Headfive or soha?

[fatman711]

I'm debating which amp I should get. Right now, I have a home based Pimeta. I would like something warmer though. Which of these amps should I get? I only use Grado headphones (sr225 and sr100)

thanks

[gtp]

I'm debating which amp I should get. Right now, I have a home based Pimeta. I would like something warmer though. Which of these amps should I get? I only use Grado headphones (sr225 and sr100)

thanks

Get both. Sell the one you don't prefer. That is the only way.

[grawk]

I love my m3 with grados.

[Pars]

I'm debating which amp I should get. Right now, I have a home based Pimeta. I would like something warmer though. Which of these amps should I get? I only use Grado headphones (sr225 and sr100)

thanks

Ya know, you could do some opamp rolling and maybe even do something with the buffers on your Pimeta before you just roll over and buy a new amp... like maybe an OPA2107 on the L/R, something decent on the ground, look into doing some discrete buffers? BUF634s don't sound very good to my ears, and discretes that cost all of about $5 in parts to build (assuming you can etch your own boards) absolutely kick their silicon asses. Just a thought...

[fatman711]

I would probably sell my Pimeta after I get the headfive. If I get it that is.

This is what is in the pimeta. MisterX built it.

Analog Devices 8620 opamp, Left & Right channels (socketed)

Analog Devices 8610 opamp, ground channel (socketed)

1 BUF634 output buffer per channel. (socketed)

4 Nichicon 1000uf 30v power supply capacitors

Hand matched Vishay/Dale 1% metal film resistors

JFET Cascode class A bias

Silver Cardas wiring and output jacks

Neutrik 1/4" locking input jack

Alps "Blue Velvet" 50k potentiometer

Kilo international knob

Mountain mini toggle switch (front mounted)

2.1 mm DC power jack

[Pars]

MisterX is a good builder (somehow thought this might have been DIY...)

The AD8620/8610 are typically rather bright and sterile sounding. Between that and the BUFs, there is alot of room to play in terms of the sound of these. The rest of the parts are pretty standard for Pimeta builds, other than maybe the Cardas wiring, which probably makes no difference in sound. If you don't DIY, it may be a moot point however.

[fatman711]

so what opamps should I get? Do I have to change the output buffer as well?

How do I change these things? Do I just pop open the amp, pull the opamps out and plug in the new ones?

thanks

[Pars]

I already gave one suggestion (re. opamps). And buffers. Of course you can just stick with the buffers you have. I wouldn't, but that's me. Research on head-fi.

As for changing the opamps, AD8620/8610 only come as SOIC-8 (SMD). I don't know whether MisterX socketed these using BrownDog adapters, or soldered them right on the board (Tangent's stuff like the Pimeta would accommodate SOICs on the bottom of the board). If they are socketed DIP-8 form factor, if you choose DIP-8 replacements you can pop the old ones out and the new ones in.

So, you will have to take a look at it to see. And then make the determination whether you want to mess with it or not. And then, if so, do the research. If not, buy a different amp.

[hYdrociTy]

ditch the 8620/10 and replace with opa2134/134 then put more buffers (2 each channel) in then use nichicon muse kz for the four electrolytic caps then take out the wimas and alps pot which are both grainy like a shell off a beach and replace with hovland musicaps and get a stepped pot from ebay for like 28 bucks and bam your pimeta is now fuller sounding and all the grain is gone.

[dc]

based on the above description the opamps and buffers are socketed, so rolling should be simple

the suggested OPA2134/134 would warm the sound up nicely and are easy as hell to do. the cap/pot replacement is a little trickier.

[Mister X]

Pft, I spit on the OPA2134.

The idea is to make the amp sound better with Grados not worse.

(Slow, muddy, with a compressed sound stage and grainy treble is not better).

And the actual specs are:

2 BUF634 output buffers per signal channel, 1 on the ground channel (socketed)

4 Nichicon 1000uf 35v UPW power supply capacitors

Vishay/Dale RN55D 1% metal film resistors (matched to .1%)

Cardas CTFA RCA jacks

Neutrik 1/4" locking headphone jack

Alps "Blue Velvet" 50k potentiometer

2.5 mm DC power jack

[gtp]

I agree with Pars. Try out an OPA2107 for L/R and (possibly) OPA227 for G. That should warm things up a bit.

From experience: the Headfive will not be better than your Pimeta.

If you are really itching for something new, sell me your Pimeta .

[guzziguy]

I agree with Pars. Try out an OPA2107 for L/R and (possibly) OPA227 for G. That should warm things up a bit.

From experience: the Headfive will not be better than your Pimeta.

If you are really itching for something new, sell me your Pimeta .

The Headfive is warmish, but I agree with gtp that it probably won't be better than your Pimeta. As I see it, the main reason to go to the Headfive in your case would be to get crossfeed. If you don't really want that, it's probably a lateral move. Of course, it's best if you can actually compare them and decide for yourself.

[n_maher]

If I'm not mistaken the Headfive circuit and the PIMETA are actually pretty similar.

[gtp]

If I'm not mistaken the Headfive circuit and the PIMETA are actually pretty similar.

Indeed, the Headfive is basically a two-channel Pimeta w/PS and crossfeed in a pretty Shanling box. (Someone correct me if the HeadFive actually has active ground.)