetoole's solution is the neater one, it whacks all the problems at once. If you're doing the heater bias, you already have the resistors in place for the LED.
Dusty Chalk Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 It's not even for sale (yet).You know, instead of selling it to your broker, why don't you just sell it directly to someone who will appreciate it?
tyrion Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 You know, instead of selling it to your broker, why don't you just sell it directly to someone who will appreciate it? My way, I can enjoy it and then someone else can.
penger Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 So are there perks to being a return customer, Mr. Broker?
n_maher Posted November 11, 2009 Author Report Posted November 11, 2009 So are there perks to being a return customer, Mr. Broker? He pays more each time?
tyrion Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 So are there perks to being a return customer, Mr. Broker? You get the same fast and courteous treatment.
swt61 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 (edited) But does Nate sing the "Have it your way" song? BTW Mike, Have you considered a pit crew for audio gear? A complete system change in under 13 seconds would be perfect for you. Edited November 11, 2009 by swt61
Dusty Chalk Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 I've got two words for you, Mike: doppler effect.
Voltron Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 Audez'e LCD2. You know you want them, Mike. Damn, now that's a thought. IF YOU BUY THESE YOU BUY COPY FROM BAD PEOPLE WHO STEAL! [/feifei]
tyrion Posted November 11, 2009 Report Posted November 11, 2009 IF YOU BUY THESE YOU BUY COPY FROM BAD PEOPLE WHO STEAL! [/feifei] YES BUT I GET BETTER HEADPHONE FROM BAD PEOPLE AND THEY MAKE MUSICAL LOVE TO MY EARS LONG TIME.
darthsilverice Posted November 12, 2009 Report Posted November 12, 2009 Very nice and inspiring work!
n_maher Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Posted November 12, 2009 Thanks guys. Ari and I will be working on her a bit this weekend to see if we can tweak some of the buzz out of the output. It's pretty ok with even low impedance open headphones but not with closed cans. We've got a pretty good idea where to start so I'm hopeful she can be made to have an acceptably black background. These types of things are to be expected with PTP builds so I'm not surprised.
penger Posted November 13, 2009 Report Posted November 13, 2009 Isn't the non-Lite one now owned by tkam? What I now want to see is the one that's gonna have all them 307's.
n_maher Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Posted November 13, 2009 The 307A based MenaceTC is slated to start construction some time in December and god-willing be fully burned-in in time for CanJam. I've acquired the lion's share of parts for that beast but the layout is about 10x as complex as the "Lite" version so it's going to take a lot of planning.
cetoole Posted November 18, 2009 Report Posted November 18, 2009 I got to hear the Lite this past weekend, and it only served to increase expectations for the 307A MenaceTC.
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